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Main
Date: 04 Sep 2007 01:48:26
From: landotter
Subject: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
My Dew should be in next week. Got the basic model as I'm mounting
fenders and racks, and Tektro LP brakes are just fine on a utility
bike. Bike will be used to fetch things, like beer, dog food, and 2
pound mackerels within a five mile radius, so I don't need "passin'
through Fife Alabama" type reliability.
I already got a Deore rear mech for peanuts($15, Nashbar), although
I'm sure the chintzy Altus would have been fine, as I've got to at
least have an allen bolt holding the cable--cuz that passes for class
in these parts. ;-)
Pedals will be MKS Sylvan Touring. Strapless for fall.
Not even worried about the post, as I'm riding a larger size for my
inseam, so no towering post.
Wheels are what concerns me. They have single wall Rigidas:
http://www.rigida.com/eng/produits/mtb_single/cyber_10.html#
So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
Also, it's got the ubiquitous cheap cupncone Formula hubs. I'd imagine
that a repack with 25 grade balls first thing would be wise? I've had
great luck doing this with Sora hubs in the past, a prophylactic
bearing job and cone adjustment has kept them from pitting. Think the
Formulas will appreciate it?
Other than that, it looks to be a fine fetcher of things. The EZ fire
shifters should prove to be just fine and cheap to replace if I whack
them against something. Bars will likely be too wide, but I've got a
fresh hack blade.
I'll post my mini reviews of that nifty front rack from Nashbar and
the Knog city panniers when I get it all bolted up.
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Date: 05 Sep 2007 15:29:58
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 5, 5:26 pm, Ozark Bicycle
<bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com > wrote:
> On Sep 5, 5:18 pm, "Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - Global Warming Edition =AE"
>
>
>
> <b...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> > "Scott Gordo" <blubberp...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > Hey, where did you buy the Tange cromo fork? Is it butted?- Hide quote=
d text -
>
> Have your LBS check with QBP.
That or a good online QBP connected shop like aebike.com or bikeman.
My LBS is great, but they're amusingly hopeless when it comes to
ordering anything remotely out of the ordinary. They'd never even
heard of MKS pedals when I tried to order some--those aren't QBP,
admittedly.
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Date: 05 Sep 2007 15:26:18
From: Ozark Bicycle
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 5, 5:18 pm, "Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - Global Warming Edition =AE"
<b...@bellsouth.net > wrote:
> "Scott Gordo" <blubberp...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1189024232.694182.78750@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 3, 9:48 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> My Dew should be in next week. Got the basic model as I'm mounting
> >> fenders and racks, and Tektro LP brakes are just fine on a utility
> >> bike. Bike will be used to fetch things, like beer, dog food, and 2
> >> pound mackerels within a five mile radius, so I don't need "passin'
> >> through Fife Alabama" type reliability.
>
> >> I already got a Deore rear mech for peanuts($15, Nashbar), although
> >> I'm sure the chintzy Altus would have been fine, as I've got to at
> >> least have an allen bolt holding the cable--cuz that passes for class
> >> in these parts. ;-)
>
> >> Pedals will be MKS Sylvan Touring. Strapless for fall.
>
> >> Not even worried about the post, as I'm riding a larger size for my
> >> inseam, so no towering post.
>
> >> Wheels are what concerns me. They have single wall
> >> Rigidas:http://www.rigida.com/eng/produits/mtb_single/cyber_10.html#
>
> >> So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
> >> forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
> >> destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
> >> them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
> >> utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
> >> wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
> >> Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
> >> Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
>
> >> Also, it's got the ubiquitous cheap cupncone Formula hubs. I'd imagine
> >> that a repack with 25 grade balls first thing would be wise? I've had
> >> great luck doing this with Sora hubs in the past, a prophylactic
> >> bearing job and cone adjustment has kept them from pitting. Think the
> >> Formulas will appreciate it?
>
> >> Other than that, it looks to be a fine fetcher of things. The EZ fire
> >> shifters should prove to be just fine and cheap to replace if I whack
> >> them against something. Bars will likely be too wide, but I've got a
> >> fresh hack blade.
>
> >> I'll post my mini reviews of that nifty front rack from Nashbar and
> >> the Knog city panniers when I get it all bolted up.
>
> > I'm in the middle of something similar but different. I garbage picked
> > a rusty Kona Yeeha hybrid frame. So far I've bought a Tange cromo fork
> > and an aheadset, and it's about half built up with dustbin parts,
> > which include:
> > - some 170mm cranks and UN52 bb taken off a spin bike, with a
> > permanently affixed non-drive side pedal.
> > - a scuffed up old 105 rear derr taken off a Biopace-era bike that
> > went fixie
> > - a 27" Ambrosio front wheel with a gumwall tire
> > - indistinguishable leather saddle that's pretty much jerky at this
> > point
> > - a seat post that's too skinny
> > - bars, gripshifts, brake levers and calipers taken off of a Chinese
> > food delivery bike abandoned at Broadway and St. Marks
> > - Rear wheel is either going to be a pitted Ultegra/Open Pro 36
> > spoker, or an old Sturmey Archer 3sp. I think the spacing for the rear
> > is 135, though....
>
> > /s
>
> Hey, where did you buy the Tange cromo fork? Is it butted?- Hide quoted =
text -
>
>
Have your LBS check with QBP.
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Date: 05 Sep 2007 21:07:04
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 5, 3:30 pm, Scott Gordo <blubberp...@gmail.com > wrote:
> I'm in the middle of something similar but different. I garbage picked
> a rusty Kona Yeeha hybrid frame. So far I've bought a Tange cromo fork
> and an aheadset, and it's about half built up with dustbin parts,
> which include:
> - some 170mm cranks and UN52 bb taken off a spin bike, with a
> permanently affixed non-drive side pedal.
> - a scuffed up old 105 rear derr taken off a Biopace-era bike that
> went fixie
> - a 27" Ambrosio front wheel with a gumwall tire
> - indistinguishable leather saddle that's pretty much jerky at this
> point
> - a seat post that's too skinny
> - bars, gripshifts, brake levers and calipers taken off of a Chinese
> food delivery bike abandoned at Broadway and St. Marks
> - Rear wheel is either going to be a pitted Ultegra/Open Pro 36
> spoker, or an old Sturmey Archer 3sp. I think the spacing for the rear
> is 135, though....
>
> /
Sounds NYC appropriate! I just sold my last beastly bike. Around here,
you have bike theft as well, but if you lock with a medium grade u-
lock and a cable for the front wheel, you're guaranteed (almost) to
keep your bike around. Same thing in Chicago--I rode a 800 dollar city
bike there, left it locked up in the roughest neighborhoods over
night--never even a sign that somebody tried to grind/torch/force it.
Electrical tape and hand painted aluminum fenders with massive dents
couldn't have hurt...
I figure $500 with parts and racks ain't bad for a city ride, add $40
if I go for the new rims. My garage parts supply was running low
anyway.
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Date: 05 Sep 2007 13:30:32
From: Scott Gordo
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 3, 9:48 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com > wrote:
> My Dew should be in next week. Got the basic model as I'm mounting
> fenders and racks, and Tektro LP brakes are just fine on a utility
> bike. Bike will be used to fetch things, like beer, dog food, and 2
> pound mackerels within a five mile radius, so I don't need "passin'
> through Fife Alabama" type reliability.
>
> I already got a Deore rear mech for peanuts($15, Nashbar), although
> I'm sure the chintzy Altus would have been fine, as I've got to at
> least have an allen bolt holding the cable--cuz that passes for class
> in these parts. ;-)
>
> Pedals will be MKS Sylvan Touring. Strapless for fall.
>
> Not even worried about the post, as I'm riding a larger size for my
> inseam, so no towering post.
>
> Wheels are what concerns me. They have single wall Rigidas:http://www.rigida.com/eng/produits/mtb_single/cyber_10.html#
>
> So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
> forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
> destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
> them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
> utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
> wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
> Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
> Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
>
> Also, it's got the ubiquitous cheap cupncone Formula hubs. I'd imagine
> that a repack with 25 grade balls first thing would be wise? I've had
> great luck doing this with Sora hubs in the past, a prophylactic
> bearing job and cone adjustment has kept them from pitting. Think the
> Formulas will appreciate it?
>
> Other than that, it looks to be a fine fetcher of things. The EZ fire
> shifters should prove to be just fine and cheap to replace if I whack
> them against something. Bars will likely be too wide, but I've got a
> fresh hack blade.
>
> I'll post my mini reviews of that nifty front rack from Nashbar and
> the Knog city panniers when I get it all bolted up.
I'm in the middle of something similar but different. I garbage picked
a rusty Kona Yeeha hybrid frame. So far I've bought a Tange cromo fork
and an aheadset, and it's about half built up with dustbin parts,
which include:
- some 170mm cranks and UN52 bb taken off a spin bike, with a
permanently affixed non-drive side pedal.
- a scuffed up old 105 rear derr taken off a Biopace-era bike that
went fixie
- a 27" Ambrosio front wheel with a gumwall tire
- indistinguishable leather saddle that's pretty much jerky at this
point
- a seat post that's too skinny
- bars, gripshifts, brake levers and calipers taken off of a Chinese
food delivery bike abandoned at Broadway and St. Marks
- Rear wheel is either going to be a pitted Ultegra/Open Pro 36
spoker, or an old Sturmey Archer 3sp. I think the spacing for the rear
is 135, though....
/s
|
| | |
Date: 05 Sep 2007 18:18:13
From: Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - Global Warming Edition ®
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
"Scott Gordo" <blubberpuss@gmail.com > wrote in message
news:1189024232.694182.78750@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 3, 9:48 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> My Dew should be in next week. Got the basic model as I'm mounting
>> fenders and racks, and Tektro LP brakes are just fine on a utility
>> bike. Bike will be used to fetch things, like beer, dog food, and 2
>> pound mackerels within a five mile radius, so I don't need "passin'
>> through Fife Alabama" type reliability.
>>
>> I already got a Deore rear mech for peanuts($15, Nashbar), although
>> I'm sure the chintzy Altus would have been fine, as I've got to at
>> least have an allen bolt holding the cable--cuz that passes for class
>> in these parts. ;-)
>>
>> Pedals will be MKS Sylvan Touring. Strapless for fall.
>>
>> Not even worried about the post, as I'm riding a larger size for my
>> inseam, so no towering post.
>>
>> Wheels are what concerns me. They have single wall
>> Rigidas:http://www.rigida.com/eng/produits/mtb_single/cyber_10.html#
>>
>> So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
>> forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
>> destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
>> them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
>> utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
>> wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
>> Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
>> Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
>>
>> Also, it's got the ubiquitous cheap cupncone Formula hubs. I'd imagine
>> that a repack with 25 grade balls first thing would be wise? I've had
>> great luck doing this with Sora hubs in the past, a prophylactic
>> bearing job and cone adjustment has kept them from pitting. Think the
>> Formulas will appreciate it?
>>
>> Other than that, it looks to be a fine fetcher of things. The EZ fire
>> shifters should prove to be just fine and cheap to replace if I whack
>> them against something. Bars will likely be too wide, but I've got a
>> fresh hack blade.
>>
>> I'll post my mini reviews of that nifty front rack from Nashbar and
>> the Knog city panniers when I get it all bolted up.
>
> I'm in the middle of something similar but different. I garbage picked
> a rusty Kona Yeeha hybrid frame. So far I've bought a Tange cromo fork
> and an aheadset, and it's about half built up with dustbin parts,
> which include:
> - some 170mm cranks and UN52 bb taken off a spin bike, with a
> permanently affixed non-drive side pedal.
> - a scuffed up old 105 rear derr taken off a Biopace-era bike that
> went fixie
> - a 27" Ambrosio front wheel with a gumwall tire
> - indistinguishable leather saddle that's pretty much jerky at this
> point
> - a seat post that's too skinny
> - bars, gripshifts, brake levers and calipers taken off of a Chinese
> food delivery bike abandoned at Broadway and St. Marks
> - Rear wheel is either going to be a pitted Ultegra/Open Pro 36
> spoker, or an old Sturmey Archer 3sp. I think the spacing for the rear
> is 135, though....
>
> /s
>
Hey, where did you buy the Tange cromo fork? Is it butted?
|
| |
Date: 05 Sep 2007 17:56:22
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 5, 11:17 am, Michael Press <rub...@pacbell.net > wrote:
> In article
> <1188998440.233401.79...@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
>
>
>
> landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On Sep 5, 1:46 am, A Muzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
> > > > Ozark Bicycle <bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com> wrote:
> > > >> That little Nashbar rack ain't half bad, despite what some rack snobs
> > > >> might say. If the Knog panniers fit well on it's wide-but-short
> > > >> shelf, it should be a nice combo - frugal, funky, functional. ;-)
> > > landotter wrote:
> > > > You seen one of these things out in the wild? I've always wanted a
> > > > front platform rack, but not enough to shell out the $$ for an
> > > > expedition quality number--just something Japanesey. 15# capacity is
> > > > plenty for a good half paper sack of groceries.
>
> > > > The image on the pdf instructions shows it as being pretty stout:
>
> > > >http://www.nashbar.com/tech/pdf_files/NA-FRR.pdf
>
> > > > I love the idea of mounting on the brake studs, but let's see how it
> > > > is in practice.
>
> > > > If you've got a crowned fork in the collection, Andew's got some of
> > > > those cool Pletschers, according to the website:
>
> > > >http://www.yellowjersey.org/plet.html
>
> > > Yes but limited to mounting on a traditional crown. Clever design.
>
> > Ja, I know, or I've have ordered two from you as of last year. ;-)
>
> > One thing though, as a Svenski-Americani immigranti--I do find it
> > strange that very few racks here have integral top clamps, like the
> > lovely classic rear Pletscher does. Every normal rack back in Svedland
> > has one. You might need a true bungee for a case of Carlsberg, but for
> > Dagposten and a smoked herring, the spring is quick and neat. The
> > Topeak Explorer is one of the only modern in strength type racks that
> > actually still carries on the rat trap tradition:
>
> >http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Explorer-Bike-Rack-Spring/dp/B000FIATZ8
>
> I had a rat trap Pletcher for a while. Mostly it could
> not hold the load I carried, particularly against side
> shifts; sometimes it would crush the load; and rarely
> was convenient. Then one day I let slip the spring
> loaded trap and the impact cracked the beam under the
> impact. Eventually dumped it and got a Blackburn
> expedition.
Boo! You never had a real Yurpeen springer then. Case of brewskis, no
problem. A delicate mackerel under the spring, no problem either. Sort
of like a good retrieving dog.
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Date: 05 Sep 2007 14:25:43
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 5, 9:22 am, Peter Cole <peter_c...@comcast.net > wrote:
> Chalo wrote:
> > jim beam wrote:
> >> replacing bearing balls with grade 25 when the cups & cones are ungraded
> >> is a complete waste of time, money and good materials.
>
> > Unground races and cones become embossed as they run in. I don't see
> > why using rounder balls is a bad idea in light of this. (Although
> > I've never thought to do it to new hubs myself.)
>
> >> as is
> >> recreational grease repacking. and even if you condoned the waste and
> >> did it anyway, the crud on your sticky fingers after playing with your
> >> mackerels will introduce more abrasive particles to the bearings than if
> >> left alone. adjust by all means, but anything else is just self abuse.
>
> > So he washes his fishy mitts first. In my bike mechanickin' days, I
> > saw way more undergreased OEM hubs (and dry bearings at tune-up time)
> > than I care to recall, and to me it just makes sense to top them up.
>
> > Chalo
>
> I just pop the dust caps & squirt some grease on the balls with a needle
> fitting.
When the hubs are simply dry, I do the same thing, but in a more low
brow method: I put automotive wheel bearing grease in a zip top bag
and snip off a corner, so it's pastry bag style. Works great!
|
| |
Date: 05 Sep 2007 13:20:40
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 5, 1:46 am, A Muzi <a...@yellowjersey.org > wrote:
> > Ozark Bicycle <bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com> wrote:
> >> That little Nashbar rack ain't half bad, despite what some rack snobs
> >> might say. If the Knog panniers fit well on it's wide-but-short
> >> shelf, it should be a nice combo - frugal, funky, functional. ;-)
> landotter wrote:
> > You seen one of these things out in the wild? I've always wanted a
> > front platform rack, but not enough to shell out the $$ for an
> > expedition quality number--just something Japanesey. 15# capacity is
> > plenty for a good half paper sack of groceries.
>
> > The image on the pdf instructions shows it as being pretty stout:
>
> >http://www.nashbar.com/tech/pdf_files/NA-FRR.pdf
>
> > I love the idea of mounting on the brake studs, but let's see how it
> > is in practice.
>
> > If you've got a crowned fork in the collection, Andew's got some of
> > those cool Pletschers, according to the website:
>
> >http://www.yellowjersey.org/plet.html
>
> Yes but limited to mounting on a traditional crown. Clever design.
>
Ja, I know, or I've have ordered two from you as of last year. ;-)
One thing though, as a Svenski-Americani immigranti--I do find it
strange that very few racks here have integral top clamps, like the
lovely classic rear Pletscher does. Every normal rack back in Svedland
has one. You might need a true bungee for a case of Carlsberg, but for
Dagposten and a smoked herring, the spring is quick and neat. The
Topeak Explorer is one of the only modern in strength type racks that
actually still carries on the rat trap tradition:
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Explorer-Bike-Rack-Spring/dp/B000FIATZ8
(amazon link due to good pic and consistent url)
|
| | |
Date: 05 Sep 2007 09:17:19
From: Michael Press
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
In article
<1188998440.233401.79060@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com >,
landotter <landotter@gmail.com > wrote:
> On Sep 5, 1:46 am, A Muzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
> > > Ozark Bicycle <bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com> wrote:
> > >> That little Nashbar rack ain't half bad, despite what some rack snobs
> > >> might say. If the Knog panniers fit well on it's wide-but-short
> > >> shelf, it should be a nice combo - frugal, funky, functional. ;-)
> > landotter wrote:
> > > You seen one of these things out in the wild? I've always wanted a
> > > front platform rack, but not enough to shell out the $$ for an
> > > expedition quality number--just something Japanesey. 15# capacity is
> > > plenty for a good half paper sack of groceries.
> >
> > > The image on the pdf instructions shows it as being pretty stout:
> >
> > >http://www.nashbar.com/tech/pdf_files/NA-FRR.pdf
> >
> > > I love the idea of mounting on the brake studs, but let's see how it
> > > is in practice.
> >
> > > If you've got a crowned fork in the collection, Andew's got some of
> > > those cool Pletschers, according to the website:
> >
> > >http://www.yellowjersey.org/plet.html
> >
> > Yes but limited to mounting on a traditional crown. Clever design.
> >
>
> Ja, I know, or I've have ordered two from you as of last year. ;-)
>
> One thing though, as a Svenski-Americani immigranti--I do find it
> strange that very few racks here have integral top clamps, like the
> lovely classic rear Pletscher does. Every normal rack back in Svedland
> has one. You might need a true bungee for a case of Carlsberg, but for
> Dagposten and a smoked herring, the spring is quick and neat. The
> Topeak Explorer is one of the only modern in strength type racks that
> actually still carries on the rat trap tradition:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Explorer-Bike-Rack-Spring/dp/B000FIATZ8
I had a rat trap Pletcher for a while. Mostly it could
not hold the load I carried, particularly against side
shifts; sometimes it would crush the load; and rarely
was convenient. Then one day I let slip the spring
loaded trap and the impact cracked the beam under the
impact. Eventually dumped it and got a Blackburn
expedition.
--
Michael Press
|
| |
Date: 04 Sep 2007 19:10:26
From: Ozark Bicycle
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 4, 7:15 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com > wrote:
> On Sep 3, 9:53 pm, Ozark Bicycle
>
> <bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com> wrote:
> > That little Nashbar rack ain't half bad, despite what some rack snobs
> > might say. If the Knog panniers fit well on it's wide-but-short
> > shelf, it should be a nice combo - frugal, funky, functional. ;-)
>
> You seen one of these things out in the wild? I've always wanted a
> front platform rack, but not enough to shell out the $$ for an
> expedition quality number--just something Japanesey. 15# capacity is
> plenty for a good half paper sack of groceries.
Yeah, I first saw one on a bike that came in for some work. I liked it
enough to get one for my down-to-earth, non-precious, actually-gets-
ridden touring bike. All of $9.99, and if it said "Blackburn" or
something similar on it, people would pay $25+ and smile. I use it as
a support for a largish handlebar bag I use both when touring and for
transporting the goods for a proper picnic.
>
> The image on the pdf instructions shows it as being pretty stout:
>
> http://www.nashbar.com/tech/pdf_files/NA-FRR.pdf
>
> I love the idea of mounting on the brake studs, but let's see how it
> is in practice.
You may have to wrestle with the stud mount tabs a bit to loosen 'em
up and get 'em to the proper angle. Quick and easy.
>
> If you've got a crowned fork in the collection, Andew's got some of
> those cool Pletschers, according to the website:
>
> http://www.yellowjersey.org/plet.html
Only my vintage Motobecane would be a candidate; that rack might be a
bit too funky for that bike.
|
| |
Date: 05 Sep 2007 00:15:30
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 3, 9:53 pm, Ozark Bicycle
<bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com > wrote:
> That little Nashbar rack ain't half bad, despite what some rack snobs
> might say. If the Knog panniers fit well on it's wide-but-short
> shelf, it should be a nice combo - frugal, funky, functional. ;-)
You seen one of these things out in the wild? I've always wanted a
front platform rack, but not enough to shell out the $$ for an
expedition quality number--just something Japanesey. 15# capacity is
plenty for a good half paper sack of groceries.
The image on the pdf instructions shows it as being pretty stout:
http://www.nashbar.com/tech/pdf_files/NA-FRR.pdf
I love the idea of mounting on the brake studs, but let's see how it
is in practice.
If you've got a crowned fork in the collection, Andew's got some of
those cool Pletschers, according to the website:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/plet.html
|
| | |
Date: 05 Sep 2007 01:46:59
From: A Muzi
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
> Ozark Bicycle <bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com> wrote:
>> That little Nashbar rack ain't half bad, despite what some rack snobs
>> might say. If the Knog panniers fit well on it's wide-but-short
>> shelf, it should be a nice combo - frugal, funky, functional. ;-)
landotter wrote:
> You seen one of these things out in the wild? I've always wanted a
> front platform rack, but not enough to shell out the $$ for an
> expedition quality number--just something Japanesey. 15# capacity is
> plenty for a good half paper sack of groceries.
>
> The image on the pdf instructions shows it as being pretty stout:
>
> http://www.nashbar.com/tech/pdf_files/NA-FRR.pdf
>
> I love the idea of mounting on the brake studs, but let's see how it
> is in practice.
>
> If you've got a crowned fork in the collection, Andew's got some of
> those cool Pletschers, according to the website:
>
> http://www.yellowjersey.org/plet.html
Yes but limited to mounting on a traditional crown. Clever design.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
|
| |
Date: 04 Sep 2007 04:56:36
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 3, 10:48 pm, Chalo <chalo.col...@gmail.com > wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>
> > replacing bearing balls with grade 25 when the cups & cones are ungraded
> > is a complete waste of time, money and good materials.
>
> Unground races and cones become embossed as they run in. I don't see
> why using rounder balls is a bad idea in light of this.
Ding ding! That's been my theory all along--that nice bearings might
emboss smoother tracks into the cheaper cupsncones. The threefour
cheap 2200 or Sora hubs I've done this with have never pitted, and
developed nice shiny tracks on the cupsncones. I've never put more
than 5k on one of these examples--so who knows? I just know that my
experience points to Shimano hubs being receptive to this, but I was
curious really about how shitty those cupncone Formulas are. I'll just
ball 'em and see.
|
| |
Date: 04 Sep 2007 03:48:06
From: Chalo
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
jim beam wrote:
>
> replacing bearing balls with grade 25 when the cups & cones are ungraded
> is a complete waste of time, money and good materials.
Unground races and cones become embossed as they run in. I don't see
why using rounder balls is a bad idea in light of this. (Although
I've never thought to do it to new hubs myself.)
> as is
> recreational grease repacking. and even if you condoned the waste and
> did it anyway, the crud on your sticky fingers after playing with your
> mackerels will introduce more abrasive particles to the bearings than if
> left alone. adjust by all means, but anything else is just self abuse.
So he washes his fishy mitts first. In my bike mechanickin' days, I
saw way more undergreased OEM hubs (and dry bearings at tune-up time)
than I care to recall, and to me it just makes sense to top them up.
Chalo
|
| | |
Date: 05 Sep 2007 10:22:18
From: Peter Cole
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
Chalo wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>> replacing bearing balls with grade 25 when the cups & cones are ungraded
>> is a complete waste of time, money and good materials.
>
> Unground races and cones become embossed as they run in. I don't see
> why using rounder balls is a bad idea in light of this. (Although
> I've never thought to do it to new hubs myself.)
>
>> as is
>> recreational grease repacking. and even if you condoned the waste and
>> did it anyway, the crud on your sticky fingers after playing with your
>> mackerels will introduce more abrasive particles to the bearings than if
>> left alone. adjust by all means, but anything else is just self abuse.
>
> So he washes his fishy mitts first. In my bike mechanickin' days, I
> saw way more undergreased OEM hubs (and dry bearings at tune-up time)
> than I care to recall, and to me it just makes sense to top them up.
>
> Chalo
>
I just pop the dust caps & squirt some grease on the balls with a needle
fitting.
|
| |
Date: 04 Sep 2007 03:33:57
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 3, 10:21 pm, "Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - Global Warming Edition =AE"
<b...@bellsouth.net > wrote:
> "landotter" <landot...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > I'll post my mini reviews of that nifty front rack from Nashbar and
> > the Knog city panniers when I get it all bolted up.
>
> Speaking of Knog bags, have you seen their website? Hot stuff:http://www=
.knog.com.au/flash.html
Soul music, piercing, and lesbian tongue fencing...Brilliant! :-D
|
| |
Date: 04 Sep 2007 03:26:20
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 3, 9:36 pm, Michael Press <rub...@pacbell.net > wrote:
> In article
> <1188870506.450966.156...@o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com>
> ,
>
> landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
> > forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
> > destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
> > them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
> > utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
> > wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
> > Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
> > Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
>
> See if you can keep the Rigida rim wheels up to snuff.
> Bragging rights. If not, go to Plan A.
That's the plan--but who can I brag to? OK, the LBS knows I'm as good
a wrench as anyone there short of Mark, who's insanely talented and to
whom I light candles--so when this wheel I make mad good lasts for 5K,
where do I go to brag, "Yo man, check out this single wall Rigida--
like perfectly round after 10K, beat that ya little hoser!"?
:-P
|
| |
Date: 03 Sep 2007 23:21:52
From: Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - Global Warming Edition ®
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
"landotter" <landotter@gmail.com > wrote in message
news:1188870506.450966.156660@o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> My Dew should be in next week. Got the basic model as I'm mounting
> fenders and racks, and Tektro LP brakes are just fine on a utility
> bike. Bike will be used to fetch things, like beer, dog food, and 2
> pound mackerels within a five mile radius, so I don't need "passin'
> through Fife Alabama" type reliability.
>
> I already got a Deore rear mech for peanuts($15, Nashbar), although
> I'm sure the chintzy Altus would have been fine, as I've got to at
> least have an allen bolt holding the cable--cuz that passes for class
> in these parts. ;-)
>
> Pedals will be MKS Sylvan Touring. Strapless for fall.
>
> Not even worried about the post, as I'm riding a larger size for my
> inseam, so no towering post.
>
> Wheels are what concerns me. They have single wall Rigidas:
> http://www.rigida.com/eng/produits/mtb_single/cyber_10.html#
>
> So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
> forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
> destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
> them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
> utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
> wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
> Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
> Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
>
> Also, it's got the ubiquitous cheap cupncone Formula hubs. I'd imagine
> that a repack with 25 grade balls first thing would be wise? I've had
> great luck doing this with Sora hubs in the past, a prophylactic
> bearing job and cone adjustment has kept them from pitting. Think the
> Formulas will appreciate it?
>
> Other than that, it looks to be a fine fetcher of things. The EZ fire
> shifters should prove to be just fine and cheap to replace if I whack
> them against something. Bars will likely be too wide, but I've got a
> fresh hack blade.
>
> I'll post my mini reviews of that nifty front rack from Nashbar and
> the Knog city panniers when I get it all bolted up.
>
Speaking of Knog bags, have you seen their website? Hot stuff:
http://www.knog.com.au/flash.html
|
| |
Date: 04 Sep 2007 03:15:38
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 3, 9:53 pm, Ozark Bicycle
<bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com > wrote:
> On Sep 3, 8:48 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > My Dew should be in next week. Got the basic model as I'm mounting
> > fenders and racks, and Tektro LP brakes are just fine on a utility
> > bike. Bike will be used to fetch things, like beer, dog food, and 2
> > pound mackerels within a five mile radius, so I don't need "passin'
> > through Fife Alabama" type reliability.
>
> > I already got a Deore rear mech for peanuts($15, Nashbar), although
> > I'm sure the chintzy Altus would have been fine, as I've got to at
> > least have an allen bolt holding the cable--cuz that passes for class
> > in these parts. ;-)
>
> > Pedals will be MKS Sylvan Touring. Strapless for fall.
>
> > Not even worried about the post, as I'm riding a larger size for my
> > inseam, so no towering post.
>
> > Wheels are what concerns me. They have single wall Rigidas:http://www.rigida.com/eng/produits/mtb_single/cyber_10.html#
>
> > So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
> > forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
> > destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
> > them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
> > utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
> > wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
> > Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
> > Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
>
> Why not 'tune up' the Rigidas and give 'em a go? If they don't last,
> the DM18s will still be there.
That's what I'll do. The DM's are just tempting due to my wonderful
experience with them, and the sub 20 buck price tag. ERD is the same
as the Rigidas.
Heh, this will give me an excuse to drink beer and get the Rigidas
super-dialed! Then I can go all Johnny Knoxville on them and see what
happens.
>
>
>
> > Also, it's got the ubiquitous cheap cupncone Formula hubs. I'd imagine
> > that a repack with 25 grade balls first thing would be wise? I've had
> > great luck doing this with Sora hubs in the past, a prophylactic
> > bearing job and cone adjustment has kept them from pitting. Think the
> > Formulas will appreciate it?
>
> Hey, BBs, even Gr25s if you get them from the right source, are pretty
> darn cheap, so why not?
>
$5 for front and rear from the LBS--I shouldn't even be asking. But it
was more about casting pearls before swine,even if the pearls is
cheap. My feeling is that the biggest problem with cheap hubs is
simply horrible cone adjustment and lack of grease out of the box.
I'll reball 'em with the same attitude I've got towards the Rigidas. I
can always whack together a great set of utility wheels for a hundred
bucks or so if I hose these. I even think I got a hub or two in the
fuckit bucket.
>
>
> > Other than that, it looks to be a fine fetcher of things. The EZ fire
> > shifters should prove to be just fine and cheap to replace if I whack
> > them against something. Bars will likely be too wide, but I've got a
> > fresh hack blade.
>
> > I'll post my mini reviews of that nifty front rack from Nashbar and
> > the Knog city panniers when I get it all bolted up.
>
> That little Nashbar rack ain't half bad, despite what some rack snobs
> might say. If the Knog panniers fit well on it's wide-but-short
> shelf, it should be a nice combo - frugal, funky, functional. ;-)
Rack's for the six pack of High Life under a bungee, pannier's going
on the classic Bor Yueh rack in back. I stick with that brand for an
amusing reason--my old city bike had one that came stock, and it was
indestructible. Once, I got clipped by a Subaru north of Belmont in
Chicago, which was my fault as I'd pulled out a little preoccupied
with a mackerel or something, and he bent my fender stays and racks a
bit. He shrieked as he was a theater-actor dude--but none to worry, a
small mob of Chinese exchange student were nearby, dusted me off, bent
my bike back in shape, and had me on the road in seconds. No kidding.
It was hysterical and sweet. The Bor Yueh rack survived the Subaru, so
I stick with the brand in tribute.
|
| |
Date: 03 Sep 2007 19:53:03
From: Ozark Bicycle
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
On Sep 3, 8:48 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com > wrote:
> My Dew should be in next week. Got the basic model as I'm mounting
> fenders and racks, and Tektro LP brakes are just fine on a utility
> bike. Bike will be used to fetch things, like beer, dog food, and 2
> pound mackerels within a five mile radius, so I don't need "passin'
> through Fife Alabama" type reliability.
>
> I already got a Deore rear mech for peanuts($15, Nashbar), although
> I'm sure the chintzy Altus would have been fine, as I've got to at
> least have an allen bolt holding the cable--cuz that passes for class
> in these parts. ;-)
>
> Pedals will be MKS Sylvan Touring. Strapless for fall.
>
> Not even worried about the post, as I'm riding a larger size for my
> inseam, so no towering post.
>
> Wheels are what concerns me. They have single wall Rigidas:http://www.rigida.com/eng/produits/mtb_single/cyber_10.html#
>
> So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
> forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
> destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
> them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
> utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
> wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
> Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
> Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
Why not 'tune up' the Rigidas and give 'em a go? If they don't last,
the DM18s will still be there.
>
> Also, it's got the ubiquitous cheap cupncone Formula hubs. I'd imagine
> that a repack with 25 grade balls first thing would be wise? I've had
> great luck doing this with Sora hubs in the past, a prophylactic
> bearing job and cone adjustment has kept them from pitting. Think the
> Formulas will appreciate it?
Hey, BBs, even Gr25s if you get them from the right source, are pretty
darn cheap, so why not?
>
> Other than that, it looks to be a fine fetcher of things. The EZ fire
> shifters should prove to be just fine and cheap to replace if I whack
> them against something. Bars will likely be too wide, but I've got a
> fresh hack blade.
>
> I'll post my mini reviews of that nifty front rack from Nashbar and
> the Knog city panniers when I get it all bolted up.
That little Nashbar rack ain't half bad, despite what some rack snobs
might say. If the Knog panniers fit well on it's wide-but-short
shelf, it should be a nice combo - frugal, funky, functional. ;-)
|
| |
Date: 03 Sep 2007 19:36:23
From: Michael Press
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
In article
<1188870506.450966.156660@o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com >
,
landotter <landotter@gmail.com > wrote:
> So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
> forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
> destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
> them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
> utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
> wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
> Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
> Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
See if you can keep the Rigida rim wheels up to snuff.
Bragging rights. If not, go to Plan A.
> Also, it's got the ubiquitous cheap cupncone Formula hubs. I'd imagine
> that a repack with 25 grade balls first thing would be wise? I've had
> great luck doing this with Sora hubs in the past, a prophylactic
> bearing job and cone adjustment has kept them from pitting. Think the
> Formulas will appreciate it?
And plenty of grease.
--
Michael Press
|
| |
Date: 03 Sep 2007 19:02:52
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Doin' the (Kona) Dew: what to keep, what to upgrade?
|
landotter wrote:
> My Dew should be in next week. Got the basic model as I'm mounting
> fenders and racks, and Tektro LP brakes are just fine on a utility
> bike. Bike will be used to fetch things, like beer, dog food, and 2
> pound mackerels within a five mile radius, so I don't need "passin'
> through Fife Alabama" type reliability.
>
> I already got a Deore rear mech for peanuts($15, Nashbar), although
> I'm sure the chintzy Altus would have been fine, as I've got to at
> least have an allen bolt holding the cable--cuz that passes for class
> in these parts. ;-)
>
> Pedals will be MKS Sylvan Touring. Strapless for fall.
>
> Not even worried about the post, as I'm riding a larger size for my
> inseam, so no towering post.
>
> Wheels are what concerns me. They have single wall Rigidas:
> http://www.rigida.com/eng/produits/mtb_single/cyber_10.html#
>
> So I'm thinking about immediately lacing to some brutal Alex DM18s and
> forgetting about them. Then again, after bringing up to tension and
> destressing--it's sort of interesting to see if I can manage to dial
> them in enough to stay round. I'm 175#, btw. 36H I sold my last
> utility bike a couple days ago. It went a year on some Alex single
> wall X404s with no touch ups needed. Hand built. So I'm thinking the
> Rigidas might be good with some love. They're 100g lighter than the
> Alex rims, so obviously they'll get the mackerels faster.
>
> Also, it's got the ubiquitous cheap cupncone Formula hubs. I'd imagine
> that a repack with 25 grade balls first thing would be wise? I've had
> great luck doing this with Sora hubs in the past, a prophylactic
> bearing job and cone adjustment has kept them from pitting. Think the
> Formulas will appreciate it?
replacing bearing balls with grade 25 when the cups & cones are ungraded
is a complete waste of time, money and good materials. as is
recreational grease repacking. and even if you condoned the waste and
did it anyway, the crud on your sticky fingers after playing with your
mackerels will introduce more abrasive particles to the bearings than if
left alone. adjust by all means, but anything else is just self abuse.
>
> Other than that, it looks to be a fine fetcher of things. The EZ fire
> shifters should prove to be just fine and cheap to replace if I whack
> them against something. Bars will likely be too wide, but I've got a
> fresh hack blade.
>
> I'll post my mini reviews of that nifty front rack from Nashbar and
> the Knog city panniers when I get it all bolted up.
>
|
|
