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Date: 17 Oct 2007 21:22:24
From: Andrew Martin
Subject: Lite Bash-Ring - 44t?
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In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt? There's one on PricePoint,
but it's 6mm wide and weighs over a pound. This is for a single-speed
cross bike...so I'm not down for that sort of weight penalty. There
are a number of polycarb options that would be fine (50g), but they
only go to 36. I'm not all that knowledgeable on the mtn bike
industry offerings, so I'm looking for a little insight.
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Date: 18 Oct 2007 19:18:59
From: Andrew Martin
Subject: Re: Lite Bash-Ring - 44t?
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On Oct 18, 11:03 am, Chalo <chalo.col...@gmail.com > wrote:
> bookieb wrote:
>
> > Chalo wrote:
>
> > > A Muzi wrote:
>
> > > > Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
>
> > > I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
> > > (turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
> > > big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
> > > chain on a 44t ring.
>
> > Then how about not removing the teeth?
> > OK, it won't slide over an obstacle like a "real" bash guard, but it
> > will protect the chain ring inside it.
>
> I don't know about the OP's motivations, but I use a "bashguard" to
> keep my pants out of the works, and to keep the chain from unshipping
> on the outside. There's no bashing involved.
>
> Using a regular chainring would help hold the chain in place, but the
> teeth would still be able to foul my clothing.
>
> Chalo- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thx Chalo - that's another point I didn't mention. It's easy to keep
the outside ring clean if it's smooth (like a chain guard) rather than
a knarled chainring. Vuelta makes a simple looking guard as well, so
I'm going to go with one of those.
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Date: 18 Oct 2007 18:03:15
From: Chalo
Subject: Re: Lite Bash-Ring - 44t?
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bookieb wrote:
>
> Chalo wrote:
> >
> > A Muzi wrote:
> > >
> > > Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
> >
> > I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
> > (turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
> > big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
> > chain on a 44t ring.
>
> Then how about not removing the teeth?
> OK, it won't slide over an obstacle like a "real" bash guard, but it
> will protect the chain ring inside it.
I don't know about the OP's motivations, but I use a "bashguard" to
keep my pants out of the works, and to keep the chain from unshipping
on the outside. There's no bashing involved.
Using a regular chainring would help hold the chain in place, but the
teeth would still be able to foul my clothing.
Chalo
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Date: 18 Oct 2007 07:13:05
From: bookieb
Subject: Re: Lite Bash-Ring - 44t?
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On Oct 18, 5:05 am, Chalo <chalo.col...@gmail.com > wrote:
> A Muzi wrote:
>
> > Andrew Martin wrote:
>
> > > In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
> > > the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
> > > make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt?
>
> > Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
>
> I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
> (turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
> big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
> chain on a 44t ring.
>
> Chalo
Then how about not removing the teeth?
OK, it won't slide over an obstacle like a "real" bash guard, but it
will protect the chain ring inside it.
I would have thought of a rock ring on an CX bike as protection
against an unintentional smash, rather than for deliberately hitting
obstacles then sliding/hopping over them. If that's correct, the
teeth on the chainring won't matter so much, though they will look a
bit naff.
bookieb
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Date: 18 Oct 2007 06:28:59
From: Andrew Martin
Subject: Re: Lite Bash-Ring - 44t?
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On Oct 17, 9:05 pm, Chalo <chalo.col...@gmail.com > wrote:
> A Muzi wrote:
>
> > Andrew Martin wrote:
>
> > > In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
> > > the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
> > > make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt?
>
> > Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
>
> I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
> (turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
> big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
> chain on a 44t ring.
>
> Chalo
Yeah - I have a 53t campy "chain guard" that I filed down from when I
ran 1x8 campy for cross.
I did find a Salsa option...but it's beefy and ugly as sin:
104mm / Black 44 4
http://www.salsacycles.com/chainrings.html
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Date: 18 Oct 2007 04:05:26
From: Chalo
Subject: Re: Lite Bash-Ring - 44t?
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A Muzi wrote:
>
> Andrew Martin wrote:
> >
> > In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
> > the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
> > make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt?
>
> Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
(turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
chain on a 44t ring.
Chalo
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Date: 17 Oct 2007 20:24:43
From: A Muzi
Subject: Re: Lite Bash-Ring - 44t?
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Andrew Martin wrote:
> In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
> the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
> make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt? There's one on PricePoint,
> but it's 6mm wide and weighs over a pound. This is for a single-speed
> cross bike...so I'm not down for that sort of weight penalty. There
> are a number of polycarb options that would be fine (50g), but they
> only go to 36. I'm not all that knowledgeable on the mtn bike
> industry offerings, so I'm looking for a little insight.
Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
A pound of bashguard sounds like it may actually work, as opposed to
'poser' plastic guards. If you are riding where the likelihood of you
and your bike landing crank-first on a log or rock is real, get the
heavy one. Otherwise whichever looks good to you.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
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