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Main
Date: 18 Aug 2007 06:54:01
From: bryanska
Subject: Looking to upgrade Fuji Touring components - help me figure it out?
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I have a 2004 Fuji Touring with some cheap components, and I want to
figure out some upgrades.
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First, the crankset. It's a RPM-branded triple 30-42-52. I'm not happy
with the cranks and would like to replace them.
The bottom bracket is square taper. What measurements do I need to
take, in order to determine what replacement brackets I could buy?
I'm hoping to find a 105 or higher triple crankset, used, on Ebay. Can
I bring the pedals closer to the frame? The bottom brakcet seems
pretty wide.
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Second, I have a problem with the integrated shifters and how they sit
on the bars.
I like horizontal drop tails and a nice flat surface for my hands on
the hoods. However, with the shape of my bars & shifters I cannot have
both. The Tiagras won't provide a horizontal top-of-hood without the
bars rotated way back. This puts the drop flats at an uncomfortable
angle.
I tried unwrapping the bars and moving the shifters back toward the
rider. However, now I can't use the brakes while in the drop curves,
because they're rotated upwards and I can't reach.
Does anyone make alloy drop bars with a long, flat reach forwards
prior to sweeping under? I've seen plenty of gradual drop bars, but
I'd have a nice flat top-of-hood grip and horizontal drop tails if
only the bars dropped off quickly instead of gradually. (I believe
Ritchey might make a cyclocross bar like this?)
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Any thoughts? I am grateful for the help.
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Date: 20 Aug 2007 03:19:53
From: datakoll
Subject: Re: Looking to upgrade Fuji Touring components - help me figure it out?
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nashbar's selling out before the notes come due. see if there's Deore
in stock. 105 octalinks give good wear. there's a touring toothed
deore set in there somewhere as of 2-3 weeks ago, lowers hi hi down to
the 14 tooth cog here, shifting the upwind big ring use toward the
middle cogs-under load.
All Deore in black can't be beat for touring.
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Date: 18 Aug 2007 17:40:11
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Looking to upgrade Fuji Touring components - help me figure it out?
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On Aug 18, 11:59 am, bryanska <BARRELB...@HOTMAIL.COM > wrote:
> >Width is the spindle width. If you change the BB width you can hose the
> > chainline, but perhaps it's possible.
>
> Thank you! This is exactly the stuff I am clueless about.
>
> I was thinking of getting this nice used 105 triple crank and matching
> bottom brakcet on Ebay:http://tinyurl.com/25owad
>
> It's a 9-speed triple. I currently have the required 9-speed narrow
> chain and a SRAM 7.0 9-speed casette in back. With these parts, will I
> mess up the chainline?
>
> I would need a new bottom bracket if I upgraded the crankset to
> something newer. I want to upgrade the crankset because it's flexy and
> heavy.
>
> Bars: get some classic Nittos, which are also very affordable. Classic
> Maes, Dream, Noodle, and if ya
>
> > wanna get all Frenchie on us--rock a Randonneur bar.
>
> Only thing, none of these bars differs very much from what I have. The
> forward arc of the drop starts too soon and I will have the same
> problem as before, and also lose the ergo palm bend in my current bar.
>
> The root problem is actually the long top tube. I've got a super short
> stem with a small rise, so I've brought the stem as close as possible.
Is this the bar ya got: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/02fuji/images/touring_lg.jpg
Then the top indeed slopes down when the bottom is level. It won't do
that on the Nitto Noodle. Look:
http://tinyurl.com/35qhle
A lot of folks like Ritchey Biomax tops, which are really flat. I've
got some, and while I love the tops and how they transition into the
hood, I hate the drops. You might like 'em. Very shallow drops, which
might be right up your alley.
http://tinyurl.com/2qhmmt
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Date: 18 Aug 2007 09:59:10
From: bryanska
Subject: Re: Looking to upgrade Fuji Touring components - help me figure it out?
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>Width is the spindle width. If you change the BB width you can hose the
> chainline, but perhaps it's possible.
Thank you! This is exactly the stuff I am clueless about.
I was thinking of getting this nice used 105 triple crank and matching
bottom brakcet on Ebay: http://tinyurl.com/25owad
It's a 9-speed triple. I currently have the required 9-speed narrow
chain and a SRAM 7.0 9-speed casette in back. With these parts, will I
mess up the chainline?
I would need a new bottom bracket if I upgraded the crankset to
something newer. I want to upgrade the crankset because it's flexy and
heavy.
Bars: get some classic Nittos, which are also very affordable. Classic
Maes, Dream, Noodle, and if ya
> wanna get all Frenchie on us--rock a Randonneur bar.
Only thing, none of these bars differs very much from what I have. The
forward arc of the drop starts too soon and I will have the same
problem as before, and also lose the ergo palm bend in my current bar.
The root problem is actually the long top tube. I've got a super short
stem with a small rise, so I've brought the stem as close as possible.
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Date: 18 Aug 2007 16:37:08
From: landotter
Subject: Re: Looking to upgrade Fuji Touring components - help me figure it out?
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On Aug 18, 8:54 am, bryanska <BARRELB...@HOTMAIL.COM > wrote:
> I have a 2004 Fuji Touring with some cheap components, and I want to
> figure out some upgrades.
>
> --------------
>
> First, the crankset. It's a RPM-branded triple 30-42-52. I'm not happy
> with the cranks and would like to replace them.
>
> The bottom bracket is square taper. What measurements do I need to
> take, in order to determine what replacement brackets I could buy?
>
> I'm hoping to find a 105 or higher triple crankset, used, on Ebay. Can
> I bring the pedals closer to the frame? The bottom brakcet seems
> pretty wide.
>
> --------------
>
> Second, I have a problem with the integrated shifters and how they sit
> on the bars.
>
> I like horizontal drop tails and a nice flat surface for my hands on
> the hoods. However, with the shape of my bars & shifters I cannot have
> both. The Tiagras won't provide a horizontal top-of-hood without the
> bars rotated way back. This puts the drop flats at an uncomfortable
> angle.
>
> I tried unwrapping the bars and moving the shifters back toward the
> rider. However, now I can't use the brakes while in the drop curves,
> because they're rotated upwards and I can't reach.
>
> Does anyone make alloy drop bars with a long, flat reach forwards
> prior to sweeping under? I've seen plenty of gradual drop bars, but
> I'd have a nice flat top-of-hood grip and horizontal drop tails if
> only the bars dropped off quickly instead of gradually. (I believe
> Ritchey might make a cyclocross bar like this?)
>
What's wrong with the crankset short of not being fancy? I'd go for a
Sugino triple if I wanted to upgrade. Classic and affordable. Bottom
brackets are boring, get a cheap Shimano and forget about it. Width is
the spindle width. If you change the BB width you can hose the
chainline, but perhaps it's possible. Bars: get some classic Nittos,
which are also very affordable. Classic Maes, Dream, Noodle, and if ya
wanna get all Frenchie on us--rock a Randonneur bar.
http://tinyurl.com/326h6k
http://tinyurl.com/2lg8zl
http://tinyurl.com/374oa6
http://tinyurl.com/2qt23o
Make sure you have the right size stem, some of the Nittos are 25.4
and some are 26.
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