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Main
Date: 13 Nov 2007 21:17:47
From: Steve Sr.
Subject: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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Hello,
I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
him do it.
I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind
of bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading.
Unfortunately, at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the
question is what kind of saddle, etc.
Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
Thanks,
Steve
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Date: 15 Nov 2007 02:24:18
From: Chalo
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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Steve Sr. wrote:
>
> I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
> seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
> him do it.
>
> I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind
> of bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading.
> Unfortunately, at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
>
> My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
> can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the
> question is what kind of saddle, etc.
>
> Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
I'm a lot taller, and in the recent past I've been a little heavier,
than your friend. I've had to do a lot of troubleshooting with my
bikes to accommodate my weight.
MTBs are definitely the path of least resistance in this case. Road
bikes can be made to work, but they will require more handpicked and
tandem-rated parts-- and that gets expensive in a hurry.
There are some workable options these days. Bikes built for jumping
and tomfoolery can hold up well under big guys if they ride more
moderately. Most such bikes don't come in large frame sizes, which
means they won't fit your buddy well. But the parts fitted to them
can be swapped over to a frame like the 23" CrMo steel frame at
Nashbar-- which is a very rugged piece of equipment costing only $50.
(Buying a whole bike is usually a lot cheaper than buying just the
parts kit for a bike.)
The Kona Hoss is a heavy-duty bike that comes in large frame sizes.
With an expert's preventive tune-up for the wheels and perhaps a
higher handlebar, it might do the job.
Your friend should endeavor to get a tall enough frame that the
seatpost extension can be kept to a minimum. If he still bends the
seatpost, he should replace it with a Thomson post (which won't
bend).
The rear wheel will probably give him a certain amount of trouble. He
should have it carefully rebuilt with a heavier, stronger rim when it
can be trued no more. 48-spoke wheels are my preference, but the
strong MTB rims available for downhill racing and jumping make high
spoke counts less necessary than in times past.
He should stay away from cranks with square taper spindles. BMX
cranks, outboard bearing cranks, ISIS cranks, and even one-piece
cranks are all OK.
It's not a bad idea to just buy a seemingly sturdy, value-priced bike
and simply see what works and what doesn't. If it doesn't have a
square taper bottom bracket spindle, there's not much that is likely
to fail catastrophically. Your friend should inspect frequently for
bent forks, pedals, seatpost, and wheels. And he should watch and
listen for cracking.
Chalo
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Date: 15 Nov 2007 10:23:01
From: Chalo
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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Ryan Cousineau wrote:
>
> How about a rigid singlespeed MTB built with a Nexus-8 hub gear? Not too
> hard to source, and a dishless rear wheel.
That's a good idea, And it would even be basically cost-effective.
(My last new bike was a Redline Monocog 29er with a SRAM Spectro 7
hub.) But I don't know how robust the Nexus 8 axle is. I haven't
broken one on my SRAM and Nexus 7 speed hubs, though.
Observing a reasonable lower limit on chain primary gearing would
limit the Nexus hub to a taller top gear than would be feasible for a
derailleur system. Depending on the 380-pounder in question, and on
the terrain in his area, that could be an issue.
Chalo
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Date: 15 Nov 2007 15:31:17
From: Ryan Cousineau
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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In article
<99265d54-cf28-43ff-85bd-9155ca195b95@k62g2000hse.googlegroups.com >,
Chalo <chalo.colina@gmail.com > wrote:
> Steve Sr. wrote:
> >
> > I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
> > seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
> > him do it.
> >
> > I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind
> > of bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading.
> > Unfortunately, at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
> >
> > My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
> > can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the
> > question is what kind of saddle, etc.
> >
> > Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
>
> I'm a lot taller, and in the recent past I've been a little heavier,
> than your friend. I've had to do a lot of troubleshooting with my
> bikes to accommodate my weight.
>
> MTBs are definitely the path of least resistance in this case. Road
> bikes can be made to work, but they will require more handpicked and
> tandem-rated parts-- and that gets expensive in a hurry.
>
> There are some workable options these days. Bikes built for jumping
> and tomfoolery can hold up well under big guys if they ride more
> moderately. Most such bikes don't come in large frame sizes, which
> means they won't fit your buddy well. But the parts fitted to them
> can be swapped over to a frame like the 23" CrMo steel frame at
> Nashbar-- which is a very rugged piece of equipment costing only $50.
> (Buying a whole bike is usually a lot cheaper than buying just the
> parts kit for a bike.)
>
> The Kona Hoss is a heavy-duty bike that comes in large frame sizes.
> With an expert's preventive tune-up for the wheels and perhaps a
> higher handlebar, it might do the job.
>
> Your friend should endeavor to get a tall enough frame that the
> seatpost extension can be kept to a minimum. If he still bends the
> seatpost, he should replace it with a Thomson post (which won't
> bend).
>
> The rear wheel will probably give him a certain amount of trouble. He
> should have it carefully rebuilt with a heavier, stronger rim when it
> can be trued no more. 48-spoke wheels are my preference, but the
> strong MTB rims available for downhill racing and jumping make high
> spoke counts less necessary than in times past.
>
> He should stay away from cranks with square taper spindles. BMX
> cranks, outboard bearing cranks, ISIS cranks, and even one-piece
> cranks are all OK.
>
> It's not a bad idea to just buy a seemingly sturdy, value-priced bike
> and simply see what works and what doesn't. If it doesn't have a
> square taper bottom bracket spindle, there's not much that is likely
> to fail catastrophically. Your friend should inspect frequently for
> bent forks, pedals, seatpost, and wheels. And he should watch and
> listen for cracking.
>
> Chalo
How about a rigid singlespeed MTB built with a Nexus-8 hub gear? Not too
hard to source, and a dishless rear wheel.
--
Ryan Cousineau rcousine@sfu.ca http://www.wiredcola.com/
"My scenarios may give the impression I could be an excellent crook.
Not true - I am a talented lawyer." - Sandy in rec.bicycles.racing
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Date: 15 Nov 2007 17:24:47
From: Ted Bennett
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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Ryan Cousineau <rcousine@sfu.ca > wrote:
> How about a rigid singlespeed MTB built with a Nexus-8 hub gear?
Hmm. With a Nexus-8, it's not a singlespeed. Nor does it need to be a
singlespeed before the conversion.
--
Ted Bennett
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Date: 16 Nov 2007 07:06:32
From: Ryan Cousineau
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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In article
<tedbennett-75E5DB.17244715112007@earthlink.vsrv-sjc.supernews.net >,
Ted Bennett <tedbennett@earthlink.net > wrote:
> Ryan Cousineau <rcousine@sfu.ca> wrote:
>
> > How about a rigid singlespeed MTB built with a Nexus-8 hub gear?
>
> Hmm. With a Nexus-8, it's not a singlespeed. Nor does it need to be a
> singlespeed before the conversion.
True; I only suggested that because singlespeeds are an off-the-rack
solution. Nexus-equipped bikes are a little less common.
--
Ryan Cousineau rcousine@sfu.ca http://www.wiredcola.com/
"My scenarios may give the impression I could be an excellent crook.
Not true - I am a talented lawyer." - Sandy in rec.bicycles.racing
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Date: 15 Nov 2007 19:36:21
From: Steve Gravrock
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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On 2007-11-15, Ryan Cousineau <rcousine@sfu.ca > wrote:
>> Steve Sr. wrote:
>> >
>> > I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
>> > seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
>> > him do it.
> How about a rigid singlespeed MTB built with a Nexus-8 hub gear? Not too
> hard to source, and a dishless rear wheel.
>
Will the gearhub stand up to the kind of torque a 380 lb rider can put
out?
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Date: 15 Nov 2007 05:33:43
From: me
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 21:17:47 -0500, Steve Sr. wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
> seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
> him do it.
>
> I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind of
> bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading. Unfortunately,
> at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
>
> My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
> can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the question
> is what kind of saddle, etc.
>
> Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
How about a dutch bike? Say an OMA? Their wheels are generally
VERY overbuilt, as is the rest of the bike. 36 spoke 12 gauge!
It wont be fast, but then, that isnt the point. Generally they
are reckoned to be comfortable for "getting around" and the
habit of getting around by bike is what will make the difference.
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Date: 15 Nov 2007 20:04:47
From: Jasper Janssen
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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On Thu, 15 Nov 2007 05:33:43 GMT, me <me@nowhere.com > wrote:
>On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 21:17:47 -0500, Steve Sr. wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
>> seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
>> him do it.
>>
>> I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind of
>> bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading. Unfortunately,
>> at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
>>
>> My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
>> can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the question
>> is what kind of saddle, etc.
>>
>> Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
>How about a dutch bike? Say an OMA? Their wheels are generally
No way. (I'll expand below)
>VERY overbuilt, as is the rest of the bike. 36 spoke 12 gauge!
>It wont be fast, but then, that isnt the point. Generally they
>are reckoned to be comfortable for "getting around" and the
>habit of getting around by bike is what will make the difference.
The Dutch Oma/Opa (Grandmother/Grandfather) type bicycle is actually a
type, rather than a brand, and in particular the "Oma" variant is just
unsuitable for really high weight riders. The frame geometry, lacking a
top tube[1], is not all that stable under seriously high torque such as
that caused by pedalling hard with that kind of weight behind it[2].
The Opa type is, in itself, a perfectly usable bicycle, but it does have
limitations, that are particularly noticeable to the heavier rider.
In particular: no gears at all. When you're heavier, even in totally flat
terrain like in .nl, you're going to encounter the occasional 'hill',
usually over/underpasses and bridges and the like. And even if those are
very short, when you're heavy (especially if also out of shape) it can be
hard and pretty damn tiring to power over those.
The second, and even more major limitation is that it has only a coaster
brake. I've found that at my weight, good braking is Very Very Important.
And coaster brakes lead to either very long stopping distances or slipping
rear wheels, which aren't really that much fun. A front handbrake is
better, and I've found that V-brakes, properly maintained (which actually
isn't much work at all, once set up they'll usually not need much
attention till they wear out) will have a much higher maximum stopping
force than drums, which comes into play when you get into our weight
class.
And also.. the wheel may have very thick spokes, but that's not generally
a plus point. Thicker spokes fatigue more easily (they're also usually, or
at least used to be, galvanised rather than stainless, which rusts). A 36
spoke 15 gauge stainless steel with alu rim wheel will last longer, as
long as it's tensioned properly (and these are typically single-wall very
basic hole-y hoops, so that's where 'tension as high as the rim will bear'
will probably apply).
Incidentally, the company in [1] is selling those things at
abso-freaking-lutely ridiculous prices. Oma/Opa types are typically going
for around 150-300 euro here depending on build-quality, ie, not quite as
cheap as a WalMart Roadmaster Fury (those types of bikes don't actually
sell, here).
A thousand bucks -- even with the way the dollar is now -- would equate to
a Dutch utility bicycle with all the trimmings. Hub dynamo, 7 or 8 speed
hub gear, 36 stainless spoke/alu rim wheels, standard 38/622 tyres,
usually battery powered rear light despite the hub dynamo, they don't like
pulling cable these days, and two drum 'roller' brakes. Fully enclosed
chaincase, full fenders, kickstand and rear carrier are assumed. Modern
lightweight rear carriers are usually only rated at around 20 kilos or so
though, rather than suitable for carrying an extra adult. Although
admittedly the old steel rear carriers would bend a bit from side to side
when doing so.
Now, if you're planning to use this as a short-runs-to-the-shops and very
short commute type of thing, I'd recommend something Along the lines of a
dutch styly utility bicycle, but with a front handbrake and a 3 speed rear
box at the minimum.
If you're planning on long rides in the paved country, go wider tyres if
possible but still unsuspended, but make sure you've got the 36 spoke
wheels, properly tensioned, and V-brakes. Gears, well, anything will cope
with that sort of load (as long as you don't do track sprint style
standing starts with gigantic power fed through it), but expect them to
wear more quickly. *Avoid* the high-bucks titanium and aluminum cogs,
actually. Aluminum big rings do reasonably well but at the smaller teeth
count they start to suffer a bit.
Mine's got Deore equipment on a 'trekking' geometry frame and that holds
up well.
Jasper
[1] http://www.dutchbikes.us/opa_oma.html
[2] As I said elsethread, I'm a bit under the OP's weight and I have
serious issues with torque in lady's frames. It's not that they are gonna
fail, particularly, but mainly that they feel wobbly to the max. And
lady's bike frames *have* actually been known to bend at the bottom
bracket with really heavy loads, occasionally, so that's another reason to
avoid them.
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Date: 14 Nov 2007 13:36:51
From: Scott G.
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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http://www.co-motion.com/mazama.html
Tandem parts for heavy duty single
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Date: 14 Nov 2007 04:41:02
From:
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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On Nov 13, 9:17 pm, Steve Sr. <Nos...@nospam.com > wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
> seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
> him do it.
>
> I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind
> of bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading.
> Unfortunately, at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
>
> My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
> can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the
> question is what kind of saddle, etc.
>
> Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
the best best is to have him check ebay for a $200 used giant yukon or
iguana in size 18 (large). this should fit him just fine and you will
see how that will change his life
www.bikingthings.com
carlos
- Ride Hard, Stay Fit, Liver Better, Be Happier -
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Date: 14 Nov 2007 03:36:50
From:
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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On Nov 14, 1:17 pm, Steve Sr. <Nos...@nospam.com > wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
> seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
> him do it.
>
> I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind
> of bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading.
> Unfortunately, at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
>
> My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
> can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the
> question is what kind of saddle, etc.
>
> Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
This guy was 501lbs when he started on his Trek 520
http://istanbultea.typepad.com/largefellaonabike/2005/02/large_in_charge.html
He's lost 248lbs since November 2005, could be good inspiration for
your friend too.
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Date: 13 Nov 2007 20:42:23
From: A Muzi
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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Steve Sr. wrote:
> I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
> seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
> him do it.
>
> I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind
> of bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading.
> Unfortunately, at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
>
> My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
> can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the
> question is what kind of saddle, etc.
>
> Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
At 380, your general parameters are good. Probably a higher rise
handlebar if he's uncomfortable with the lower bar position found on
most models. But surely test ride with him and discuss all this with the
vendor.
Most modern mid range equipment will be fine. Do ensure the wheel
quality is adequate. Few off-the-floor mid price mountain bikes will
have tough enough wheels. This may involve merely tensioning the wheels
properly and may involve having wheels built for him with strong rims,
wide tires and a full complement (36 or more) of spokes.
We've built for heavier riders using tandem grade parts but assuming
he's not going to punish the bike (he'll keep both wheels on the ground,
yes?) you need only be diligent not manic about it.
Riding with him regularly would be the best thing, equipment is only one
aspect of this.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
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Date: 14 Nov 2007 21:31:45
From: Jasper Janssen
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
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On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 20:42:23 -0600, A Muzi <am@yellowjersey.org > wrote:
>We've built for heavier riders using tandem grade parts but assuming
>he's not going to punish the bike (he'll keep both wheels on the ground,
>yes?) you need only be diligent not manic about it.
I'm a bit under 380, but my XT40 rear wheel is a bit on the overkill side.
Regular 36 would probably do just as well.
Jasper
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Date: 13 Nov 2007 21:06:49
From: BikingGrad80
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
|
Trek 520, versatile, rugged as heck.
"A Muzi" <am@yellowjersey.org > wrote in message
news:13jko25r7cadkcf@corp.supernews.com...
> Steve Sr. wrote:
>> I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
>> seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
>> him do it.
>>
>> I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind
>> of bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading.
>> Unfortunately, at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
>>
>> My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
>> can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the
>> question is what kind of saddle, etc.
>>
>> Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
>
> At 380, your general parameters are good. Probably a higher rise handlebar
> if he's uncomfortable with the lower bar position found on most models.
> But surely test ride with him and discuss all this with the vendor.
>
> Most modern mid range equipment will be fine. Do ensure the wheel quality
> is adequate. Few off-the-floor mid price mountain bikes will have tough
> enough wheels. This may involve merely tensioning the wheels properly and
> may involve having wheels built for him with strong rims, wide tires and a
> full complement (36 or more) of spokes.
>
> We've built for heavier riders using tandem grade parts but assuming he's
> not going to punish the bike (he'll keep both wheels on the ground, yes?)
> you need only be diligent not manic about it.
>
> Riding with him regularly would be the best thing, equipment is only one
> aspect of this.
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> www.yellowjersey.org
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971
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Date: 13 Nov 2007 20:40:58
From: Tom Sherman
Subject: Re: Bike Suggestions For A Newbie Clydesdale
|
Steve Sr. wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a friend / co-worker who is 6'3" and about 380 lbs. He is
> seriously in need of loosing weight and is considering cycling to help
> him do it.
>
> I would like to be able to offer him some suggestions as to what kind
> of bike and equipment would hold up to that kind of loading.
> Unfortunately, at only 155 lbs. I am not going to be much help.
>
> My initial thoughts would be a mountain bike (probably non-suspended -
> can you get these any more?) with wide slick tires and then the
> question is what kind of saddle, etc.
>
> Can any of you offer more specific suggestions?
Paging Chalo Colina!
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"the grinning buddy bear carries a fork." - g.d.
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