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Main
Date: 07 Aug 2007 16:48:04
From: Michigan John
Subject: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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I run a Campy triple crank. In the past few weeks, when the chain it on the
42t middle ring, and on the 29t granny cog, the chain drops to the granny
ring.
The chain is the narrowest Campy 10sp chain, about 65% percent worn as
measured by a Parker 'drop in' chain gauge. The 42t chainring has a lot more
wear, maybe 8 chains have been replaced since I put it on, and the teeth are
noticeable deformed.
My theory is the chainring needs replacing. But it's my first ultra-narrow
Campy chain, so that might have something to do with it.
I'd appreciate some other opinion.
John
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Date: 04 Oct 2007 09:11:29
From: Hank Wirtz
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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On Aug 7, 12:30 pm, JG <j...@cox.net > wrote:
> Why are you using a 10s chain? You don't mention switching cassettes,
> nor specify that it is a 10s triple. Isn't this a common problem with
> 10s chains??
>
> JG
OP mentioned a 29T rear cog, only available in a 10s. 9s Campag
cassetes have a max cog of 28T.
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Date: 04 Oct 2007 16:07:01
From:
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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On 7 aug, 20:39, Werehatrack <raul...@earthWEEDSlink.net > wrote:
> On Tue, 07 Aug 2007 16:48:04 GMT, "Michigan John"
>
> <michiganj...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> >I run a Campy triple crank. In the past few weeks, when the chain it on the
> >42t middle ring, and on the 29t granny cog, the chain drops to the granny
> >ring.
>
> >The chain is the narrowest Campy 10sp chain, about 65% percent worn as
> >measured by a Parker 'drop in' chain gauge. The 42t chainring has a lot more
> >wear, maybe 8 chains have been replaced since I put it on, and the teeth are
> >noticeable deformed.
>
> >My theory is the chainring needs replacing. But it's my first ultra-narrow
> >Campy chain, so that might have something to do with it.
>
> >I'd appreciate some other opinion.
>
> If you know that a part is worn out, and you are having a problem that
> may be related to that wear, then replacing the worn item is the place
> to start. If the problem persists, you have eliminated that possible
> source without wasting money; if it is alleviated, you've accomplished
> your goal and don't have to continue.
>
> IMO, it is always worthwhile to start by fixing that which you already
> know is wrong.
>
> Yes, a worn sprocket can cause a chain to walk off, particularly (IME)
> if the wear has caused burrs to build up on the sides of the teeth.
> I've only seen that on aluminum sprockets, but it caused a new chain
> to both jump off of the front and go into chainsuck in the most recent
> case. Filing off the burrs cured those two ills, but the sprocket was
> worn enough that there were still problems. Replacing the chainring
> took care of the rest of the issues.
> --
> Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
> Some gardening required to reply via email.
> Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
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Date: 08 Aug 2007 09:41:19
From:
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com skrev:
> Not to be picky but having the chain come off the middle to the small
> when riding is not chainsuck at all. Chainsuck is when the rings are
> dirty/worn(as you mentioned) and the chain travels up the ring on the
> bottom portion of the chainring and gets stuck/smacks the chainstay
> from the underside. Having the chain come off the top of the rings is
> not really chainsuck.
Well, reading on the link I provided, I must say you are right, and I
was too hasty and wrong. But the OP's description of the problem and
circumstances; trippel, long derailleur, very worn chainring with
noticable deformed teeth, pedalling with some force/torque (42-29)
sounded exactly like chain suck circumstances, so, without much
thinking, I imagined that the OP suffered from some kind of proto-
chain suck, where the chain instead of falling between the chain rings
just fell down on the granny ring.
I still think that the worn 42T chainring is at least a contributing
factor in the chain drop, but it is not chain suck.
--
Regards
Peter S.
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Date: 08 Aug 2007 16:25:44
From: mike.a.schwab@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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On Aug 7, 11:48 am, "Michigan John" <michiganj...@worldnet.att.net >
wrote:
> I run a Campy triple crank. In the past few weeks, when the chain it on the
> 42t middle ring, and on the 29t granny cog, the chain drops to the granny
> ring.
>
<deleted >
> John
Have you fine tuned the front derailer so that it rides just a little
more to left (big ring) side? Or are you experiencing any rub if you
adjust it that way?
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Date: 09 Aug 2007 14:11:53
From: Michigan John
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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I don't usually have front der rub, but I can hold the chain on the 42t,
preventing the drop, by trimming a slight rub on the chain -- not the smart
way to ride, tho.
Thanks to all for your input. I'll replace the ring and the problem will
probably go away.
<mike.a.schwab@gmail.com > wrote in message
news:1186590344.006248.110390@x40g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
> On Aug 7, 11:48 am, "Michigan John" <michiganj...@worldnet.att.net>
> wrote:
>> I run a Campy triple crank. In the past few weeks, when the chain it on
>> the
>> 42t middle ring, and on the 29t granny cog, the chain drops to the granny
>> ring.
>>
> <deleted>
>> John
>
> Have you fine tuned the front derailer so that it rides just a little
> more to left (big ring) side? Or are you experiencing any rub if you
> adjust it that way?
>
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Date: 08 Aug 2007 12:50:52
From: Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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On Aug 7, 2:26 pm, phs...@gmail.com wrote:
> Michigan John skrev:
>
> > I run a Campy triple crank. In the past few weeks, when the chain it on the
> > 42t middle ring, and on the 29t granny cog, the chain drops to the granny
> > ring.
>
> > The chain is the narrowest Campy 10sp chain, about 65% percent worn as
> > measured by a Parker 'drop in' chain gauge. The 42t chainring has a lot more
> > wear, maybe 8 chains have been replaced since I put it on, and the teeth are
> > noticeable deformed.
>
> If you google for "chain suck" you will see that chain suck (or chain
> drop as you call it) almost allways is caused by worn or very dirty
> chain rings. It is especially bad when using a new chain on a worn
> chain ring. Trippels with long derailleurs also experience chainsuck
> much more frequently than doubles does..
> See also:http://fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/
>
> The solution is of course to change the worn chain ring(s). No need to
> change cassette or chain at the same time.
>
> --
> Regards
> Peter S.
Not to be picky but having the chain come off the middle to the small
when riding is not chainsuck at all. Chainsuck is when the rings are
dirty/worn(as you mentioned) and the chain travels up the ring on the
bottom portion of the chainring and gets stuck/smacks the chainstay
from the underside. Having the chain come off the top of the rings is
not really chainsuck.
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Date: 08 Aug 2007 12:48:37
From: Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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On Aug 7, 1:30 pm, JG <j...@cox.net > wrote:
> Why are you using a 10s chain? You don't mention switching cassettes,
> nor specify that it is a 10s triple. Isn't this a common problem with
> 10s chains??
>
> JG
Not the OP but a 10s chain, along with 10s cogsets, will work fine on
any triple crank, whether they be 8, 9 or 10s. Not common with 10s
chains at all.
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Date: 08 Aug 2007 12:45:37
From: jbollyn@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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On Aug 7, 11:48 am, "Michigan John" <michiganj...@worldnet.att.net >
wrote:
> I run a Campy triple crank. In the past few weeks, when the chain it on the
> 42t middle ring, and on the 29t granny cog, the chain drops to the granny
> ring.
>
> The chain is the narrowest Campy 10sp chain, about 65% percent worn as
> measured by a Parker 'drop in' chain gauge. The 42t chainring has a lot more
> wear, maybe 8 chains have been replaced since I put it on, and the teeth are
> noticeable deformed.
>
> My theory is the chainring needs replacing. But it's my first ultra-narrow
> Campy chain, so that might have something to do with it.
>
> I'd appreciate some other opinion.
>
> John
S**t happens - J.
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Date: 07 Aug 2007 13:26:56
From:
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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Michigan John skrev:
> I run a Campy triple crank. In the past few weeks, when the chain it on the
> 42t middle ring, and on the 29t granny cog, the chain drops to the granny
> ring.
>
> The chain is the narrowest Campy 10sp chain, about 65% percent worn as
> measured by a Parker 'drop in' chain gauge. The 42t chainring has a lot more
> wear, maybe 8 chains have been replaced since I put it on, and the teeth are
> noticeable deformed.
If you google for "chain suck" you will see that chain suck (or chain
drop as you call it) almost allways is caused by worn or very dirty
chain rings. It is especially bad when using a new chain on a worn
chain ring. Trippels with long derailleurs also experience chainsuck
much more frequently than doubles does..
See also:
http://fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/
The solution is of course to change the worn chain ring(s). No need to
change cassette or chain at the same time.
--
Regards
Peter S.
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Date: 07 Aug 2007 12:30:09
From: JG
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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Why are you using a 10s chain? You don't mention switching cassettes,
nor specify that it is a 10s triple. Isn't this a common problem with
10s chains??
JG
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Date: 07 Aug 2007 18:39:51
From: Werehatrack
Subject: Re: Likely cause of chaindrop?
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On Tue, 07 Aug 2007 16:48:04 GMT, "Michigan John"
<michiganjohn@worldnet.att.net > wrote:
>I run a Campy triple crank. In the past few weeks, when the chain it on the
>42t middle ring, and on the 29t granny cog, the chain drops to the granny
>ring.
>
>The chain is the narrowest Campy 10sp chain, about 65% percent worn as
>measured by a Parker 'drop in' chain gauge. The 42t chainring has a lot more
>wear, maybe 8 chains have been replaced since I put it on, and the teeth are
>noticeable deformed.
>
>My theory is the chainring needs replacing. But it's my first ultra-narrow
>Campy chain, so that might have something to do with it.
>
>I'd appreciate some other opinion.
If you know that a part is worn out, and you are having a problem that
may be related to that wear, then replacing the worn item is the place
to start. If the problem persists, you have eliminated that possible
source without wasting money; if it is alleviated, you've accomplished
your goal and don't have to continue.
IMO, it is always worthwhile to start by fixing that which you already
know is wrong.
Yes, a worn sprocket can cause a chain to walk off, particularly (IME)
if the wear has caused burrs to build up on the sides of the teeth.
I've only seen that on aluminum sprockets, but it caused a new chain
to both jump off of the front and go into chainsuck in the most recent
case. Filing off the burrs cured those two ills, but the sprocket was
worn enough that there were still problems. Replacing the chainring
took care of the rest of the issues.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
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