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Date: 24 Oct 2006 16:11:33
From: Ron McKinnon
Subject: Split rim
Well this is a first for me.

On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
of truing is going to fix this:
http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg

Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
22000 km of road use on it.

I don't recall hitting any big bumps lately. I patched a flat last
Thursday but the rim seemed fine then.

Oh well, time for a new wheel. Pity it couldn't have lasted another
month though. I would have had all winter to make a new one. Now I'll
have to rush to get those last few weeks of riding in.

Cheers.
Ron.





 
Date: 30 Oct 2006 16:52:15
From: Tom Keats
Subject: Re: Split rim
In article <1162166232.140145.277250@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com >,
"Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman" <sunsetss0003@yahoo.com > writes:

> Have you ever done bicycle maintenance with a small domestic feline as
> an assistant?

Not lately, but I have performed many concentration demanding
tasks with feline "help".

I think when a human in intently working on something, cats
perceive a sort of "beam of attention" emanating from the
human's eyes, onto the object of immediate interest. Cats
figure if they get into that beam, they'll share some of
(or hog all of) that lovely attention. The tips of their
tails are transducers which pick up additional attention
by direct contact with the source.

If their assistance is not required, they can sometimes
be distracted with something else of interest to them --
like a nice, expensive, wicker peacock chair on which
to whet their claws.


cheers,
Tom

--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca


 
Date: 30 Oct 2006 04:31:41
From: Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman
Subject: Re: Split rim

* * Chas wrote:
> "Zoot Katz" <zootkatz@operamail.com> wrote in message
> news:cgcbk2trra0nr51vatoo7uilkcie0mnemu@4ax.com...
> > On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:26:02 -0000, Mike Latondresse
> > <mikelat@no_spam_dccnet.com> wrote:
> <snip>
> > I found that the original Mathauser "Kool Stop" pads worked better
> > and lasted far longer than the Kool-Stop Salmon pads of today.
> >
>
> I agree. The old Mathauser pads with the finned alloy backs had a nice
> soft compound that lasted a long time. I liked Mafac pads because the
> squeal got people's attention! ;-)
>
> > Rim wear is just something we have to expect, accept and monitor.
>
> Never had any rim problems with 22-23mm wide Super Champion & Rigida
> 700c Rims. I'm still riding 3 different sets of these rims that are over
> 20 years old.

However, don't you [Chas] ride mostly in the arid SW US?

--
Tom Sherman - Here, not there.



  
Date: 30 Oct 2006 09:35:14
From: * * Chas
Subject: Re: Split rim

"Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman" <sunsetss0003@yahoo.com > wrote in
message news:1162211501.775279.15930@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> * * Chas wrote:
> > "Zoot Katz" <zootkatz@operamail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cgcbk2trra0nr51vatoo7uilkcie0mnemu@4ax.com...
> > > On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:26:02 -0000, Mike Latondresse
> > > <mikelat@no_spam_dccnet.com> wrote:
> > <snip>
> > > I found that the original Mathauser "Kool Stop" pads worked better
> > > and lasted far longer than the Kool-Stop Salmon pads of today.
> > >
> >
> > I agree. The old Mathauser pads with the finned alloy backs had a
nice
> > soft compound that lasted a long time. I liked Mafac pads because
the
> > squeal got people's attention! ;-)
> >
> > > Rim wear is just something we have to expect, accept and monitor.
> >
> > Never had any rim problems with 22-23mm wide Super Champion & Rigida
> > 700c Rims. I'm still riding 3 different sets of these rims that are
over
> > 20 years old.
>
> However, don't you [Chas] ride mostly in the arid SW US?
>
> --
> Tom Sherman - Here, not there.
>

Nope, that's where I did my most intense cycling, up to 200 miles a week
for 8 years. July and August was the rainy season with frequent thunder
storms. The lowest point in the state of New Mexico is 3900' the highest
over 13,000'. We had snow in December and January plus we could get some
snow in the mountains 6 months out of the year. I had several Clement
Neve sewup snow tires that I used for riding in the winter. I limited my
snow riding to slushy snow where the tires could actually contact the
pavement. Riding on hard packed snow or ice was more that I wanted to
deal with.

There's a lot of water sources in the mountains of Northern New Mexico
and Colorado where we did most of our off road riding. Lots of crossing
small streams and springs, lots of mud.

I've been living in Northern California since 1980. Our rainy season
goes from October to April. It rarely rain outside of those months. I
also spent time in Oregon, Washington and BC where rain is the norm.

Spent a week in 'Blighty in June of 1988. I loved the place except that
it rained or was overcast almost everyday.

Chas.






 
Date: 29 Oct 2006 15:57:12
From: Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman
Subject: Re: Split rim

Tom Keats wrote:
> ...
> Regreasing hub and BB bearings is no big deal. As long
> as no klutz comes into your workshop and accidentally
> kicks away the bearing balls as they lie drying on a rag
> on the floor. A wire-mesh tea ball keeps 'em together....

Have you ever done bicycle maintenance with a small domestic feline as
an assistant?

--
Tom Sherman - Here, not there.



  
Date: 30 Oct 2006 00:03:01
From: Zoot Katz
Subject: Re: Split rim
On 29 Oct 2006 15:57:12 -0800, "Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman"
<sunsetss0003@yahoo.com > wrote:

>Have you ever done bicycle maintenance with a small domestic feline as
>an assistant?

Mine doesn't like the smell of the cleaning products I use but he
thinks it's playtime when I'm replacing cables. Most of the time I
just have to put up with his snoring from atop the box of brakes.
--
zk


 
Date: 29 Oct 2006 13:16:00
From: Tom Keats
Subject: Re: Split rim
In article <1162151601.730296.287530@f16g2000cwb.googlegroups.com >,
"Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman" <sunsetss0003@yahoo.com > writes:
>
> Mike Latondresse wrote:
>> tkeats2005@hotmail.com (Tom Keats) wrote in
>> news:oth1ie.bqj.ln@vcn.bc.ca:
>>
>> >
>> > Here is what I've learned:
>> >
>> > 1) Soft pads + (fairly) frequent replacement + maintenance &
>> > cleaning trumps everything, hands-down.
>> >
>> > Screw trying to buy one's self out of doing a little real work.
>> >
>> I use the cheap black Norco 6-to-a-card ones that work out to less than
>> $2 each, however I have erasers that are harder and the black goop they
>> create is amazing. Kool-stop Salmon arn't worth a damn in the wet.
>
> If I were commuting regularly in the rain, I would get a SRAM S7 hub
> with I-brake for the back, a hub brake compatible dynamo hub for the
> front and a full chain case.

If someone donated a Rohloff SpeedHub to me, I'd be ever so grateful.

Old fashioned centre-pull canti brakes w/ threadless-post brakepads
are cheap to maintain, fairly easy to adjust (although there's a
bit of a knack,) and easy to find parts for.

One doesn't have to spend big money to buy one's self out of
dealing with riding in the rain.

> I would then (if possible) have the hubs
> modified for grease injection.

In his book, John Forester favours hubs set up for oiling,
as per the venerable 3-speed Raleighs. But that's so sloppy.
Oil flings around all over the place too much.

Regreasing hub and BB bearings is no big deal. As long
as no klutz comes into your workshop and accidentally
kicks away the bearing balls as they lie drying on a rag
on the floor. A wire-mesh tea ball keeps 'em together.

> (A bottom bracket and headset with
> grease injection would also be chosen if available).

A front fender goes a long way toward protecting
headset (crown) bearings from the elements and
upshoot of rainwater from the front tire.

> I am too lazy to want to deal with excessive regular maintenance.

I'm too cheap not to deal with regular maintenance.
I don't consider two or three times a year excessive.


cheers,
Tom

--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca


 
Date: 29 Oct 2006 11:53:21
From: Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman
Subject: Re: Split rim

Mike Latondresse wrote:
> tkeats2005@hotmail.com (Tom Keats) wrote in
> news:oth1ie.bqj.ln@vcn.bc.ca:
>
> >
> > Here is what I've learned:
> >
> > 1) Soft pads + (fairly) frequent replacement + maintenance &
> > cleaning trumps everything, hands-down.
> >
> > Screw trying to buy one's self out of doing a little real work.
> >
> I use the cheap black Norco 6-to-a-card ones that work out to less than
> $2 each, however I have erasers that are harder and the black goop they
> create is amazing. Kool-stop Salmon arn't worth a damn in the wet.

If I were commuting regularly in the rain, I would get a SRAM S7 hub
with I-brake for the back, a hub brake compatible dynamo hub for the
front and a full chain case. I would then (if possible) have the hubs
modified for grease injection. (A bottom bracket and headset with
grease injection would also be chosen if available).

I am too lazy to want to deal with excessive regular maintenance.

--
Tom Sherman - Here, not there.



 
Date: 28 Oct 2006 23:32:24
From: Tom Keats
Subject: Re: Split rim
In article <1162100432.691815.209930@f16g2000cwb.googlegroups.com >,
"Hank Wirtz" <hank@wirtznet.net > writes:

> Tom Keats wrote:
>
>> Y'know what? Those Kool-Stop Salmon pads everybody raves about might
>> stop ya a li'l quicker, but they're Living Hell on rims.
>
> No, they're not. The compound is designed to not allow embedding of
> debris, to prevent rim wear. In practice, they usually have a slightly
> LONGER braking distance when wet, but don't ruin your rim.

All brake pads are prone to ruin rims, because they all eventually
pick-up & store particles and pieces that'll grind your rims down.

Y'know, as a PNW resident myself, I've used all kinds of brake pads,
and killed a number of rims, and have learned from experience.

Here is what I've learned:

1) Soft pads + (fairly) frequent replacement + maintenance &
cleaning trumps everything, hands-down.

Screw trying to buy one's self out of doing a little real work.

2) Pads that don't allow (so much) embedding of debris, are
hard. Too hard, in the wet. And they glaze too quickly.
And when they glaze, they cause additional wear & tear.

3) A darning needle is a good brake pad cleaning tool that'll
save your rims from much wear & tear. Sometimes a li'l bit
of sandpaper will get rid of surface glaze. But @ $2 for
a pair of brake pads, why bother?

As I said, I'm a PNW (Vancouver, BC) resident. I know all about
riding in the rain, and keeping my bikes working.
Soft pads plus about the same care one gives when regularly
brushing one's teeth, works.

Just keep your braking surfaces clean & clear, and the
rain-soaked world is yer Oysters Rockerfeller.

Grippy brake pads are better than slippery, hardened,
glazed ones.


cheers,
Tom



--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca


  
Date: 01 Nov 2006 23:11:30
From: Patrick Lamb
Subject: Re: Split rim
On Sat, 28 Oct 2006 23:32:24 -0700, tkeats2005@hotmail.com (Tom Keats)
wrote:
>In article <1162100432.691815.209930@f16g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
> "Hank Wirtz" <hank@wirtznet.net> writes:
>> Tom Keats wrote:
>>> Y'know what? Those Kool-Stop Salmon pads everybody raves about might
>>> stop ya a li'l quicker, but they're Living Hell on rims.
>>
>> No, they're not. The compound is designed to not allow embedding of
>> debris, to prevent rim wear. In practice, they usually have a slightly
>> LONGER braking distance when wet, but don't ruin your rim.
>
>All brake pads are prone to ruin rims, because they all eventually
>pick-up & store particles and pieces that'll grind your rims down.
>
>1) Soft pads + (fairly) frequent replacement + maintenance &
> cleaning trumps everything, hands-down.
>
> Screw trying to buy one's self out of doing a little real work.

I've only rarely had any problems stopping with Koolstops in the wet,
but I've had all kinds of problems with embedded grit in Shimano and
generic black pads. How often do you have to inspect and clean these
black pads to keep them from chewing up your rims?

Pat

Email address works as is.


  
Date: 29 Oct 2006 19:26:02
From: Mike Latondresse
Subject: Re: Split rim
tkeats2005@hotmail.com (Tom Keats) wrote in
news:oth1ie.bqj.ln@vcn.bc.ca:

>
> Here is what I've learned:
>
> 1) Soft pads + (fairly) frequent replacement + maintenance &
> cleaning trumps everything, hands-down.
>
> Screw trying to buy one's self out of doing a little real work.
>
I use the cheap black Norco 6-to-a-card ones that work out to less than
$2 each, however I have erasers that are harder and the black goop they
create is amazing. Kool-stop Salmon arn't worth a damn in the wet.


   
Date: 30 Oct 2006 00:17:20
From: Zoot Katz
Subject: Re: Split rim
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:26:02 -0000, Mike Latondresse
<mikelat@no_spam_dccnet.com > wrote:

>tkeats2005@hotmail.com (Tom Keats) wrote in
>news:oth1ie.bqj.ln@vcn.bc.ca:
>
>>
>> Here is what I've learned:
>>
>> 1) Soft pads + (fairly) frequent replacement + maintenance &
>> cleaning trumps everything, hands-down.
>>
>> Screw trying to buy one's self out of doing a little real work.
>>
>I use the cheap black Norco 6-to-a-card ones that work out to less than
>$2 each, however I have erasers that are harder and the black goop they
>create is amazing. Kool-stop Salmon arn't worth a damn in the wet.

I found that the original Mathauser "Kool Stop" pads worked better
and lasted far longer than the Kool-Stop Salmon pads of today.

I've since switched over to the $2.00 per pair MEC generic black pads
and though they wear fast they've not caused any problems.

Rim wear is just something we have to expect, accept and monitor.

Tomorrow I'm trading a belt for a pair of Sachs internal brake hubs
laced into 26" Weinmann rims.
--
zk


    
Date: 30 Oct 2006 01:48:31
From: * * Chas
Subject: Re: Split rim

"Zoot Katz" <zootkatz@operamail.com > wrote in message
news:cgcbk2trra0nr51vatoo7uilkcie0mnemu@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:26:02 -0000, Mike Latondresse
> <mikelat@no_spam_dccnet.com> wrote:
<snip >
> I found that the original Mathauser "Kool Stop" pads worked better
> and lasted far longer than the Kool-Stop Salmon pads of today.
>

I agree. The old Mathauser pads with the finned alloy backs had a nice
soft compound that lasted a long time. I liked Mafac pads because the
squeal got people's attention! ;-)

> Rim wear is just something we have to expect, accept and monitor.

Never had any rim problems with 22-23mm wide Super Champion & Rigida
700c Rims. I'm still riding 3 different sets of these rims that are over
20 years old.

Chas.




  
Date: 29 Oct 2006 01:58:21
From: * * Chas
Subject: Re: Split rim

"Tom Keats" <tkeats2005@hotmail.com > wrote in message
news:oth1ie.bqj.ln@vcn.bc.ca...
> In article <1162100432.691815.209930@f16g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
> "Hank Wirtz" <hank@wirtznet.net> writes:
>
> > Tom Keats wrote:
> >
> >> Y'know what? Those Kool-Stop Salmon pads everybody raves about
might
> >> stop ya a li'l quicker, but they're Living Hell on rims.
> >
> > No, they're not. The compound is designed to not allow embedding of
> > debris, to prevent rim wear. In practice, they usually have a
slightly
> > LONGER braking distance when wet, but don't ruin your rim.
>
> All brake pads are prone to ruin rims, because they all eventually
> pick-up & store particles and pieces that'll grind your rims down.
>
> Y'know, as a PNW resident myself, I've used all kinds of brake pads,
> and killed a number of rims, and have learned from experience.
>
> Here is what I've learned:
>
> 1) Soft pads + (fairly) frequent replacement + maintenance &
> cleaning trumps everything, hands-down.
>
> Screw trying to buy one's self out of doing a little real work.
>
> 2) Pads that don't allow (so much) embedding of debris, are
> hard. Too hard, in the wet. And they glaze too quickly.
> And when they glaze, they cause additional wear & tear.
>
> 3) A darning needle is a good brake pad cleaning tool that'll
> save your rims from much wear & tear. Sometimes a li'l bit
> of sandpaper will get rid of surface glaze. But @ $2 for
> a pair of brake pads, why bother?
>
> As I said, I'm a PNW (Vancouver, BC) resident. I know all about
> riding in the rain, and keeping my bikes working.
> Soft pads plus about the same care one gives when regularly
> brushing one's teeth, works.
>
> Just keep your braking surfaces clean & clear, and the
> rain-soaked world is yer Oysters Rockerfeller.
>
> Grippy brake pads are better than slippery, hardened,
> glazed ones.
>
>
> cheers,
> Tom

I haven't found any "modern" brake pads that I like as well as the old
Wienmman black X-Block pads from the 1970's. I used to use them in Campy
brakes and other brands. They worked well wet or dry and rarely picked
up any metal from the rims. I have a set in some old Wienmman Carrera
side pull brakes on one of my retro bikes and they still work like new.

The second best pads for me were fresh Mafac rubber blocks.When new they
were nice and grabby wet or dry and if kept toed in they didn't squeal
much.

I have a NOS set of Shimano DuraAce brakes on a retro bike that I
recently built. The pads are terrible. They're hard and pick up aluminum
from the rims. I've been riding them to see if they get any better but
so far they haven't improved.

Chas.






 
Date: 28 Oct 2006 22:40:32
From: Hank Wirtz
Subject: Re: Split rim

Tom Keats wrote:

> Y'know what? Those Kool-Stop Salmon pads everybody raves about might
> stop ya a li'l quicker, but they're Living Hell on rims.

No, they're not. The compound is designed to not allow embedding of
debris, to prevent rim wear. In practice, they usually have a slightly
LONGER braking distance when wet, but don't ruin your rim.



 
Date: 28 Oct 2006 21:39:12
From: Tom Keats
Subject: Re: Split rim
In article <pmo414-gh5.ln1@curare.zuvembi.homelinux.org >,
Dane Buson <dane@unseen.edu > writes:
> In rec.bicycles.misc Claire Petersky <cpetersky@mouse-potato.com> wrote:
>>
>> Like this?
>>
>> http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/rim2.JPG
>
> Oooh, nasty. Which reminds me, I need to get a spring caliper or
> something so I can measure how much braking track I have left. My front
> wheel is starting to look really concave along there.

I don't think there's an hand tool that'll definitely tell you
whether or not a rim is good to continue to use, or to toss it.
Of course, hand tools are nice to have. Especially dial/vernier
calipers/dividers.

I figure if there's a feel-able and visible "lip" + a certain degree
of striation on the rim, it's time to replace it.

>> you commute in the PNW in the rain.
>
>:-/ Pretty much. 4000 miles does seem like a really short lifespan
> though. I've gotten about 8000 from my Alex Adventurer so far. I
> already have another identical rim to swap onto the wheel when the time
> comes.

I think a lot of PNW rim lifetime depends on brake pad replacement.

Y'know what? Those Kool-Stop Salmon pads everybody raves about might
stop ya a li'l quicker, but they're Living Hell on rims.

I'm using generic $2.oo soft pads (non-threaded-post cantis).
I replace 'em when they get a little glazed & noisy, and I keep
my rims & brakes generally clean.

So far it's workin' good for me.

Sometimes more expensive components ain't no substitute for
hands-on maintenance.

Sometimes more expensive components ain't no substitute
for anything.


cheers,
Tom

--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca


 
Date: 27 Oct 2006 08:45:44
From: Ron McKinnon
Subject: Re: Split rim
Patrick Lamb wrote:
> Was this a typo? 22,000 km (14,000 or so miles) sounds like it's time
> for an honorable rim retirement. If, as some have read it, it was
> only 2,200 km, that seems awfully low to me.
>
> Pat
>

No, no typo. By contrast, my racing bike (the busted rim was on my
touring bike) which gets mostly fair-weather riding shows no
appreciable signs of wear at the rims.



  
Date: 27 Oct 2006 12:01:47
From: Pat Lamb
Subject: Re: Split rim
Ron McKinnon wrote:
> Patrick Lamb wrote:
>> Was this a typo? 22,000 km (14,000 or so miles) sounds like it's time
>> for an honorable rim retirement. If, as some have read it, it was
>> only 2,200 km, that seems awfully low to me.
>>
>> Pat
>>
>
> No, no typo. By contrast, my racing bike (the busted rim was on my
> touring bike) which gets mostly fair-weather riding shows no
> appreciable signs of wear at the rims.

Assuming this touring bike sees a fair bit of use in wet weather, and
you've had to brake in that wet weather, I think you've just plain worn
it out. But you've probably got your money's worth from it!

Pat


 
Date: 26 Oct 2006 20:22:31
From: Patrick Lamb
Subject: Re: Split rim
On 24 Oct 2006 16:11:33 -0700, "Ron McKinnon"
<ratofsumatra@hotmail.com > wrote:
>
>On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
>of truing is going to fix this:
>http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
>Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
>22000 km of road use on it.

Was this a typo? 22,000 km (14,000 or so miles) sounds like it's time
for an honorable rim retirement. If, as some have read it, it was
only 2,200 km, that seems awfully low to me.

Pat

Email address works as is.


  
Date: 26 Oct 2006 19:37:48
From:
Subject: Re: Split rim
On Thu, 26 Oct 2006 20:22:31 -0500, Patrick Lamb
<pdl678NOSPAM@comcast.net > wrote:

>On 24 Oct 2006 16:11:33 -0700, "Ron McKinnon"
><ratofsumatra@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
>> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
>>of truing is going to fix this:
>>http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>>
>>Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
>>22000 km of road use on it.
>
>Was this a typo? 22,000 km (14,000 or so miles) sounds like it's time
>for an honorable rim retirement. If, as some have read it, it was
>only 2,200 km, that seems awfully low to me.
>
>Pat
>
>Email address works as is.

Dear Pat,

Rim life can vary considerably according to conditions.

My daily 15-mile ride involves almost no braking, so I've never worn
out a rim in over 100,000 miles.

I'm pretty sure that most posters are like you and brake far more
often and in far worse conditions, so your rims lead lives that are
nasty, brutish, and short.

Some posters have mentioned wearing out rims in what seems awfully low
to you (and flabbergasting to me). Here's a link to a post from a
fellow who wore out a rim in two 6-7 month seasons of Maine mtb
riding, 2-3 rides per week, 2-3 hours per ride:

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/de7fd7b0c6dd27f3

His figures work out to 200 to 550 hours of mtb riding, which is
getting down near the 2,200 km figure that we both find startling, but
I gather that severe braking in muddy conditions can do such terrible
things to rims.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel


 
Date: 25 Oct 2006 22:56:54
From: Chalo
Subject: Re: Split rim
Ron McKinnon wrote:
>
> http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
> 22000 km of road use on it.

That was a common failure for Mavic 261 rims, even with much lower
mileage. They were made from unusually brittle alloy and had unusually
thin sidewalls.

Chalo



 
Date: 25 Oct 2006 21:48:07
From: JeffWills
Subject: Re: Split rim

jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
> http://home.pacifier.com/~jwills/rites2005/pages/rites042.htm
>
> > The sidewall looks pretty concave. It was time for a new rim anyway.
>
> Before you throw the rim in the aluminum recycle bin, how about sawing
> a 2-3 inch section out of it where it didn't break, sand paper the
> ends smooth and show us a picture with a metal ruler in the
> foreground... or measure the wall thickness at cross section where the
> sidewall failure occurred, but a picture just the same.

Sorry, Jobst- next time I'll remember.

Jeff



 
Date: 25 Oct 2006 20:20:59
From: JeffWills
Subject: Re: Split rim

Ron McKinnon wrote:
> Well this is a first for me.
>
> On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
> of truing is going to fix this:
> http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
> 22000 km of road use on it.
>

Yep. Mine let go with a bang:
http://home.pacifier.com/~jwills/rites2005/pages/rites042.htm

The sidewall looks pretty concave. It was time for a new rim anyway.

Jeff



  
Date: 26 Oct 2006 03:42:03
From:
Subject: Re: Split rim
Jeff Wills writes:

>> Well this is a first for me.

>> On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the
>> rim. I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but
>> no amount of truing is going to fix this:

http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg

>> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with
>> maybe 22000 km of road use on it.

> Yep. Mine let go with a bang:

http://home.pacifier.com/~jwills/rites2005/pages/rites042.htm

> The sidewall looks pretty concave. It was time for a new rim anyway.

Before you throw the rim in the aluminum recycle bin, how about sawing
a 2-3 inch section out of it where it didn't break, sand paper the
ends smooth and show us a picture with a metal ruler in the
foreground... or measure the wall thickness at cross section where the
sidewall failure occurred, but a picture just the same.

Jobst Brandt


   
Date: 25 Oct 2006 22:09:48
From: Bill Bushnell
Subject: Re: Split rim
In article <45402e8b$0$34561$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net >,
jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
> Before you throw the rim in the aluminum recycle bin, how about sawing
> a 2-3 inch section out of it where it didn't break, sand paper the
> ends smooth and show us a picture with a metal ruler in the
> foreground... or measure the wall thickness at cross section where the
> sidewall failure occurred, but a picture just the same.

Perhaps something like this: http://tinyurl.com/wtvqa

This rim didn't fail, but I decided I had gotten my money's worth from
it and didn't relish the prospect of a sudden failure on the road. A
post-mortem showed that the wall at its thinnest was about 0.5 mm thick.

--
Bill Bushnell
http://pobox.com/~bushnell/


    
Date: 26 Oct 2006 05:58:45
From:
Subject: Re: Split rim
Bill Bushnell writes:

>> Before you throw the rim in the aluminum recycle bin, how about
>> sawing a 2-3 inch section out of it where it didn't break, sand
>> paper the ends smooth and show us a picture with a metal ruler in
>> the foreground... or measure the wall thickness at cross section
>> where the sidewall failure occurred, but a picture just the same.

> Perhaps something like this:

http://tinyurl.com/wtvqa

> This rim didn't fail, but I decided I had gotten my money's worth
> from it and didn't relish the prospect of a sudden failure on the
> road. A postmortem showed that the wall at its thinnest was about
> 0.5 mm thick.

Next time sand the ends smooth so that the wall thickness is readily
visible. I have rims like that and measured the bead-to-bead width
and found it to be unchanged from a new rim. I also was down to 0.5mm
but no failure.

Jobst Brandt


 
Date: 25 Oct 2006 17:11:22
From: Ron McKinnon
Subject: Re: Split rim
peter wrote:
>
> Doesn't look like the result of an impact, but rather just wearing out
> due to the braking surface becoming too thin. Does the braking surface
> have a distinct concave feel to it indicating that the surface has been
> worn down by the brake pads? Here's a picture of a rim I recently
> replaced since I was no longer comfortable with the thickness of the
> rim sidewall. Note the gap between the rim sidewall and the hex wrench
> held up against it:
> http://home.comcast.net/~prathman/RimWear.jpg
>

I think you're probably right. In the past my rims needed replacing
prior to the edge wearing due to other factors such as warping. This
was a solidly-build wheel that lasted longer, and hence it probably
wore through as you said.

Thanks everyone for the info. I'll keep a closer eye on wear from now
on.



 
Date: 25 Oct 2006 14:17:02
From: Claire Petersky
Subject: Re: Split rim
"Ron McKinnon" <ratofsumatra@hotmail.com > wrote in message
news:1161731492.750001.308930@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
> Well this is a first for me.
>
> On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
> of truing is going to fix this:
> http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
> 22000 km of road use on it.

Like this?

http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/rim2.JPG

That was with a Mavic MA3, "A high quality and affordable classic rim",
after about 4000 miles on it. Everyone on RBT said this is what happens when
you commute in the PNW in the rain.




--
Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
http://www.bicyclemeditations.org/
See the books I've set free at: http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky




  
Date: 25 Oct 2006 11:58:01
From: Dane Buson
Subject: Re: Split rim
In rec.bicycles.misc Claire Petersky <cpetersky@mouse-potato.com > wrote:
>
> Like this?
>
> http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/rim2.JPG

Oooh, nasty. Which reminds me, I need to get a spring caliper or
something so I can measure how much braking track I have left. My front
wheel is starting to look really concave along there.

> That was with a Mavic MA3, "A high quality and affordable classic rim",
> after about 4000 miles on it. Everyone on RBT said this is what happens when
> you commute in the PNW in the rain.

:-/ Pretty much. 4000 miles does seem like a really short lifespan
though. I've gotten about 8000 from my Alex Adventurer so far. I
already have another identical rim to swap onto the wheel when the time
comes.

I've considered moving to a front disc brake setup, but I'd have to get
a new dynohub wheel built with the disc version of my hub, in addition
to the brake and fork, which seems like too much hassle to me.

--
Dane Buson - sigdane@unixbigots.org
"I didn't know it was impossible when I did it."


  
Date: 25 Oct 2006 17:37:48
From: Mike Jacoubowsky
Subject: Re: Split rim
> http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/rim2.JPG
>
> That was with a Mavic MA3, "A high quality and affordable classic rim",
> after about 4000 miles on it. Everyone on RBT said this is what happens
> when you commute in the PNW in the rain.

"Everyone" is right.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Claire Petersky" <cpetersky@mouse-potato.com > wrote in message
news:ylK%g.16257$o71.3560@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> "Ron McKinnon" <ratofsumatra@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1161731492.750001.308930@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
>> Well this is a first for me.
>>
>> On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
>> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
>> of truing is going to fix this:
>> http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>>
>> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
>> 22000 km of road use on it.
>
> Like this?
>
> http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/rim2.JPG
>
> That was with a Mavic MA3, "A high quality and affordable classic rim",
> after about 4000 miles on it. Everyone on RBT said this is what happens
> when you commute in the PNW in the rain.
>
>
>
>
> --
> Warm Regards,
>
> Claire Petersky
> http://www.bicyclemeditations.org/
> See the books I've set free at: http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky
>




 
Date: 25 Oct 2006 06:09:13
From: Qui si parla Campagnolo
Subject: Re: Split rim

Ron McKinnon wrote:
> Well this is a first for me.
>
> On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
> of truing is going to fix this:
> http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
> 22000 km of road use on it.

Sure, brakes made rim sidewall so thin, tire pressure made it split-
>
> I don't recall hitting any big bumps lately. I patched a flat last
> Thursday but the rim seemed fine then.
>
> Oh well, time for a new wheel. Pity it couldn't have lasted another
> month though. I would have had all winter to make a new one. Now I'll
> have to rush to get those last few weeks of riding in.
>
> Cheers.
> Ron.



 
Date: 25 Oct 2006 04:32:21
From: Werehatrack
Subject: Re: Split rim
On 24 Oct 2006 16:11:33 -0700, "Ron McKinnon"
<ratofsumatra@hotmail.com > wrote:

>Well this is a first for me.
>
>On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
>of truing is going to fix this:
>http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
>Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
>22000 km of road use on it.
>
>I don't recall hitting any big bumps lately. I patched a flat last
>Thursday but the rim seemed fine then.

Not being able to see the outside wall of the rim, it's just a guess,
but I would expect this to be an indication that the braking surfaces
are so worn that the rim needed to be replaced anyway. IMO, that's
the single biggest drawback of the aluminum rim with conventional
brakes; it wears out.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.


 
Date: 24 Oct 2006 18:28:10
From: peter
Subject: Re: Split rim
Ron McKinnon wrote:
> Well this is a first for me.
>
> On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
> of truing is going to fix this:
> http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
> 22000 km of road use on it.
>
> I don't recall hitting any big bumps lately. I patched a flat last
> Thursday but the rim seemed fine then.

Doesn't look like the result of an impact, but rather just wearing out
due to the braking surface becoming too thin. Does the braking surface
have a distinct concave feel to it indicating that the surface has been
worn down by the brake pads? Here's a picture of a rim I recently
replaced since I was no longer comfortable with the thickness of the
rim sidewall. Note the gap between the rim sidewall and the hex wrench
held up against it:
http://home.comcast.net/~prathman/RimWear.jpg

That rim had about five times the mileage of yours, but the critical
factor is the amount of braking that's been done, especially in wet
conditions where abrasive particles get between the pads and the rim
sidewall surface.



 
Date: 24 Oct 2006 20:21:16
From: Peter Cole
Subject: Re: Split rim
Ron McKinnon wrote:
> Well this is a first for me.
>
> On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
> of truing is going to fix this:
> http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
> 22000 km of road use on it.
>
> I don't recall hitting any big bumps lately. I patched a flat last
> Thursday but the rim seemed fine then.
>
> Oh well, time for a new wheel. Pity it couldn't have lasted another
> month though. I would have had all winter to make a new one. Now I'll
> have to rush to get those last few weeks of riding in.
>
> Cheers.
> Ron.
>

You're lucky -- you made it home -- in one piece... Seriously, if you
put enough miles on a bike in the rain the rims will eventually fail
(2200km isn't a surprisingly short amount). You want to check old rims
periodically because they can fail in a much less benign manner. If you
lay a straightedge along the brake track (radial direction) you can see
how concave the sidewall is, which give you some idea of how worn they
are. Typical rim walls are 1.5mm new, 0.5mm when getting ready to go. If
you don't have a caliper or rim wear indicators, use a straightedge and
be conservative -- particularly on a front wheel.


 
Date: 25 Oct 2006 00:04:58
From: rms
Subject: Re: Split rim
A few weeks ago a spoke broke on the rear wheel of my MTB, which caused the
wheel, probably fairly warped to begin with, to flop back and forth, which
caused the rear brake to hang up on the rim, which took some forceful
banging on with a large rock to break loose, before I could limp home.

Anyway, the LBS sold me a 'double-walled' wheel, which they said should
prevent wheel-warping in future.

rms




 
Date: 24 Oct 2006 23:38:33
From: Mike Jacoubowsky
Subject: Re: Split rim
> On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
> of truing is going to fix this:
> http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
> 22000 km of road use on it.

Very common on wheels used for commuting, particularly in the rain. The
sidewalls simply get worn away to the point they can no longer withstand the
pressure from the tube and blow out. Many newer rims now have embedded wear
indicators in the sidewalls; when the rim is worn to the bottom of the
indicator, time to replace.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

"Ron McKinnon" <ratofsumatra@hotmail.com > wrote in message
news:1161731492.750001.308930@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
> Well this is a first for me.
>
> On the ride home from work my rear brakes were rubbing against the rim.
> I was going to straighten out the wheel when I got home, but no amount
> of truing is going to fix this:
> http://www.magma.ca/~ronmck/photo/split-rim.jpg
>
> Anybody have this happen before? The rim is a Mavic T261 with maybe
> 22000 km of road use on it.
>
> I don't recall hitting any big bumps lately. I patched a flat last
> Thursday but the rim seemed fine then.
>
> Oh well, time for a new wheel. Pity it couldn't have lasted another
> month though. I would have had all winter to make a new one. Now I'll
> have to rush to get those last few weeks of riding in.
>
> Cheers.
> Ron.
>