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Main
Date: 03 Nov 2007 21:27:31
From: Artemisia
Subject: New to SPD Pedals
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So Widdershins has SPD pedals, which means that I finally brought my
Specialized BG Comp shoes into operation.
I'm mystfied by some of the instructions. The cleats have a side that
has a recessed oval area and an M on the bottom square section. The flip
side is serrated, and less recessed. Which side is Up? I realized that I
had put one on each side and that both were getting into the pedals, but
the right foot, with the serrated side, was harder to clip and unclip
than the left. So now I have the M side up on both feet. Is that right?
Also, there are four bolt holes on the bottom of the shoe but only two
bolt holes on the cleats. So do I bolt them on the top two holes or the
bottom two?
I'm slowly getting the hang of it but those things are infernal to
master. And I hate the horrible, slippery crunch on the concrete floor
of the garage. One of the bolts fell out this morning. It was a hopeless
task to find it. But the old cleaning lady came, and started,
pathetically, going over the floor of a corner of the underground
parking (two stories about 50 meters long) with a broom and pan. She
said the syndicate kept saying they'd give her a vacuum but never did.
Anyway, there in her broom pan was - the bolt. Looks like Spica and
Arcturus were already active.
At least I'm on a trike. It boggles my mind that anyone has ever
survived these things on a two wheeler!
EFR
Ile de France
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Date: 13 Nov 2007 04:47:41
From:
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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On Nov 3, 3:27 pm, Artemisia <nos...@free.fr > wrote:
> So Widdershins has SPD pedals, which means that I finally brought my
> Specialized BG Comp shoes into operation.
>
> I'm mystfied by some of the instructions. The cleats have a side that
> has a recessed oval area and an M on the bottom square section. The flip
> side is serrated, and less recessed. Which side is Up? I realized that I
> had put one on each side and that both were getting into the pedals, but
> the right foot, with the serrated side, was harder to clip and unclip
> than the left. So now I have the M side up on both feet. Is that right?
>
> Also, there are four bolt holes on the bottom of the shoe but only two
> bolt holes on the cleats. So do I bolt them on the top two holes or the
> bottom two?
>
> I'm slowly getting the hang of it but those things are infernal to
> master. And I hate the horrible, slippery crunch on the concrete floor
> of the garage. One of the bolts fell out this morning. It was a hopeless
> task to find it. But the old cleaning lady came, and started,
> pathetically, going over the floor of a corner of the underground
> parking (two stories about 50 meters long) with a broom and pan. She
> said the syndicate kept saying they'd give her a vacuum but never did.
> Anyway, there in her broom pan was - the bolt. Looks like Spica and
> Arcturus were already active.
>
> At least I'm on a trike. It boggles my mind that anyone has ever
> survived these things on a two wheeler!
>
> EFR
> Ile de France
the best advice i have for that, is to loosen the tension on the
pedal. get familiar with the system but having the pedals and shoes
very loose. as you get comfortable get it tighter. i only have my
tension at 50% since i rather be able to get my shoes off quickly. it
is much better than falling
carlos
www.bikingthings.com
Get Faster, Enjoy Cycling, Get Fit, Live Better.
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Date: 04 Nov 2007 14:34:13
From: Duncan Smith
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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On Nov 4, 1:30 pm, Paul Boyd <use...@abcd.invalid > wrote:
> On 04/11/2007 12:21, Duncan Smith said,
>
> > there's no metal in the sole that causes cold feet
> > when it's freezing,
>
> A couple of layers of duct tape inside the shoe (under the insole) seems
> to cure any problems along those lines, including water ingress.
>
> --
> Paul Boydhttp://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/
Will give that a go. Had some partial success with Shoe Goo before,
but never got a fully good seal for long.
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Date: 04 Nov 2007 13:42:42
From: Peter Clinch
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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Artemisia wrote:
> I'm slowly getting the hang of it but those things are infernal to
> master.
IMHO Time ATACs are a lot easier. You've got a line, rather than a
point, to clip in, and there's no faffing about with tension
adjustment. They also seem to suffer less from cleat wear
affecting the release.
> One of the bolts fell out this morning. It was a hopeless
> task to find it.
As others have poited out, this is a Bad Thing. I have found that
an aide to getting them in properly is lightly grease the threads
before screwing them in. It sounds counter intuitive that greasing
the threads should help stop them falling out, but it does work
(for me...), and I think it's because they go *in* better in the
first place. You want them done up as tight as you can reasonably
get them, as it will prevent the cleat from moving.
> At least I'm on a trike. It boggles my mind that anyone has ever
> survived these things on a two wheeler!
Damn site easier than balancing a unicycle, and loads of folk can
do that with a bit of practice. A bit of practice and you're
there, and it beats running over your own legs and feet when you stop.
Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
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Date: 04 Nov 2007 17:47:55
From: Simon Brooke
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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in message <5p60i4FpdrjiU1@mid.individual.net >, Peter Clinch
('p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk') wrote:
> Artemisia wrote:
>
>> I'm slowly getting the hang of it but those things are infernal to
>> master.
>
> IMHO Time ATACs are a lot easier. You've got a line, rather than a
> point, to clip in, and there's no faffing about with tension
> adjustment. They also seem to suffer less from cleat wear
> affecting the release.
Agree, but she's bought SPDs now, and frankly on the trike neither clipping
in nor unclipping involve the sort of anxieties which they can on two
wheels. If it takes her a bit longer, in and out, the trike won't fall
over. Also, the other downside of SPDs, that they're not very good at
clearing mud, shouldn't affect her at all.
--
simon@jasmine.org.uk (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
((DoctorWho)ChristopherEccleston).act();
uk.co.bbc.TypecastException: actor does not want to be typecast.
[adapted from autofile on /., 31/03/05]
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Date: 04 Nov 2007 14:14:01
From: Pete Biggs
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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Peter Clinch wrote:
> Artemisia wrote:
>> One of the bolts fell out this morning. It was a hopeless
>> task to find it.
>
> As others have poited out, this is a Bad Thing. I have found that
> an aide to getting them in properly is lightly grease the threads
> before screwing them in. It sounds counter intuitive that greasing
> the threads should help stop them falling out, but it does work
> (for me...), and I think it's because they go *in* better in the
> first place. You want them done up as tight as you can reasonably
> get them, as it will prevent the cleat from moving.
Works for me too. A greased bolt can be done up more tightly than a dry
one. Compression in the threads stops it unscrewing; you don't have to
worry about low friction.
The only time grease should not be used with bolts is when you are not able
to tighten them much for any reason. (I've never found this to be the case
with cleat bolts). Otherwise, saturate the threads with grease, and grease
the underside of the heads as well. Any excess will just squeeze out.
Grease also helps to prevent seizure. Copper antiseize can be used if
you're particularly worried about this. It's luby enough to help get the
bolts tight as well.
~PB
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Date: 05 Nov 2007 11:18:52
From: Rob Morley
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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In article <5p62efFptqtcU1@mid.individual.net >, Pete Biggs
p@pomegranateremovehighlyimpracticalfruitbiggs.tc says...
> The only time grease should not be used with bolts is when you are not able
> to tighten them much for any reason.
If a fastening torque is specified dry but you use a lubricant you risk
stretching or stripping the thread.
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Date: 05 Nov 2007 16:56:32
From: Pete Biggs
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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Rob Morley wrote:
>> The only time grease should not be used with bolts is when you are
>> not able to tighten them much for any reason.
>
> If a fastening torque is specified dry but you use a lubricant you
> risk stretching or stripping the thread.
Use less torque then (if you believe the specified dry torque is the real
limit).
~PB
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Date: 05 Nov 2007 17:00:32
From: Pete Biggs
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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I wrote:
> Rob Morley wrote:
>
>>> The only time grease should not be used with bolts is when you are
>>> not able to tighten them much for any reason.
>>
>> If a fastening torque is specified dry but you use a lubricant you
>> risk stretching or stripping the thread.
>
> Use less torque then (if you believe the specified dry torque is the
> real limit).
Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
~PB
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Date: 05 Nov 2007 17:32:03
From: Rob Morley
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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In article <5p90hjFpq2l1U1@mid.individual.net >, Pete Biggs
p@pomegranateremovehighlyimpracticalfruitbiggs.tc says...
> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
>
I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you need to
on cars though.
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Date: 05 Nov 2007 20:18:53
From: Andrew Price
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com >
wrote:
>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
>
>I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you need to
>on cars though.
Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
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Date: 06 Nov 2007 02:21:20
From: Rob Morley
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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In article <s3rui3hvlv763m8m52r0m3q6kooc8sipuh@4ax.com >, Andrew Price
ajprice@free.fr says...
> On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
> wrote:
>
> >> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
> >
> >I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you need to
> >on cars though.
>
> Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
>
You know that big nut on the end of a Mini drive shaft ...
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Date: 06 Nov 2007 06:33:37
From: Tom Sherman
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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Rob Morley wrote:
> In article <s3rui3hvlv763m8m52r0m3q6kooc8sipuh@4ax.com>, Andrew Price
> ajprice@free.fr says...
>> On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
>>> I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you need to
>>> on cars though.
>> Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
>>
> You know that big nut on the end of a Mini drive shaft ...
The biggest nut on a (real) Mini is the one holding the steering wheel. ;)
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
Tradition is the worst rational for action.
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Date: 11 Nov 2007 13:21:41
From: Al C-F
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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Tom Sherman wrote:
> Rob Morley wrote:
>> In article <s3rui3hvlv763m8m52r0m3q6kooc8sipuh@4ax.com>, Andrew Price
>> ajprice@free.fr says...
>>> On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
>>>> I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you
>>>> need to on cars though.
>>> Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
>>>
>> You know that big nut on the end of a Mini drive shaft ...
>
> The biggest nut on a (real) Mini is the one holding the steering wheel. ;)
>
3/4 Whitworth, if I remember correctly. Just a bit bigger than a 1 1/4 AF.
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Date: 06 Nov 2007 12:46:52
From: Rob Morley
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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In article <fgpmv2$8um$1@registered.motzarella.org >, Tom Sherman
sunsetss0003@REMOVETHISyahoo.com says...
> Rob Morley wrote:
> > In article <s3rui3hvlv763m8m52r0m3q6kooc8sipuh@4ax.com>, Andrew Price
> > ajprice@free.fr says...
> >> On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
> >>> I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you need to
> >>> on cars though.
> >> Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
> >>
> > You know that big nut on the end of a Mini drive shaft ...
>
> The biggest nut on a (real) Mini is the one holding the steering wheel. ;)
>
The one that nobody (apart from s few diehards) has the right socket
for, so they always have chisel marks on them. :-)
I think the biggest Mini nut these days is the one that pays inflated
prices for old wrecks. The best Mini I ever had cost 85 quid (about
1990) something similar these days seems to fetch 500 plus. :-(
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Date: 06 Nov 2007 13:14:14
From: marc
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
|
Rob Morley wrote:
> In article <fgpmv2$8um$1@registered.motzarella.org>, Tom Sherman
> sunsetss0003@REMOVETHISyahoo.com says...
>> Rob Morley wrote:
>>> In article <s3rui3hvlv763m8m52r0m3q6kooc8sipuh@4ax.com>, Andrew Price
>>> ajprice@free.fr says...
>>>> On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
>>>>> I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you need to
>>>>> on cars though.
>>>> Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
>>>>
>>> You know that big nut on the end of a Mini drive shaft ...
>> The biggest nut on a (real) Mini is the one holding the steering wheel. ;)
>>
>
> The one that nobody (apart from s few diehards) has the right socket
> for, so they always have chisel marks on them. :-)
1 3/4 anyone?
As i remember they come from the factory with "chunks" in them to
enable them to be chiseled off?
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Date: 06 Nov 2007 13:22:41
From: Rob Morley
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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In article <DOidncP_u4Ml9a3anZ2dnUVZ8sfinZ2d@bt.com >, marc
initial.surname@btinternet.com says...
> Rob Morley wrote:
> > In article <fgpmv2$8um$1@registered.motzarella.org>, Tom Sherman
> > sunsetss0003@REMOVETHISyahoo.com says...
> >> Rob Morley wrote:
> >>> In article <s3rui3hvlv763m8m52r0m3q6kooc8sipuh@4ax.com>, Andrew Price
> >>> ajprice@free.fr says...
> >>>> On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
> >>>>> I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you need to
> >>>>> on cars though.
> >>>> Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
> >>>>
> >>> You know that big nut on the end of a Mini drive shaft ...
> >> The biggest nut on a (real) Mini is the one holding the steering wheel. ;)
> >>
> >
> > The one that nobody (apart from s few diehards) has the right socket
> > for, so they always have chisel marks on them. :-)
>
> 1 3/4 anyone?
1 1/2 I think. There's a 1 13/16 in my toolbox too - is that for
balljoints?
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Date: 06 Nov 2007 14:23:49
From: marc
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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Rob Morley wrote:
> In article <DOidncP_u4Ml9a3anZ2dnUVZ8sfinZ2d@bt.com>, marc
> initial.surname@btinternet.com says...
>> Rob Morley wrote:
>>> In article <fgpmv2$8um$1@registered.motzarella.org>, Tom Sherman
>>> sunsetss0003@REMOVETHISyahoo.com says...
>>>> Rob Morley wrote:
>>>>> In article <s3rui3hvlv763m8m52r0m3q6kooc8sipuh@4ax.com>, Andrew Price
>>>>> ajprice@free.fr says...
>>>>>> On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
>>>>>>> I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you need to
>>>>>>> on cars though.
>>>>>> Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
>>>>>>
>>>>> You know that big nut on the end of a Mini drive shaft ...
>>>> The biggest nut on a (real) Mini is the one holding the steering wheel. ;)
>>>>
>>> The one that nobody (apart from s few diehards) has the right socket
>>> for, so they always have chisel marks on them. :-)
>> 1 3/4 anyone?
>
> 1 1/2 I think. There's a 1 13/16 in my toolbox too - is that for
> balljoints?
I doubt it, I don't think you can get a socket over the ball joint.
I have a BIG spanner here with hardened points for hitting I think that
was the balljoint persuader
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Date: 07 Nov 2007 05:24:06
From: Rob Morley
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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In article <FJadnXL9HqWb5K3anZ2dnUVZ8sbinZ2d@bt.com >, marc
initial.surname@btinternet.com says...
> Rob Morley wrote:
> > 1 1/2 I think. There's a 1 13/16 in my toolbox too - is that for
> > balljoints?
>
> I doubt it, I don't think you can get a socket over the ball joint.
>
It has to be deep. I just dug a shiny new balljoint out of a big box of
bits (amazing that I remembered I had one, let alone being able to find
it) and it is indeed 1 13/16.
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Date: 06 Nov 2007 12:42:49
From: marc
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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Tom Sherman wrote:
> Rob Morley wrote:
>> In article <s3rui3hvlv763m8m52r0m3q6kooc8sipuh@4ax.com>, Andrew Price
>> ajprice@free.fr says...
>>> On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
>>>> I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you
>>>> need to on cars though.
>>> Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
>>>
>> You know that big nut on the end of a Mini drive shaft ...
>
> The biggest nut on a (real) Mini is the one holding the steering wheel. ;)
>
and the majority of the rest are 7/8ths or 5/16ths. The largest ( aprt
from the driver is the one securing the clutch release lever! How sad is
that , that I still know these things?
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Date: 06 Nov 2007 20:37:34
From: Tom Sherman
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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marc wrote:
> Tom Sherman wrote:
>> Rob Morley wrote:
>>> In article <s3rui3hvlv763m8m52r0m3q6kooc8sipuh@4ax.com>, Andrew Price
>>> ajprice@free.fr says...
>>>> On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
>>>>> I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you
>>>>> need to on cars though.
>>>> Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
>>>>
>>> You know that big nut on the end of a Mini drive shaft ...
>>
>> The biggest nut on a (real) Mini is the one holding the steering
>> wheel. ;)
>>
>
>
> and the majority of the rest are 7/8ths or 5/16ths. The largest ( aprt
> from the driver is the one securing the clutch release lever! How sad is
> that , that I still know these things?
Did they ever go partially metric on the Mini, like my 1975 MG Midget?
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
Tradition is the worst rational for action.
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Date: 06 Nov 2007 12:52:19
From: Clive George
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
|
"marc" <initial.surname@btinternet.com > wrote in message
news:VIKdnRJ278fH_K3anZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@bt.com...
> and the majority of the rest are 7/8ths or 5/16ths. The largest ( aprt
> from the driver is the one securing the clutch release lever! How sad is
> that , that I still know these things?
I remember 1/2 and 9/16 being the most common in the engine area. (actually
that was on a metro, but the engine is pretty much the same)
cheers,
clive
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Date: 05 Nov 2007 19:33:17
From: Phil Cook
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
|
Andrew Price wrote:
>On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:32:03 -0000, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com>
>wrote:
>
>>> Or don't use a torque wrench and go by what feels right.
>>
>>I hardly ever use a torque wrench on bikes - there are times you need to
>>on cars though.
>
>Indeed - after "real tight" comes "real loose" ...
It goes something like this:
Pretty Tight
Real Tight
Real Damn Tight
%@!$! Tight
Stripped
See http://sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html
--
Phil Cook looking north over the park to the "Westminster Gasworks"
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Date: 05 Nov 2007 21:07:50
From: Pete Biggs
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
|
Phil Cook wrote:
> It goes something like this:
>
> Pretty Tight
> Real Tight
> Real Damn Tight
> %@!$! Tight
> Stripped
Or with aluminium threads:
Pretty Tight
Oh $#!%
~PB
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Date: 04 Nov 2007 12:21:11
From: Duncan Smith
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
|
>
> Make sure the pedal tension is set to minimum until you are used to
> getting in and out of the pedals. It feels strange at first but you'll
> quickly get used to them and then you'll wonder how you managed without
> them.
>
SPDs are great, but there is an alternative. This year I've been
trying out these Power-Grips in readiness for the winter
http://powergrips.mrpbike.com/pg_benefits.shtml . They're dead simple
and really effective - the big plus is you can use any shoe or hiking
boot - so unlike any SPD shoes I've ever tried they can be totally
water-proof and there's no metal in the sole that causes cold feet
when it's freezing, and plenty of room for layers of woolen socks!
I might get another pair for the MTB, because their even easier to
release than SPDs
Duncan
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Date: 04 Nov 2007 13:30:02
From: Paul Boyd
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
|
On 04/11/2007 12:21, Duncan Smith said,
> there's no metal in the sole that causes cold feet
> when it's freezing,
A couple of layers of duct tape inside the shoe (under the insole) seems
to cure any problems along those lines, including water ingress.
--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/
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Date: 04 Nov 2007 09:51:43
From: Colin
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
|
On Sat, 03 Nov 2007 21:28:06 +0000, Tony Raven wrote:
>
> Make sure the pedal tension is set to minimum until you are used to
> getting in and out of the pedals. It feels strange at first but you'll
> quickly get used to them and then you'll wonder how you managed without
> them.
>
As a trike rider myself I'd advise against this. What with the cross beam
of the trike lurking in wait to do nasty things to your lower leg should
you have an unintended unclipping at speed, I'd suggest running the pedal
tension fairly tight. Because it's a trike, you don't actually need to
unclip at stops, until such time as you want to get off and walk, so the
main reason for for loose tension (being able to easily unclip at stops to
prevent pratfalls while you get used to spds) doesn't apply.
--
Colin
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Date: 04 Nov 2007 13:38:17
From: Pete Biggs
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
|
Colin wrote:
> On Sat, 03 Nov 2007 21:28:06 +0000, Tony Raven wrote:
>>
>> Make sure the pedal tension is set to minimum until you are used to
>> getting in and out of the pedals. It feels strange at first but
>> you'll quickly get used to them and then you'll wonder how you
>> managed without them.
>>
> As a trike rider myself I'd advise against this. What with the cross
> beam of the trike lurking in wait to do nasty things to your lower
> leg should you have an unintended unclipping at speed, I'd suggest
> running the pedal tension fairly tight. Because it's a trike, you
> don't actually need to unclip at stops, until such time as you want
> to get off and walk, so the main reason for for loose tension (being
> able to easily unclip at stops to prevent pratfalls while you get
> used to spds) doesn't apply.
Low tension also (hopefully) helps you to automaticaly unclip in a crash as
yourself or the bike rotates. On a trike, is it better to stay connected
until you've finished crashing?
~PB, never accidentally unclipped from Shimano SPDs and Looks set at
near-minimum.
Only times I have accidenatlly unclipped was with FPD (sic) pedals with
worn-out cleats - and that was when spinning fast.
~PB
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Date: 03 Nov 2007 23:34:13
From: Simon Brooke
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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in message <472cd9ab$0$3110$426a34cc@news.free.fr >, Artemisia
('nospam@free.fr') wrote:
> So Widdershins has SPD pedals, which means that I finally brought my
> Specialized BG Comp shoes into operation.
>
> I'm mystfied by some of the instructions. The cleats have a side that
> has a recessed oval area and an M on the bottom square section. The flip
> side is serrated, and less recessed.
Serrated side towards the shoe.
> Also, there are four bolt holes on the bottom of the shoe but only two
> bolt holes on the cleats. So do I bolt them on the top two holes or the
> bottom two?
Whichever pair provides a comfortable position for you.
> I'm slowly getting the hang of it but those things are infernal to
> master. And I hate the horrible, slippery crunch on the concrete floor
> of the garage. One of the bolts fell out this morning.
Loose bolts are a real problem, because if the cleats slip on your shoes it
becomes nearly impossible to unclip. So do them up very tight - this is
one of the things I would suggest using locktite for.
Let us know how you're getting on with the trike.
--
simon@jasmine.org.uk (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
;; Perl ... is the Brittney Spears of programming - easily accessible
;; but, in the final analysis, empty of any significant thought
;; Frank Adrian on Slashdot, 21st July 2003
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Date: 03 Nov 2007 21:59:18
From: Alan Braggins
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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In article <472cd9ab$0$3110$426a34cc@news.free.fr >, Artemisia wrote:
>So Widdershins has SPD pedals, which means that I finally brought my
>Specialized BG Comp shoes into operation.
>
>I'm mystfied by some of the instructions. The cleats have a side that
>has a recessed oval area and an M on the bottom square section. The flip
>side is serrated, and less recessed. Which side is Up? I realized that I
>had put one on each side and that both were getting into the pedals, but
>the right foot, with the serrated side, was harder to clip and unclip
>than the left. So now I have the M side up on both feet. Is that right?
Serrated side up, gripping the sole of the shoe. (The "M" is probably
for "multi-way", meaning those cleats release if you move your heel
in or out.)
There should be a sort of twin washer thing that fits in the recess.
If you don't have one, that may be why your bolt fell out. But I'm
surprised you can clip the cleats into the pedals if the cleat isn't
the right way up, and that you can get out once clipped in if it isn't
done up tight.
>Also, there are four bolt holes on the bottom of the shoe but only two
>bolt holes on the cleats. So do I bolt them on the top two holes or the
>bottom two?
Whichever is more comfortable for you. The two sets of holes are just to
allow more range of adjustment of how far forwards/back you want your pedal
relative to your foot, at least on the shoes I've used/seen.
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Date: 03 Nov 2007 22:16:23
From: Martin Dann
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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Alan Braggins wrote:
>
> There should be a sort of twin washer thing that fits in the recess.
> If you don't have one, that may be why your bolt fell out. But I'm
> surprised you can clip the cleats into the pedals if the cleat isn't
> the right way up, and that you can get out once clipped in if it isn't
> done up tight.
If the cleat is the wrong way up, it is very difficult to get it into
the pedal, and will ping out with the slightest tap.
Martin.
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Date: 03 Nov 2007 21:28:51
From: Kristian M Zoerhoff
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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On 2007-11-03, Artemisia <nospam@free.fr > wrote:
>
> I'm mystfied by some of the instructions. The cleats have a side that
> has a recessed oval area and an M on the bottom square section. The flip
> side is serrated, and less recessed. Which side is Up?
The serrated side should bite into the sole of the shoe.
> Also, there are four bolt holes on the bottom of the shoe but only two
> bolt holes on the cleats. So do I bolt them on the top two holes or the
> bottom two?
Whichever pair makes for the correct cleat position. Remember that you
generally want the ball of the foot centered on the pedal.
> I'm slowly getting the hang of it but those things are infernal to
> master. And I hate the horrible, slippery crunch on the concrete floor
> of the garage.
I guess this is where I brag about my Shimano M075's, with their recessed
cleats that only rub on textured concrete, and even then not always.
However, you at least won't fall over at a stop light.
--
__o Kristian Zoerhoff
_'\(,_ kristian.zoerhoff@gmail.com
(_)/ (_)
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Date: 03 Nov 2007 21:28:06
From: Tony Raven
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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In article <472cd9ab$0$3110$426a34cc@news.free.fr >, nospam@free.fr
says...
> So Widdershins has SPD pedals, which means that I finally brought my
> Specialized BG Comp shoes into operation.
>
> I'm mystfied by some of the instructions. The cleats have a side that
> has a recessed oval area and an M on the bottom square section. The flip
> side is serrated, and less recessed. Which side is Up? I realized that I
> had put one on each side and that both were getting into the pedals, but
> the right foot, with the serrated side, was harder to clip and unclip
> than the left. So now I have the M side up on both feet. Is that right?
The serrated side should be against the shoe with the bolt heads in the
recessed area.
>
> Also, there are four bolt holes on the bottom of the shoe but only two
> bolt holes on the cleats. So do I bolt them on the top two holes or the
> bottom two?
That is to allow some adjustment back and forwards to go with the
adjustment allowed by the oval bolt holes. You want the cleat to be
under the ball of your foot so try both and see which pair feels best
for pedalling.
>
> I'm slowly getting the hang of it but those things are infernal to
> master. And I hate the horrible, slippery crunch on the concrete floor
> of the garage. One of the bolts fell out this morning.
You need to do the bolts up really tight to stop that. It may also be
that if you had one cleat upside down the bolts were not long enough to
tighten it properly.
Don't worry about the crunch - the soles of your shoes will be in
contact with the floor but bits of grit sticking up will hit the cleat
metal making the crunch sound.
>
> At least I'm on a trike. It boggles my mind that anyone has ever
> survived these things on a two wheeler!
Make sure the pedal tension is set to minimum until you are used to
getting in and out of the pedals. It feels strange at first but you'll
quickly get used to them and then you'll wonder how you managed without
them.
--
Tony
" I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
Bertrand Russell
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Date: 03 Nov 2007 22:42:10
From: Leo Lichtman
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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"Tony Raven" wrote: (clip) Make sure the pedal tension is set to minimum
until you are used to getting in and out of the pedals. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's good advice, but one warning: As you back the tension off, be sure
not to overdo it. The adjusting screw could come all the way out, and I am
told it is almost impossible to restart it.
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Date: 03 Nov 2007 16:59:43
From: Roger Zoul
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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"Artemisia" <nospam@free.fr > wrote in message
news:472cd9ab$0$3110$426a34cc@news.free.fr...
> So Widdershins has SPD pedals, which means that I finally brought my
> Specialized BG Comp shoes into operation.
>
> I'm mystfied by some of the instructions. The cleats have a side that has
> a recessed oval area and an M on the bottom square section. The flip side
> is serrated, and less recessed. Which side is Up? I realized that I had
> put one on each side and that both were getting into the pedals, but the
> right foot, with the serrated side, was harder to clip and unclip than the
> left. So now I have the M side up on both feet. Is that right?
>
> Also, there are four bolt holes on the bottom of the shoe but only two
> bolt holes on the cleats. So do I bolt them on the top two holes or the
> bottom two?
>
> I'm slowly getting the hang of it but those things are infernal to master.
> And I hate the horrible, slippery crunch on the concrete floor of the
> garage. One of the bolts fell out this morning. It was a hopeless task to
> find it. But the old cleaning lady came, and started, pathetically, going
> over the floor of a corner of the underground parking (two stories about
> 50 meters long) with a broom and pan. She said the syndicate kept saying
> they'd give her a vacuum but never did. Anyway, there in her broom pan
> was - the bolt. Looks like Spica and Arcturus were already active.
>
> At least I'm on a trike. It boggles my mind that anyone has ever survived
> these things on a two wheeler!
>
I think you need a visit to a local bike shop. Or, do you know a friend who
rides and uses SPDs?
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Date: 03 Nov 2007 13:44:12
From: Zoot Katz
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
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On Sat, 03 Nov 2007 21:27:31 +0100, Artemisia <nospam@free.fr > wrote,
in part, of clipless pedals:
> One of the bolts fell out this morning.
That's bad.
They must be tight or you'll be unable to release your foot. The
cleat will twist in the shoe rather than twisting out of the pedal.
After the cleat position is adjusted to your liking you'll want to
put in the bolts _really_ tight and check them again during a ride.
Nail polish works if you don't have Loctite for the bolt threads.
--
zk
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Date: 03 Nov 2007 20:38:26
From: Tim Dunne
Subject: Re: New to SPD Pedals
|
"Artemisia" <nospam@free.fr > wrote in message
news:472cd9ab$0$3110$426a34cc@news.free.fr
> At least I'm on a trike. It boggles my mind that anyone has ever
> survived these things on a two wheeler!
Send them back, they're clearly too complicated.
Tim
--
Sent from Birmingham, UK... Check out www.nervouscyclist.org
'I find sometimes it's easy to be myself, but sometimes I find it's
better to be somebody else.' - Dave Matthews 'So Much To Say'
My 'reply to' address is valid, mail to the posting address is dumped
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