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Main
Date: 29 Oct 2007 00:05:47
From: Jeff
Subject: Soldering Cable ends
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...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of solder
and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems to bead up
and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but nothing seems to
work.
Jeff
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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Date: 01 Nov 2007 14:51:22
From: Gary Young
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 10:53:44 -0400, Sandy wrote:
> Dans le message de news:87hck6jaok.fsf@san.rr.com,
> Joe Riel <joer@san.rr.com> a réfléchi, et puis a déclaré :
>> jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org writes:
>>
>>> Tom Sherman writes:
>>>
>>>>> ...
>>>>> Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically
>>>>> impractical juries)...
>>>
>>>> All juries should be composed of engineers and scientists.
>>>
>>> You missed the part where none of these jury members asked any
>>> questions. That is the problem. They are all so macho that they
>>> think it a sign of stupidity to as, and therefore must make their
>>> decisions on emotions rather than understanding of the case.
>>
>> I missed that post. To what sort of jury are you referring? Trial
>> juries? I don't recall being allowed to ask any questions. Nor do I
>> recall a specific admonition forbidding it, but am certain that it was
>> discouraged. I've been on several civil and criminal juries.
>
> When he gets going on real life experiences, twisted as his social
> astigmatism may be, he might even convince himself they are not true. The
> Brandtian premise : I am right and there is no universe but me.
Jurors are allowed to ask questions of witnesses in some jurisdictions:
http://lawreview.kentlaw.edu/articles/78-3/mott.pdf
>
> BTW, you might ask him about how often he is NOT asked to offer testimony in
> court after having been deposed or interviewed. You see, in a court, with
> or without a jury, credibility and expertise are examined by neutral
> parties.
Do you have some evidence that he's frequently rejected as a witness
because of lack of credibility (and not, say, because his testimony
wouldn't suit the interests of the party)?
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Date: 01 Nov 2007 14:46:47
From: Gary Young
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 07:35:23 -0700, Joe Riel wrote:
> jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org writes:
>
>> Tom Sherman writes:
>>
>>>> ...
>>>> Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically impractical
>>>> juries)...
>>
>>> All juries should be composed of engineers and scientists.
>>
>> You missed the part where none of these jury members asked any
>> questions. That is the problem. They are all so macho that they
>> think it a sign of stupidity to as, and therefore must make their
>> decisions on emotions rather than understanding of the case.
>
> I missed that post. To what sort of jury are you referring? Trial
> juries? I don't recall being allowed to ask any questions. Nor do I
> recall a specific admonition forbidding it, but am certain that it was
> discouraged. I've been on several civil and criminal juries.
>
It varies from state to state. I believe it's becoming more common. Here's
a law review article on the practice:
http://lawreview.kentlaw.edu/articles/78-3/mott.pdf (pdf file)
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Date: 01 Nov 2007 07:35:23
From: Joe Riel
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org writes:
> Tom Sherman writes:
>
>>> ...
>>> Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically impractical
>>> juries)...
>
>> All juries should be composed of engineers and scientists.
>
> You missed the part where none of these jury members asked any
> questions. That is the problem. They are all so macho that they
> think it a sign of stupidity to as, and therefore must make their
> decisions on emotions rather than understanding of the case.
I missed that post. To what sort of jury are you referring? Trial
juries? I don't recall being allowed to ask any questions. Nor do I
recall a specific admonition forbidding it, but am certain that it was
discouraged. I've been on several civil and criminal juries.
--
Joe Riel
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Date: 02 Nov 2007 03:16:33
From:
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Joe Riel writes:
>>>> ... Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically
>>>> impractical juries)...
>>> All juries should be composed of engineers and scientists.
>> You missed the part where none of these jury members asked any
>> questions. That is the problem. They are all so macho that they
>> think it a sign of stupidity to ask, and therefore must make their
>> decisions on emotions rather than understanding of the case.
> I missed that post. To what sort of jury are you referring? Trial
> juries? I don't recall being allowed to ask any questions. Nor do I
> recall a specific admonition forbidding it, but am certain that it was
> discouraged. I've been on several civil and criminal juries.
We're talking about liability suits in which unwarranted damages are
awarded and precedent set.
When plaintiff's attorney is examining his expert witness and the
witness blathers jargon that no one can decipher, it is the defense's
job to object to the line questioning or ask for a clearer explanation
of what is being presented... or at least do a clearer job when
questioning that witness himself.
In one case in which I testified, the plaintiff's attorney summarized
my testimony to prove exactly the opposite of what I said. The
defense said nothing and I objected, telling the attorney to ask me if
he wants my testimony, not to create it from whole cloth. The judge
allowed my objection and instructed the attorney to not rephrase my
testimony.
In this case I and the bicycle industry prevailed. That is my purpose
in testifying in cases that are obviously "fishing trips" for money
from an industry that does not need this sort of expense.
As for the crack in the road. It seems the organizers should have
reconnoitered the route and either fill the crack, set up barriers or
use a different road. We have "century rides" in this area that go
over 4209ft Mt. Hamilton. The road has center stripe reflectors that
are sunk in square edged slots about five inches wide and an inch
deep, four to six feet long tapering in depth from both ends. This is
done to protect them from snow plows that tend the road in winter.
http://mthamilton.ucolick.org/public/pictures/snowpics/
These are hazardous to cross at small angles when descending and
riders at various times, (not in the event that I know of) fell and
broke bones when inadvertently crossing one of these gaps. I also
know of no one who has held the highway department liable. It is a
state California highway HWY130.
Jobst Brandt
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Date: 01 Nov 2007 10:53:44
From: Sandy
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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Dans le message de news:87hck6jaok.fsf@san.rr.com,
Joe Riel <joer@san.rr.com > a réfléchi, et puis a déclaré :
> jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org writes:
>
>> Tom Sherman writes:
>>
>>>> ...
>>>> Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically
>>>> impractical juries)...
>>
>>> All juries should be composed of engineers and scientists.
>>
>> You missed the part where none of these jury members asked any
>> questions. That is the problem. They are all so macho that they
>> think it a sign of stupidity to as, and therefore must make their
>> decisions on emotions rather than understanding of the case.
>
> I missed that post. To what sort of jury are you referring? Trial
> juries? I don't recall being allowed to ask any questions. Nor do I
> recall a specific admonition forbidding it, but am certain that it was
> discouraged. I've been on several civil and criminal juries.
When he gets going on real life experiences, twisted as his social
astigmatism may be, he might even convince himself they are not true. The
Brandtian premise : I am right and there is no universe but me.
BTW, you might ask him about how often he is NOT asked to offer testimony in
court after having been deposed or interviewed. You see, in a court, with
or without a jury, credibility and expertise are examined by neutral
parties.
--
Sandy
The above is guaranteed 100% free of sarcasm,
denigration, snotty remarks, indifference, platitudes, fuming demands that
"you do the math", conceited visions of a better world on wheels [or
otherwise]
according to [insert NAME here].
-
"Our knowledge is a little island in a great ocean of non-knowledge."
- Edward O. Wilson
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 18:41:53
From:
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
On Oct 30, 4:40 am, Ben C <spams...@spam.eggs > wrote:
> On 2007-10-30, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> [...]
>
> > rubbish. it's cutting cable too short that's the problem. it needs a
> > number of twists to retain shape.
>
> Interesting, so how much cable should be left protruding from the clamp?
> I normally leave a couple of inches.
On rear derailleur cables, I've taken to leaving a lot - maybe four
inches, which I coil into a little loop.
Why? Because once on a tour, my rear cable broke at the ball end (at
the barcon shifter) and I had no spare. I was _just_ able to put a
knot in the broken end to replace the ball and keep riding. I now
carry a spare cable, but I leave the extra length to make knotting
easier, for a belt-n-suspenders approach.
BTW, I run my cables under the handlebar tape. This makes a standard
length cable just a bit too short to use. That's another sad fact I
learned on the road, the hard way. The knot saved me again.
- Frank Krygowski
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 16:32:51
From: philcycles
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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_ wrote:
> On 29 Oct 2007 23:25:11 GMT, jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
> > Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
> > the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
> A plain old air-propane or air-butane flame will easily do silver solder on
> such a small part.
> For that matter, so will an alchohol flame with a blowpipe.
Absolutely. I have lots of silver and an oxy rig-I build frames-but a
hand torch, acid flux and plumber's solder really work OK even on
stainless. And of course will do silver just fine.
Phil Brown
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 14:56:38
From: Paul Kopit
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 00:05:47 -0500, "Jeff" <none@nothingX.com > wrote:
>...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
>derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of solder
>and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems to bead up
>and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but nothing seems to
>work.
I've been successful using a torch type cigarette lighter and melting
plastic into/onto the cable end.
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Date: 29 Oct 2007 21:11:40
From: me
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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"Jeff" <none@nothingX.com > wrote in message
news:47255e53$0$26403$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
>
> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends?
(snip)
Ahh...the perennial 'how to solder cut cable ends' issue. I bypass all that
fooling around with the simple expedient of a few cents worth of heat-shrink
PVC wire insulation. If you look around you can probably find it in a color
that will even coordinate with your bike's paint scheme. Just put an inch
or so over the cut cable end, leaving it sticking beyond the cable about
1/4" and heat it up with a match - too easy.
Cal
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 02:46:00
From: datakoll
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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one more time. cut cables? use a $2 walmart diagnol new and 'sharp'
place diagnol cutter on hardwood block (from skid) with cable between
jaws
hit upper (!) jay hard with 11 pound engineeers hammer from HDepot.
wear eye protection.
use also for housings
now how about some brake fluid chain lube?
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Date: 29 Oct 2007 23:56:33
From: Rex Kerr
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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On Oct 28, 10:05 pm, "Jeff" <n...@nothingX.com > wrote:
> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of solder
> and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems to bead up
> and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but nothing seems to
> work.
I gave up on solder years ago. I now push the end of the cable down
the neck of a bottle of superglue. If you dip before assembly allow
it to dry before pushing it down the housing. :-)
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Date: 29 Oct 2007 18:07:23
From: DougC
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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Jeff wrote:
>
> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems
> to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but
> nothing seems to work.
>
> Jeff
>
>
I have tried to solder them and got nowhere too. The cables in question
appeared to be stainless steel, which would explain a lot of may failure.
What I prefer to do is cut them with an emery cut-off wheel in a Dremel
moto-tool on high speed. The wires are cut so easily that they still
stay straight and the cut end can still easily be fed through a jacket,
where a "normal" pair of cable cutters (otherwise known as 'the right
tool for the job') leaves the end all bent up a mess.
~
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Date: 29 Oct 2007 23:25:11
From:
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Doug Cimper writes:
>> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
>> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types
>> of solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder
>> just seems to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable,
>> sanded it, but nothing seems to work.
> I have tried to solder them and got nowhere too. The cables in
> question appeared to be stainless steel, which would explain a lot
> of may failure.
> What I prefer to do is cut them with an emery cut-off wheel in a
> Dremel moto-tool on high speed. The wires are cut so easily that
> they still stay straight and the cut end can still easily be fed
> through a jacket, where a "normal" pair of cable cutters (otherwise
> known as 'the right tool for the job') leaves the end all bent up a
> mess.
A good pair of diagonal cutters will cut good control and brake cables
off without a splayed end because these cables are made of hard
strands that spring back to their original shape after cutting. The
real problem is anchor bolts on derailleurs and brakes that crimp the
wire and cause it to splay. I was always impressed by the brake cable
clamp on Campagnolo Record brakes that clamped the cable with no
damage regardless of how tight it was camped.
Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically impractical
juries) non-crimping clamps are hard to find. Cable crimp sleeves are
not the solution because the cable cannot be pulled out of holes into
which they were threaded.
Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
Jobst Brandt
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Date: 31 Oct 2007 22:51:09
From: Tom Sherman
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org aka Jobst Brandt wrote:
> ...
> Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically impractical
> juries)...
All juries should be composed of engineers and scientists.
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
When did ignorance of biology become a "family value"?
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Date: 01 Nov 2007 14:11:46
From:
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Tom Sherman writes:
>> ...
>> Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically impractical
>> juries)...
> All juries should be composed of engineers and scientists.
You missed the part where none of these jury members asked any
questions. That is the problem. They are all so macho that they
think it a sign of stupidity to as, and therefore must make their
decisions on emotions rather than understanding of the case.
Jobst Brandt
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Date: 31 Oct 2007 21:16:53
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Tom Sherman wrote:
> jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org aka Jobst Brandt wrote:
>> ...
>> Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically impractical
>> juries)...
>
> All juries should be composed of engineers and scientists.
>
as long as the engineers are not the kind that think they can eliminate
metal fatigue in a material that doesn't strain age.
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 07:22:35
From: Tom Nakashima
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
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<jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org > wrote in message
news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
> I was always impressed by the brake cable
> clamp on Campagnolo Record brakes that clamped the cable with no
> damage regardless of how tight it was camped.
Yes, agree with the Campagnolo Record calipers clamp, at least with the
older style. There is no damage to the cable when tightening and removing.
> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
What I used to do when tinning the brake cables with silver solder, is tin
the iron with the solder and touch the end of the brake cable, just enough
to get the solder to flow. No flux is necessary.
Today I just use the small alumn end cap crimps. Really, how often does
one need to remove and replace brake cables?
-tom
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 20:46:10
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Tom Nakashima wrote:
> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
> news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
>> I was always impressed by the brake cable
>> clamp on Campagnolo Record brakes that clamped the cable with no
>> damage regardless of how tight it was camped.
>
> Yes, agree with the Campagnolo Record calipers clamp, at least with the
> older style. There is no damage to the cable when tightening and removing.
>
>> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
>> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>
> What I used to do when tinning the brake cables with silver solder, is tin
> the iron with the solder and touch the end of the brake cable, just enough
> to get the solder to flow. No flux is necessary.
perhaps with old style galvanized cable, not with stainless. need the
right ingredients to solder that.
>
> Today I just use the small alumn end cap crimps. Really, how often does
> one need to remove and replace brake cables?
> -tom
>
>
>
>
>
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Date: 29 Oct 2007 19:54:56
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
> Doug Cimper writes:
>
>>> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
>>> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types
>>> of solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder
>>> just seems to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable,
>>> sanded it, but nothing seems to work.
>
>> I have tried to solder them and got nowhere too. The cables in
>> question appeared to be stainless steel, which would explain a lot
>> of may failure.
>
>> What I prefer to do is cut them with an emery cut-off wheel in a
>> Dremel moto-tool on high speed. The wires are cut so easily that
>> they still stay straight and the cut end can still easily be fed
>> through a jacket, where a "normal" pair of cable cutters (otherwise
>> known as 'the right tool for the job') leaves the end all bent up a
>> mess.
>
> A good pair of diagonal cutters will cut good control and brake cables
> off without a splayed end because these cables are made of hard
> strands that spring back to their original shape after cutting.
rubbish. use "piano wire" cutters.
> The
> real problem is anchor bolts on derailleurs and brakes that crimp the
> wire and cause it to splay.
rubbish. it's cutting cable too short that's the problem. it needs a
number of twists to retain shape.
> I was always impressed by the brake cable
> clamp on Campagnolo Record brakes that clamped the cable with no
> damage regardless of how tight it was camped.
>
> Today, with liability claims as they are (with technically impractical
> juries)
eh???
> non-crimping clamps are hard to find. Cable crimp sleeves are
> not the solution because the cable cannot be pulled out of holes into
> which they were threaded.
rubbish.
>
> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
some of you don't have the knowledge you mean. tin/lead solder,
electric soldering iron of sufficient wattage and acid [chloride] flux
work just fine.
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 03:40:51
From: Ben C
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
On 2007-10-30, jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net > wrote:
[...]
> rubbish. it's cutting cable too short that's the problem. it needs a
> number of twists to retain shape.
Interesting, so how much cable should be left protruding from the clamp?
I normally leave a couple of inches.
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 21:20:18
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Ben C wrote:
> On 2007-10-30, jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote:
> [...]
>> rubbish. it's cutting cable too short that's the problem. it needs a
>> number of twists to retain shape.
>
> Interesting, so how much cable should be left protruding from the clamp?
> I normally leave a couple of inches.
theoretically, three twists, but i find about 1-1.5" usually works ok.
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 01:03:24
From: _
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
On 29 Oct 2007 23:25:11 GMT, jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
>
> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>
A plain old air-propane or air-butane flame will easily do silver solder on
such a small part.
For that matter, so will an alchohol flame with a blowpipe.
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Date: 29 Oct 2007 19:25:33
From: Jeff
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
<jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org > wrote in message
news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>
> Jobst Brandt
Thanks. I have the acetylene torch and some silver solder and flux, but I
like the shrink wrap solution better. I've already done one to test and am
about to go out into my garage to finish. ...not sure that I would want to
get my acetylene torch near my bike.
J
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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Date: 29 Oct 2007 21:03:24
From: * * Chas
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
"Jeff" <none@nothingX.com > wrote in message
news:47266e27$0$26508$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
>
> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
> news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
>
> > Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
> > the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
> >
> > Jobst Brandt
>
> Thanks. I have the acetylene torch and some silver solder and flux, but
I
> like the shrink wrap solution better. I've already done one to test and
am
> about to go out into my garage to finish. ...not sure that I would want
to
> get my acetylene torch near my bike.
>
> J
I used to solder all of my cable ends with a high power soldering gun
using standard 60/40 lead-tin rosin core solder.
I've been using stainless steel cable for a number of years so I no long
solder the ends.
Are you trying to solder the cable ends installed on the bike or the bare
cables off the bike?
Brazing or soldering the cables on the bike with a torch can damage the
plastic on and inside the cable housing because heat will travel up the
cable into the housing.
The problem with using silver solder is the high melting temperature of
many silver solder/brazing alloys. Many of these alloys have a melting
temperature of 1100° F to 1650° F. I have some low silver content solder
that melts at under 900° F but that may still be too hot for use on the
bike.
Using so called hard solder with a high melting temperature seems like a
lot of work to go through considering the other options available.
Chas.
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Date: 29 Oct 2007 19:49:57
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Jeff wrote:
>
> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
> news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
>
>> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
>> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>>
>> Jobst Brandt
>
> Thanks. I have the acetylene torch and some silver solder and flux, but
> I like the shrink wrap solution better. I've already done one to test
> and am about to go out into my garage to finish. ...not sure that I
> would want to get my acetylene torch near my bike.
>
> J
>
>
don't do that - excess heat removes the temper from the cable. use
ordinary soft solder, an electric soldering iron, and the magic
ingredient, liquid acid flux, available in the plumbing department of
your local hardware store. neutralize with baking soda solution afterwards.
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 12:51:02
From: _
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 19:49:57 -0700, jim beam wrote:
> Jeff wrote:
>>
>> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
>> news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
>>
>>> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
>>> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>>>
>>> Jobst Brandt
>>
>> Thanks. I have the acetylene torch and some silver solder and flux, but
>> I like the shrink wrap solution better. I've already done one to test
>> and am about to go out into my garage to finish. ...not sure that I
>> would want to get my acetylene torch near my bike.
>>
>> J
>>
>>
>
> don't do that - excess heat removes the temper from the cable. use
> ordinary soft solder, an electric soldering iron, and the magic
> ingredient, liquid acid flux, available in the plumbing department of
> your local hardware store. neutralize with baking soda solution afterwards.
Useless advice.
The strength of the end of the cable is of no concern.
Go ahead and use your flame - "jim beam" is being an alarmist again.
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Date: 30 Oct 2007 20:47:44
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
_ wrote:
> On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 19:49:57 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>> Jeff wrote:
>>> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
>>> news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
>>>
>>>> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
>>>> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>>>>
>>>> Jobst Brandt
>>> Thanks. I have the acetylene torch and some silver solder and flux, but
>>> I like the shrink wrap solution better. I've already done one to test
>>> and am about to go out into my garage to finish. ...not sure that I
>>> would want to get my acetylene torch near my bike.
>>>
>>> J
>>>
>>>
>> don't do that - excess heat removes the temper from the cable. use
>> ordinary soft solder, an electric soldering iron, and the magic
>> ingredient, liquid acid flux, available in the plumbing department of
>> your local hardware store. neutralize with baking soda solution afterwards.
>
> Useless advice.
>
> The strength of the end of the cable is of no concern.
if the "end of the cable" means the heat affected part of the cable is
guaranteed to be outside of the is clamp, that would be fine. but
that's not guaranteed, especially with someone that doesn't understand
the problem.
to understand the problem, one has to understand that excess heat /does/
remove the temper of the cable. and an electric soldering iron, which
is not hot enough to affect the cable, is more than adequate to do the
job in the presence of the correct flux.
>
> Go ahead and use your flame - "jim beam" is being an alarmist again.
i never can understand why some people have such a problem with being
exposed to information from which they could in fact learn. especially
in matters that potentially affect safety.
|
| | | | | | | |
Date: 31 Oct 2007 13:52:50
From: _
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:47:44 -0700, jim beam wrote:
> _ wrote:
>> On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 19:49:57 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>
>>> Jeff wrote:
>>>> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
>>>> news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
>>>>
>>>>> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
>>>>> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Jobst Brandt
>>>> Thanks. I have the acetylene torch and some silver solder and flux, but
>>>> I like the shrink wrap solution better. I've already done one to test
>>>> and am about to go out into my garage to finish. ...not sure that I
>>>> would want to get my acetylene torch near my bike.
>>>>
>>>> J
>>>>
>>>>
>>> don't do that - excess heat removes the temper from the cable. use
>>> ordinary soft solder, an electric soldering iron, and the magic
>>> ingredient, liquid acid flux, available in the plumbing department of
>>> your local hardware store. neutralize with baking soda solution afterwards.
>>
>> Useless advice.
>>
>> The strength of the end of the cable is of no concern.
>
> if the "end of the cable" means the heat affected part of the cable is
> guaranteed to be outside of the is clamp, that would be fine.
What part of the cable would you be soldering? Most of us just do the end
- as would the op.
|
| | | | | | | | |
Date: 31 Oct 2007 20:38:11
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
_ wrote:
> On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:47:44 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>> _ wrote:
>>> On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 19:49:57 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>>
>>>> Jeff wrote:
>>>>> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
>>>>> news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
>>>>>
>>>>>> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
>>>>>> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jobst Brandt
>>>>> Thanks. I have the acetylene torch and some silver solder and flux, but
>>>>> I like the shrink wrap solution better. I've already done one to test
>>>>> and am about to go out into my garage to finish. ...not sure that I
>>>>> would want to get my acetylene torch near my bike.
>>>>>
>>>>> J
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> don't do that - excess heat removes the temper from the cable. use
>>>> ordinary soft solder, an electric soldering iron, and the magic
>>>> ingredient, liquid acid flux, available in the plumbing department of
>>>> your local hardware store. neutralize with baking soda solution afterwards.
>>> Useless advice.
>>>
>>> The strength of the end of the cable is of no concern.
>> if the "end of the cable" means the heat affected part of the cable is
>> guaranteed to be outside of the is clamp, that would be fine.
>
> What part of the cable would you be soldering? Most of us just do the end
> - as would the op.
i've seen people do the region above the clamp. if done with excess
heat [gas torch], that /will/ weaken the cable.
|
| | | | | | | | |
Date: 31 Oct 2007 07:05:57
From: Tom Nakashima
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
"_" <jtayNOSPAMlor@hfDONTSENDMESPAMx.andara.com > wrote in message
news:1hmof2xk5kqgz.17caknvb4uc3c$.dlg@40tude.net...
> On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:47:44 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
>> _ wrote:
>>> On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 19:49:57 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>>
>>>> Jeff wrote:
>>>>> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
>>>>> news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
>>>>>
>>>>>> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
>>>>>> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jobst Brandt
>>>>> Thanks. I have the acetylene torch and some silver solder and flux,
>>>>> but
>>>>> I like the shrink wrap solution better. I've already done one to test
>>>>> and am about to go out into my garage to finish. ...not sure that I
>>>>> would want to get my acetylene torch near my bike.
>>>>>
>>>>> J
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> don't do that - excess heat removes the temper from the cable. use
>>>> ordinary soft solder, an electric soldering iron, and the magic
>>>> ingredient, liquid acid flux, available in the plumbing department of
>>>> your local hardware store. neutralize with baking soda solution
>>>> afterwards.
>>>
>>> Useless advice.
>>>
>>> The strength of the end of the cable is of no concern.
>>
>> if the "end of the cable" means the heat affected part of the cable is
>> guaranteed to be outside of the is clamp, that would be fine.
>
> What part of the cable would you be soldering? Most of us just do the end
> - as would the op.
Really, it's only the tip of the cables, 1/16" is all you need to solder to
keep the ends from fraying. Tin the iron with silver solder, then quickly
touch the cable with the iron and the solder...."DONE!"
No flux, baking soda, or cleaner is necessary.
-tom
|
| | | | | | | | | |
Date: 31 Oct 2007 20:37:33
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Tom Nakashima wrote:
> "_" <jtayNOSPAMlor@hfDONTSENDMESPAMx.andara.com> wrote in message
> news:1hmof2xk5kqgz.17caknvb4uc3c$.dlg@40tude.net...
>> On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:47:44 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>
>>> _ wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 19:49:57 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Jeff wrote:
>>>>>> <jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:47266bd7$0$14101$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Stainless wires are easily silver soldered but most of us don't have
>>>>>>> the flux or oxy-acetylene torch to do it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Jobst Brandt
>>>>>> Thanks. I have the acetylene torch and some silver solder and flux,
>>>>>> but
>>>>>> I like the shrink wrap solution better. I've already done one to test
>>>>>> and am about to go out into my garage to finish. ...not sure that I
>>>>>> would want to get my acetylene torch near my bike.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> J
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> don't do that - excess heat removes the temper from the cable. use
>>>>> ordinary soft solder, an electric soldering iron, and the magic
>>>>> ingredient, liquid acid flux, available in the plumbing department of
>>>>> your local hardware store. neutralize with baking soda solution
>>>>> afterwards.
>>>> Useless advice.
>>>>
>>>> The strength of the end of the cable is of no concern.
>>> if the "end of the cable" means the heat affected part of the cable is
>>> guaranteed to be outside of the is clamp, that would be fine.
>> What part of the cable would you be soldering? Most of us just do the end
>> - as would the op.
>
> Really, it's only the tip of the cables, 1/16" is all you need to solder to
> keep the ends from fraying. Tin the iron with silver solder, then quickly
> touch the cable with the iron and the solder...."DONE!"
> No flux, baking soda, or cleaner is necessary.
> -tom
>
>
simply not possible with stainless - the passive oxide layer prevents
solder wetting. aggressive flux is necessary to disrupt the oxide.
|
| | | | | | | | | | |
Date: 01 Nov 2007 04:05:38
From: Ben C
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
On 2007-11-01, jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net > wrote:
> Tom Nakashima wrote:
[...]
>> Really, it's only the tip of the cables, 1/16" is all you need to solder to
>> keep the ends from fraying. Tin the iron with silver solder, then quickly
>> touch the cable with the iron and the solder...."DONE!"
>> No flux, baking soda, or cleaner is necessary.
>> -tom
>>
>>
>
> simply not possible with stainless - the passive oxide layer prevents
> solder wetting. aggressive flux is necessary to disrupt the oxide.
Can't stainless be MIG welded? i.e. with no flux-- well MIG usually
involves no flux anyway.
|
| | | | | | | | | | | |
Date: 01 Nov 2007 06:03:17
From: jim beam
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Ben C wrote:
> On 2007-11-01, jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> Tom Nakashima wrote:
> [...]
>>> Really, it's only the tip of the cables, 1/16" is all you need to solder to
>>> keep the ends from fraying. Tin the iron with silver solder, then quickly
>>> touch the cable with the iron and the solder...."DONE!"
>>> No flux, baking soda, or cleaner is necessary.
>>> -tom
>>>
>>>
>> simply not possible with stainless - the passive oxide layer prevents
>> solder wetting. aggressive flux is necessary to disrupt the oxide.
>
> Can't stainless be MIG welded? i.e. with no flux-- well MIG usually
> involves no flux anyway.
yes, of course. but that's not soft solder and a whole different heat
range! cable ends from factory are plasma cut - that melts and "seals"
the ends most effectively and the heat affected zone is only a couple of
mm. if you want to use thousands of dollars of gear to crack this nut,
use the plasma cutter, not a tig welder.
|
| | | | | | | | | |
Date: 31 Oct 2007 17:22:47
From: DougC
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Tom Nakashima wrote:
>
> Really, it's only the tip of the cables, 1/16" is all you need to solder to
> keep the ends from fraying. Tin the iron with silver solder, then quickly
> touch the cable with the iron and the solder...."DONE!"
> No flux, baking soda, or cleaner is necessary.
> -tom
>
>
You can solder the entire length of cable, but only if it is a straight
run between the brake lever and the brake.
,,,
Alternately you could switch to rod brakes.
,,,
~
|
| |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 17:31:00
From: datakoll
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Dear Jeff,
the trick is buy new teflon coated cables, maybe new housing, clean
wax with Finish Line teflon wax - let one coat dry on cable - fill
housing with FL, notice how the nipple's design to do this - and let
sit filled in sun.
BUY CABLE CRIMP ENDS
install/reinstall and crimp cable end on cable.
soldering cable end is impossible - heat inceases the multistrand
wicking action to waaaayyyy
beyond a flux capacity to reduce the flowing goop.
|
| |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 08:20:29
From: =?windows-1252?Q?SMS_=3F=3F=3F=95_=3F?=
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Jeff wrote:
>
> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems
> to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but
> nothing seems to work.
It often doesn't work anymore. It depends on the cable material. I now
use an inch or so of heat shrink tubing over the cable end. It doesn't
pull through the housing though, you have to remove and replace it if
you do cable lubrication.
|
| | |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 08:35:42
From: Tom Nakashima
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
>> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
>> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
>> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems
>> to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but nothing
>> seems to work.
>
Silver Solder...and an iron hot enough.
-tom
|
| | | |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 16:00:24
From: _
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 08:35:42 -0700, Tom Nakashima wrote:
>>> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
>>> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
>>> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems
>>> to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but nothing
>>> seems to work.
>>
>
>
> Silver Solder...and an iron hot enough.
> -tom
Irons are unlikely to get hot enough for silver solder.
Silver-bearing soft solder they would do - but the original poster's
complaint would probably still hold; the addition of a small amount
(typically ~5%) of silver to soft solder does little or nothing for wetting
the surface; for that he need a flux suitable for the metal(s) to be
joined.
|
| |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 11:52:11
From: Peter Howard
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
"Jeff" <none@nothingX.com > wrote in message
news:47255e53$0$26403$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
>
> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems to
> bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but nothing
> seems to work.
>
> Jeff
I gave up trying in this modern era of teflon coated or stainless steel
inners. Now I use a 15mm length of 3mm plastic heatshrink tubing. A lifetime
supply readily available in red blue white black and yellow from an
electronics shop and shrunk with a Bic gas lighter flame. Looks neat, keeps
cable end under control and easily peeled off if necessary with a sharp
hobby knife.
Peter.
|
| | |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 09:57:43
From: Kerry Montgomery
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
"Peter Howard" <bbrover109@bbbigpond.net.au > wrote in message
news:LPjVi.6544$CN4.3096@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>
> "Jeff" <none@nothingX.com> wrote in message
> news:47255e53$0$26403$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
>>
>> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
>> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
>> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems
>> to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but nothing
>> seems to work.
>>
>> Jeff
>
>
> I gave up trying in this modern era of teflon coated or stainless steel
> inners. Now I use a 15mm length of 3mm plastic heatshrink tubing. A
> lifetime supply readily available in red blue white black and yellow from
> an electronics shop and shrunk with a Bic gas lighter flame. Looks neat,
> keeps cable end under control and easily peeled off if necessary with a
> sharp hobby knife.
>
Peter,
Brilliant, thanks for the idea. Used to solder old cables OK, resorted to
crimp-ons for modern cables, but didn't like the frayed ends when removing
'em to regrease.
Kerry
|
| | | |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 19:19:21
From:
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Kerry Montgomery wrote:
> Peter,
> Brilliant, thanks for the idea. Used to solder old cables OK, resorted to
> crimp-ons for modern cables, but didn't like the frayed ends when removing
> 'em to regrease.
Note that a heat gun is a better heat source than a lighter. In the U.S.
they are available for about $10 on sale at Harbor Freight.
"http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35776"
I use heat shrink for a wide variety of household tasks. I did surgery
on my dishwasher racks where the plastic had come off and the metal was
rusting. I use it on a variety of clamps on the bicycle to prevent
scratching. Of course it also is useful for covering electrical
connections, for which it was designed.
|
| | | |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 17:36:22
From: Peter Howard
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
"Kerry Montgomery" <kamontgo@teleport.com > wrote in message
news:13ic48em3gr80af@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Peter Howard" <bbrover109@bbbigpond.net.au> wrote in message
> news:LPjVi.6544$CN4.3096@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>>
>> "Jeff" <none@nothingX.com> wrote in message
>> news:47255e53$0$26403$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
>>>
>>> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
>>> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
>>> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems
>>> to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but
>>> nothing seems to work.
>>>
>>> Jeff
>>
>>
>> I gave up trying in this modern era of teflon coated or stainless steel
>> inners. Now I use a 15mm length of 3mm plastic heatshrink tubing. A
>> lifetime supply readily available in red blue white black and yellow from
>> an electronics shop and shrunk with a Bic gas lighter flame. Looks neat,
>> keeps cable end under control and easily peeled off if necessary with a
>> sharp hobby knife.
>>
>
>
> Peter,
> Brilliant, thanks for the idea. Used to solder old cables OK, resorted to
> crimp-ons for modern cables, but didn't like the frayed ends when removing
> 'em to regrease.
> Kerry
>
>
:-) and see my reply to Jeff above who picked up that I meant to say 1.5mm
(or 1/16th) heatshrink.
|
| | |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 08:35:27
From: Jeff
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
"Peter Howard" <bbrover109@bbbigpond.net.au > wrote in message
news:LPjVi.6544$CN4.3096@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>
> I gave up trying in this modern era of teflon coated or stainless steel
> inners. Now I use a 15mm length of 3mm plastic heatshrink tubing. A
> lifetime supply readily available in red blue white black and yellow from
> an electronics shop and shrunk with a Bic gas lighter flame. Looks neat,
> keeps cable end under control and easily peeled off if necessary with a
> sharp hobby knife.
>
> Peter.
Yes, I like it. I have a ton of this stuff and just tried it. ...but you
sure you're using 3mm? I have 1/16th that shrinks to 1/32 (about half your
diameter) and it fits nicely. ...much cleaner than solder or end caps and
can be removed if necessary. ...might even have to go out and get some
colored stuff as mine is all black.
Thanks
Jeff
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
|
| | | |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 17:30:36
From: Peter Howard
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
"Jeff" <none@nothingX.com > wrote in message
news:4725d5c7$0$26479$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
>
> "Peter Howard" <bbrover109@bbbigpond.net.au> wrote in message
> news:LPjVi.6544$CN4.3096@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>>
>
>> I gave up trying in this modern era of teflon coated or stainless steel
>> inners. Now I use a 15mm length of 3mm plastic heatshrink tubing. A
>> lifetime supply readily available in red blue white black and yellow from
>> an electronics shop and shrunk with a Bic gas lighter flame. Looks neat,
>> keeps cable end under control and easily peeled off if necessary with a
>> sharp hobby knife.
>>
>> Peter.
>
> Yes, I like it. I have a ton of this stuff and just tried it. ...but you
> sure you're using 3mm? I have 1/16th that shrinks to 1/32 (about half your
> diameter) and it fits nicely. ...much cleaner than solder or end caps and
> can be removed if necessary. ...might even have to go out and get some
> colored stuff as mine is all black.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeff
>
>
Oops! Glad you picked that up before I misled anyone else. I just went and
looked and the stuff I have is indeed 1.5mm. I used black on my latest
cabling job with a black teflon coated wire. I mentioned the colours because
a splash of colour could make a nice accent.
I must have been thinking of the length of 3mm I bought within the last week
for a LED bike light project.
I hate those little alloy top hat caps. Crimp them too tight and the end of
cable gets distorted and frays the instant you remove the cap again. Crimp
them too loose and the cap is self-removing.
Peter
|
| |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 06:30:03
From: Peter Cole
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Jeff wrote:
>
> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems
> to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but
> nothing seems to work.
>
> Jeff
>
>
I heat the end & rub it with a stick of hot melt glue.
|
| |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 10:48:22
From: c
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Why do you want do that? I always put a kind of "hat" in lead at the
end of these cable gripped with a plier. These hats are here (in France
sold by every lbs)
c
Jeff wrote:
>
> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems
> to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but
> nothing seems to work.
>
> Jeff
>
>
|
| | |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 20:06:49
From: c
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
I am sorry, it seems that the lead 'hats' are named ferrule or tip in
English.
c wrote:
> Why do you want do that? I always put a kind of "hat" in lead at the
> end of these cable gripped with a plier. These hats are here (in France
> sold by every lbs)
>
> c
>
> Jeff wrote:
>
>>
>> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
>> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
>> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just
>> seems to bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it,
>> but nothing seems to work.
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>>
|
| | |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 21:15:00
From: dabac
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
c Wrote:
> Why do you want do that?
It makes it possible to pull the cable out of its sheath, wipe it down
regrease lightly and reinstall w/o the end fraying or getting caugh
somewhere in the sheath. Besides, it's not that unusual that the crimpe
ends come off
--
dabac
|
| |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 20:27:46
From: dabac
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
Jeff Wrote:
> ....could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends?
I believe some (der) cables are actually stainless, which would explai
their reluctance to take on solder(applied by soldering iron) rathe
well.
I've repeatedly promised myself that "the next time" I need to replac
cables I'm going to bring out the brazing gear if they won't tak
solder.
For brazing I got stuff that's compatible with stainless, but I don'
know if the higher temperature will cause more trouble than the properl
sealed cable end solves...
--
dabac
|
| |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 04:03:05
From: Ben C
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
On 2007-10-29, Jeff <none@nothingX.com > wrote:
>
> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of solder
> and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems to bead up
> and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but nothing seems to
> work.
Use a blob of glue or a crimp instead. I soldered a cheap generic cable
once easily, but then I tried it on a fancy Teflon one and as you say
nothing would stick (although I wasn't as determined as you).
|
| |
Date: 29 Oct 2007 00:03:31
From: Mike Jacoubowsky
Subject: Re: Soldering Cable ends
|
> ...could someone tell me what the tricks are to soldering brake and
> derailleur cable ends? I've now tried with a few different types of
> solder and flux and different amounts of heat and the solder just seems to
> bead up and fall off. I've degreased the cable, sanded it, but nothing
> seems to work.
>
> Jeff
There are some extremely-caustic acid fluxes that will do the job; the stuff
I used to use back in the day had all manner of nasty warning labels and
contained chemicals probably best not breathed. Crimp-style cable ends are
probably a better way to go.
--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
|
|
