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Main
Date: 02 Jul 2007 06:24:14
From: jw
Subject: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
this is a general question).
The problem I've had in the past is that the rear derailler can be
calibrated and will shift normally for 30-40 miles. However, in time,
it tends to always start having issues staying calibrated. When I
shift between 11th and 12th gear seems to be the worst, and the
bicycle seems to jump between those two gears. A little tweak to the
adjusting barrel can get me on my way again, but the same problem
happens down the road.
Could it be that something needs to be tightened? Replaced?
Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
it is at all possible.
Thanks!
--
jw
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Date: 02 Jul 2007 21:24:34
From: JeffWills
Subject: Re: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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On Jul 2, 5:24 am, jw <jonwolgam...@gmail.com > wrote:
> I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
> components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
> this is a general question).
<snip >
> Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
> has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
> it is at all possible.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> jw
While you're checking things, make sure that any housing stops aren't
creeping from where they were originally put. This can be a problem if
you have clamp-on cable stops.
FWIW: I have Shimano shifters & derailleurs on my Tour Easy:
http://home.comcast.net/~jeff_wills/jeff-big.jpg . Despite miles of
cable housing and somewhat mismatched componentry, it indexes
perfectly and had stayed in adjustment for ages.
other JW
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Date: 02 Jul 2007 18:15:45
From: Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman
Subject: Re: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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On Jul 2, 1:41 pm, R. Brickston wrote:
> Jon Wolgam wrote...
>
> > On Jul 2, 9:02 am, MkTm? wrote:
> > > jw wrote:
> > > > I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
> > > > components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
> > > > this is a general question).
>
> > > > The problem I've had in the past is that the rear derailler can be
> > > > calibrated and will shift normally for 30-40 miles. However, in time,
> > > > it tends to always start having issues staying calibrated. When I
> > > > shift between 11th and 12th gear seems to be the worst, and the
> > > > bicycle seems to jump between those two gears. A little tweak to the
> > > > adjusting barrel can get me on my way again, but the same problem
> > > > happens down the road.
>
> > > > Could it be that something needs to be tightened? Replaced?
>
> > > > Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
> > > > has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
> > > > it is at all possible.
>
> > > > Thanks!
>
> > > Not one of the gurus here but I had a similar problem with an upright
> > > bike. It turned out to be the cable housing. I had about 10,000 miles on
> > > the bike at that point so wear was a factor. The cable had more
> > > internal resistance than allowed for by the shift mechanism design.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > MKTM, thanks for the reply. I just replaced my cable housing with
> > high performance/low resistance cables. I was hoping that was the
> > problem initially, but sadly brand new (and supposedly good) cables
> > did not do the trick. :-[
>
> Check the cable from shifter to dr for being laid out in gentle curving
> bends, particularly the final one into the dr.
Setting up rear shifting and (non-hydraulic) rear brake lines on
recumbents can take some trial and error compared to an upright
bicycle where "standard" routing patterns usually work well. The
longer than normal length does not improve matters.
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
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Date: 03 Jul 2007 01:26:57
From: RBrickston
Subject: Re: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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In article <1183425345.295599.291040@o61g2000hsh.googlegroups.com >,
sunsetss0003@yahoo.com says...
> On Jul 2, 1:41 pm, R. Brickston wrote:
> > Jon Wolgam wrote...
> >
> > > On Jul 2, 9:02 am, MkTm? wrote:
> > > > jw wrote:
> > > > > I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
> > > > > components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
> > > > > this is a general question).
> >
> > > > > The problem I've had in the past is that the rear derailler can be
> > > > > calibrated and will shift normally for 30-40 miles. However, in time,
> > > > > it tends to always start having issues staying calibrated. When I
> > > > > shift between 11th and 12th gear seems to be the worst, and the
> > > > > bicycle seems to jump between those two gears. A little tweak to the
> > > > > adjusting barrel can get me on my way again, but the same problem
> > > > > happens down the road.
> >
> > > > > Could it be that something needs to be tightened? Replaced?
> >
> > > > > Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
> > > > > has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
> > > > > it is at all possible.
> >
> > > > > Thanks!
> >
> > > > Not one of the gurus here but I had a similar problem with an upright
> > > > bike. It turned out to be the cable housing. I had about 10,000 miles on
> > > > the bike at that point so wear was a factor. The cable had more
> > > > internal resistance than allowed for by the shift mechanism design.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > > MKTM, thanks for the reply. I just replaced my cable housing with
> > > high performance/low resistance cables. I was hoping that was the
> > > problem initially, but sadly brand new (and supposedly good) cables
> > > did not do the trick. :-[
> >
> > Check the cable from shifter to dr for being laid out in gentle curving
> > bends, particularly the final one into the dr.
>
> Setting up rear shifting and (non-hydraulic) rear brake lines on
> recumbents can take some trial and error compared to an upright
> bicycle where "standard" routing patterns usually work well. The
> longer than normal length does not improve matters.
>
> --
> Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
> The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
>
Exactly. [echo on] Check the cable from shifter to dr for being laid out
in gentle curving bends, particularly the final one into the dr. [echo
off]
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Date: 02 Jul 2007 07:30:22
From: Tom Nakashima
Subject: Re: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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"jw" <jonwolgamuth@gmail.com > wrote in message
news:1183382654.491616.6540@57g2000hsv.googlegroups.com...
> I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
> components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
> this is a general question).
>
> The problem I've had in the past is that the rear derailler can be
> calibrated and will shift normally for 30-40 miles. However, in time,
> it tends to always start having issues staying calibrated. When I
> shift between 11th and 12th gear seems to be the worst, and the
> bicycle seems to jump between those two gears. A little tweak to the
> adjusting barrel can get me on my way again, but the same problem
> happens down the road.
>
> Could it be that something needs to be tightened? Replaced?
>
> Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
> has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
> it is at all possible.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> jw
>
Sometimes a little light oil lube will fix the problem. Put the bike on
a bike stand, clean and lube the pivot points of the derailleur. Shift
through the gears. I usually do this before I touch the fore and aft
adjustments on the derailleur. The barrel is to fine-tune the sweet-
spot of the gears.
good luck,
-tom
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Date: 02 Jul 2007 07:31:01
From: jw
Subject: Re: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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On Jul 2, 9:02 am, MkTm <M...@NOSPAM.invalid > wrote:
> jw wrote:
> > I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
> > components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
> > this is a general question).
>
> > The problem I've had in the past is that the rear derailler can be
> > calibrated and will shift normally for 30-40 miles. However, in time,
> > it tends to always start having issues staying calibrated. When I
> > shift between 11th and 12th gear seems to be the worst, and the
> > bicycle seems to jump between those two gears. A little tweak to the
> > adjusting barrel can get me on my way again, but the same problem
> > happens down the road.
>
> > Could it be that something needs to be tightened? Replaced?
>
> > Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
> > has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
> > it is at all possible.
>
> > Thanks!
>
> > --
> > jw
>
> Not one of the gurus here but I had a similar problem with an upright
> bike. It turned out to be the cable housing. I had about 10,000 miles on
> the bike at that point so wear was a factor. The cable had more
> internal resistance than allowed for by the shift mechanism design.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
MKTM, thanks for the reply. I just replaced my cable housing with
high performance/low resistance cables. I was hoping that was the
problem initially, but sadly brand new (and supposedly good) cables
did not do the trick. :-[
--
jw
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Date: 02 Jul 2007 18:41:45
From: RBrickston
Subject: Re: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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In article <1183386661.051864.24890@w5g2000hsg.googlegroups.com >,
jonwolgamuth@gmail.com says...
> On Jul 2, 9:02 am, MkTm <M...@NOSPAM.invalid> wrote:
> > jw wrote:
> > > I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
> > > components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
> > > this is a general question).
> >
> > > The problem I've had in the past is that the rear derailler can be
> > > calibrated and will shift normally for 30-40 miles. However, in time,
> > > it tends to always start having issues staying calibrated. When I
> > > shift between 11th and 12th gear seems to be the worst, and the
> > > bicycle seems to jump between those two gears. A little tweak to the
> > > adjusting barrel can get me on my way again, but the same problem
> > > happens down the road.
> >
> > > Could it be that something needs to be tightened? Replaced?
> >
> > > Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
> > > has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
> > > it is at all possible.
> >
> > > Thanks!
> >
> > > --
> > > jw
> >
> > Not one of the gurus here but I had a similar problem with an upright
> > bike. It turned out to be the cable housing. I had about 10,000 miles on
> > the bike at that point so wear was a factor. The cable had more
> > internal resistance than allowed for by the shift mechanism design.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
>
> MKTM, thanks for the reply. I just replaced my cable housing with
> high performance/low resistance cables. I was hoping that was the
> problem initially, but sadly brand new (and supposedly good) cables
> did not do the trick. :-[
>
> --
> jw
>
Check the cable from shifter to dr for being laid out in gentle curving
bends, particularly the final one into the dr.
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Date: 02 Jul 2007 10:45:43
From: Paul Myron Hobson
Subject: Re: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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jw wrote:
> On Jul 2, 9:02 am, MkTm <M...@NOSPAM.invalid> wrote:
>> jw wrote:
>>> I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
>>> components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
>>> this is a general question).
>>> The problem I've had in the past is that the rear derailler can be
>>> calibrated and will shift normally for 30-40 miles. However, in time,
>>> it tends to always start having issues staying calibrated. When I
>>> shift between 11th and 12th gear seems to be the worst, and the
>>> bicycle seems to jump between those two gears. A little tweak to the
>>> adjusting barrel can get me on my way again, but the same problem
>>> happens down the road.
>>> Could it be that something needs to be tightened? Replaced?
>>> Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
>>> has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
>>> it is at all possible.
>>> Thanks!
>>> --
>>> jw
>> Not one of the gurus here but I had a similar problem with an upright
>> bike. It turned out to be the cable housing. I had about 10,000 miles on
>> the bike at that point so wear was a factor. The cable had more
>> internal resistance than allowed for by the shift mechanism design.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>
> MKTM, thanks for the reply. I just replaced my cable housing with
> high performance/low resistance cables. I was hoping that was the
> problem initially, but sadly brand new (and supposedly good) cables
> did not do the trick. :-[
Did you put the ferrules on the ends? The housing's guts can pull
through the exterior without those.
(justaguess)
\\paul
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Date: 02 Jul 2007 13:51:10
From: dvt
Subject: Re: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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Paul Myron Hobson wrote:
> jw wrote:
>> On Jul 2, 9:02 am, MkTm <M...@NOSPAM.invalid> wrote:
>>> jw wrote:
>>>> I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
>>>> components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
>>>> this is a general question).
>>>> The problem I've had in the past is that the rear derailler can be
>>>> calibrated and will shift normally for 30-40 miles. However, in time,
>>>> it tends to always start having issues staying calibrated. When I
>>>> shift between 11th and 12th gear seems to be the worst, and the
>>>> bicycle seems to jump between those two gears. A little tweak to the
>>>> adjusting barrel can get me on my way again, but the same problem
>>>> happens down the road.
>>>> Could it be that something needs to be tightened? Replaced?
>>>> Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
>>>> has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
>>>> it is at all possible.
>>>> Thanks!
>>>> --
>>>> jw
>>> Not one of the gurus here but I had a similar problem with an upright
>>> bike. It turned out to be the cable housing. I had about 10,000 miles on
>>> the bike at that point so wear was a factor. The cable had more
>>> internal resistance than allowed for by the shift mechanism design.-
>>> Hide quoted text -
>>>
>>> - Show quoted text -
>>
>>
>> MKTM, thanks for the reply. I just replaced my cable housing with
>> high performance/low resistance cables. I was hoping that was the
>> problem initially, but sadly brand new (and supposedly good) cables
>> did not do the trick. :-[
>
> Did you put the ferrules on the ends? The housing's guts can pull
> through the exterior without those.
> (justaguess)
> \\paul
I second that opinion... I had the same problem, but in my case, the
cable housing had worn through the ferrules. New ferrules and housings
fixed 'er up.
--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu
Everyone confesses that exertion which brings out all the powers of body
and mind is the best thing for us; but most people do all they can to
get rid of it, and as a general rule nobody does much more than
circumstances drive them to do. -Harriet Beecher Stowe, abolitionist and
novelist (1811-1896)
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Date: 02 Jul 2007 14:02:28
From: MkTm
Subject: Re: Rear Derailler Won't Stay Calibrated?
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jw wrote:
> I've got a homebuilt 21-speed recumbent bicycle that we used Shimano
> components on (I'm sorry, I don't have the specifics, so hopefully
> this is a general question).
>
> The problem I've had in the past is that the rear derailler can be
> calibrated and will shift normally for 30-40 miles. However, in time,
> it tends to always start having issues staying calibrated. When I
> shift between 11th and 12th gear seems to be the worst, and the
> bicycle seems to jump between those two gears. A little tweak to the
> adjusting barrel can get me on my way again, but the same problem
> happens down the road.
>
> Could it be that something needs to be tightened? Replaced?
>
> Please let me know if I can provide more information. This problem
> has vexed me for some time, and I prefer to fix rather than replace if
> it is at all possible.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> jw
>
Not one of the gurus here but I had a similar problem with an upright
bike. It turned out to be the cable housing. I had about 10,000 miles on
the bike at that point so wear was a factor. The cable had more
internal resistance than allowed for by the shift mechanism design.
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