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Date: 31 Aug 2007 08:04:37
From: !Jones
Subject: A couple of wheel building questions:
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I'm going to learn wheel building... here goes my first try.
On the "over locknut" dimension (OLD): in a prefect world, wouldn't
this be the same as the dropout spacing? It's essentially taken at
that point on the hub, correct? We use the OLD as opposed to the
inside dropout measurement because the OLD is more accurate, as I
understand it.
On dishing gagues (DG): my first project is building a set of 406
wheels. Is a 700 DG useable on a 406 wheel? I'm thinking I'll need a
different one.
Jones
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Date: 31 Aug 2007 15:15:48
From: Nate Knutson
Subject: Re: A couple of wheel building questions:
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On Aug 31, 2:40 pm, !Jones <p...@off.com > wrote:
> On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 09:46:36 -0700, in rec.bicycles.tech Nate Knutson
>
> <biken...@riseup.net> wrote:
> >The measurements of the hub itself are the only relevant thing to
> >building the wheel. (The exception is offset rear triangles).
>
> OK, Nate... I'll accept that as authoritative. My oddball hub doesn't
> fit my frame, so I'm gonna go in with a lathe and surface grinder and
> *make* it fit! (Wanna stop me? You'll never take me alive, copper!
> I'm armed with a *weapon*!!!)
>
> So, I measure from where the dropouts meet the hub... whatever that
> is.
>
> I'm on a mission!
>
> Jones
err... what kind of hub and frame? most plans in this department
involving the tools in question are not very good/practical... unless
maybe you're making your own endcaps to respace a cartridge hub or
something...
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Date: 01 Sep 2007 13:06:32
From: !Jones
Subject: Re: A couple of wheel building questions:
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On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 15:15:48 -0700, in rec.bicycles.tech Nate Knutson
<bikenate@riseup.net > wrote:
>err... what kind of hub and frame? most plans in this department
>involving the tools in question are not very good/practical... unless
>maybe you're making your own endcaps to respace a cartridge hub or
>something...
Yeah... "something". Don't worry, you didn't tell me to do it.
If anyone cares, I picked up an old Littlejohn BMX tandem frame on
eBay with 100mm dropouts. I rebuilt a Bendix red-band "kickback" to
drop in it. If I remove about 8mm of metal from the drive side, then
it'll fit *and* the part I need to modify is available for five bucks,
so I can keep the original parts in a baggy for posterity.
Here, hold my beer and watch this shit...
Jones...whose next trick will be to learn to ride a BMX at 60 years of
age.
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Date: 31 Aug 2007 09:46:36
From: Nate Knutson
Subject: Re: A couple of wheel building questions:
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On Aug 31, 6:04 am, !Jones <p...@off.com > wrote:
> I'm going to learn wheel building... here goes my first try.
>
> On the "over locknut" dimension (OLD): in a prefect world, wouldn't
> this be the same as the dropout spacing? It's essentially taken at
> that point on the hub, correct? We use the OLD as opposed to the
> inside dropout measurement because the OLD is more accurate, as I
> understand it.
Yes the OLD and the frame spacing would ideally be identical. There
are both frames and hubs that have oddball spacings in the 132.5
ballpark as a way of being compatible with both 130 and 135 hubs and
frames, respectively. Also, there are different opinions about what
the permissible amount of difference is between frame and hub
spacings. For example, most people feel that up to around 5mm of
difference is a nonissue for steel frames, aside from making wheel
installation somewhat clumsier. Al and carbon, the safe margin is
probably less, and the wheel installation issues get much gnarlier
anyway.
Also, many hubs can be converted to different spacings if you desire.
One of my favorite tricks is using a respaced 130 shimano road hub on
a road-going 135 bike to get an 8/9/10 wheel with much less dish, or
close to no dish if using an offset rim.
The measurements of the hub itself are the only relevant thing to
building the wheel. (The exception is offset rear triangles).
> On dishing gagues (DG): my first project is building a set of 406
> wheels. Is a 700 DG useable on a 406 wheel? I'm thinking I'll need a
> different one.
Dish sticks aren't really size-specific, but many of them don't work
with small wheels Some only go down to around 26 and others 24. One of
the ones you might look at that does is the park wag4, but that thing
is a horrible, stupid design and you probably shouldn't buy it. It's
annoyingly hard to use one-handed is the problem.
You don't really need a dish stick, so if you're not building a ton of
20" wheels then you could skip it for now.
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Date: 31 Aug 2007 16:40:10
From: !Jones
Subject: Re: A couple of wheel building questions:
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On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 09:46:36 -0700, in rec.bicycles.tech Nate Knutson
<bikenate@riseup.net > wrote:
>The measurements of the hub itself are the only relevant thing to
>building the wheel. (The exception is offset rear triangles).
OK, Nate... I'll accept that as authoritative. My oddball hub doesn't
fit my frame, so I'm gonna go in with a lathe and surface grinder and
*make* it fit! (Wanna stop me? You'll never take me alive, copper!
I'm armed with a *weapon*!!!)
So, I measure from where the dropouts meet the hub... whatever that
is.
I'm on a mission!
Jones
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