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Date: 09 Aug 2007 09:42:17
From: JG
Subject: Solving my adjuster problem
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My old Ritchey frame has cantilevers and a traditional style 4mm
eyelet stop in the back without any provision for an adjuster. I had
been using a Jagwire inline adjuster on the brakeline in the front,
but it was kind of clumsy as one end was 6mm i.d. and the other 5.6mm
i.d. I suppose that may have been deliberate to allow the adjuster to
rest at an angle. When I rehoused the lines with Jagwire Ripcord, I
started worrying about protecting the housing ends with the proper
ferrules, and in looking at alternative setups, I discovered that
Jagwire does not qualify any of it's inline adjusters for brake
lines. It's probably just corporate waryness, but...
Anyway, I then hit upon the idea of using their noodle with adjuster
at the rear stop. The conical ferrule on the noodle works real well
with the eyelet, as it is securely located, but can rotate to accomode
the cable coming around the seatpost. All that was left was to
straighten out the 90 degree bend and make sure it didn't rattle
against the seattube or post... Eventually done, but in a last
attempt to sculpt the tube into an optimal shape, I manage to crimp
the tube... And it was not terribly convenient when threading the
line through the long ridgid noodle... The adjuster had worked loose
from its crimped fitting by this time, so I pulled out the Dremel and
chopped the tube down to a stump with the ferrule.
Voila! The adjuster went right back on, and now sits just above the
stop with plenty of room for the housing to conform around the
seatpost. The conical ferrule allows it to rest about 10 degrees
skewed to the side without abusing the cable. Looks like the long
term solution, unless I can ever find out what a Tektro 420.5 is all
about...
JG
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Date: 10 Aug 2007 11:09:52
From: JG
Subject: Re: Solving my adjuster problem
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On Aug 9, 10:28 pm, "Kerry Montgomery" <kamon...@teleport.com > wrote:
> "JG" <j...@cox.net> wrote in message
>
> news:1186677737.276505.201480@x40g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > My old Ritchey frame has cantilevers and a traditional style 4mm
> > eyelet stop in the back without any provision for an adjuster. I had
> > been using a Jagwire inline adjuster on the brakeline in the front,
> > but it was kind of clumsy as one end was 6mm i.d. and the other 5.6mm
> > i.d. I suppose that may have been deliberate to allow the adjuster to
> > rest at an angle. When I rehoused the lines with Jagwire Ripcord, I
> > started worrying about protecting the housing ends with the proper
> > ferrules, and in looking at alternative setups, I discovered that
> > Jagwire does not qualify any of it's inline adjusters for brake
> > lines. It's probably just corporate waryness, but...
>
> > Anyway, I then hit upon the idea of using their noodle with adjuster
> > at the rear stop. The conical ferrule on the noodle works real well
> > with the eyelet, as it is securely located, but can rotate to accomode
> > the cable coming around the seatpost. All that was left was to
> > straighten out the 90 degree bend and make sure it didn't rattle
> > against the seattube or post... Eventually done, but in a last
> > attempt to sculpt the tube into an optimal shape, I manage to crimp
> > the tube... And it was not terribly convenient when threading the
> > line through the long ridgid noodle... The adjuster had worked loose
> > from its crimped fitting by this time, so I pulled out the Dremel and
> > chopped the tube down to a stump with the ferrule.
>
> > Voila! The adjuster went right back on, and now sits just above the
> > stop with plenty of room for the housing to conform around the
> > seatpost. The conical ferrule allows it to rest about 10 degrees
> > skewed to the side without abusing the cable. Looks like the long
> > term solution, unless I can ever find out what a Tektro 420.5 is all
> > about...
>
> > JG
>
> Hi JG,
> Don't know if we had the same situation, but my aluminum Redline cyclocross
> bike had just a stop in a short section of metal tube on the rear brake
> bridge for the cable housing to butt against, with no provision for an
> adjuster. Bought the sort of adjuster that used to be part of cheap brakes
> (a threaded aluminum tube with a top section that accepts cable housing, and
> a lock nut that fits the threaded portion). Drilled and tapped the existing
> stop on the brake bridge, threaded the aluminum adjuster in, and life got
> better. Tapping it was a little trouble, as I had to kludge up an extension
> for the tap to be able to get a handle on it. Did the same thing on the
> front of the bike, too.
> Kerry- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
You are a braver man than me!-)
JG
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Date: 09 Aug 2007 22:28:00
From: Kerry Montgomery
Subject: Re: Solving my adjuster problem
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"JG" <jchg@cox.net > wrote in message
news:1186677737.276505.201480@x40g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
> My old Ritchey frame has cantilevers and a traditional style 4mm
> eyelet stop in the back without any provision for an adjuster. I had
> been using a Jagwire inline adjuster on the brakeline in the front,
> but it was kind of clumsy as one end was 6mm i.d. and the other 5.6mm
> i.d. I suppose that may have been deliberate to allow the adjuster to
> rest at an angle. When I rehoused the lines with Jagwire Ripcord, I
> started worrying about protecting the housing ends with the proper
> ferrules, and in looking at alternative setups, I discovered that
> Jagwire does not qualify any of it's inline adjusters for brake
> lines. It's probably just corporate waryness, but...
>
> Anyway, I then hit upon the idea of using their noodle with adjuster
> at the rear stop. The conical ferrule on the noodle works real well
> with the eyelet, as it is securely located, but can rotate to accomode
> the cable coming around the seatpost. All that was left was to
> straighten out the 90 degree bend and make sure it didn't rattle
> against the seattube or post... Eventually done, but in a last
> attempt to sculpt the tube into an optimal shape, I manage to crimp
> the tube... And it was not terribly convenient when threading the
> line through the long ridgid noodle... The adjuster had worked loose
> from its crimped fitting by this time, so I pulled out the Dremel and
> chopped the tube down to a stump with the ferrule.
>
> Voila! The adjuster went right back on, and now sits just above the
> stop with plenty of room for the housing to conform around the
> seatpost. The conical ferrule allows it to rest about 10 degrees
> skewed to the side without abusing the cable. Looks like the long
> term solution, unless I can ever find out what a Tektro 420.5 is all
> about...
>
> JG
>
Hi JG,
Don't know if we had the same situation, but my aluminum Redline cyclocross
bike had just a stop in a short section of metal tube on the rear brake
bridge for the cable housing to butt against, with no provision for an
adjuster. Bought the sort of adjuster that used to be part of cheap brakes
(a threaded aluminum tube with a top section that accepts cable housing, and
a lock nut that fits the threaded portion). Drilled and tapped the existing
stop on the brake bridge, threaded the aluminum adjuster in, and life got
better. Tapping it was a little trouble, as I had to kludge up an extension
for the tap to be able to get a handle on it. Did the same thing on the
front of the bike, too.
Kerry
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Date: 10 Aug 2007 20:19:08
From: RonSonic
Subject: Re: Solving my adjuster problem
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On Thu, 9 Aug 2007 22:28:00 -0700, "Kerry Montgomery" <kamontgo@teleport.com >
wrote:
>Hi JG,
>Don't know if we had the same situation, but my aluminum Redline cyclocross
>bike had just a stop in a short section of metal tube on the rear brake
>bridge for the cable housing to butt against, with no provision for an
>adjuster. Bought the sort of adjuster that used to be part of cheap brakes
>(a threaded aluminum tube with a top section that accepts cable housing, and
>a lock nut that fits the threaded portion). Drilled and tapped the existing
>stop on the brake bridge, threaded the aluminum adjuster in, and life got
>better. Tapping it was a little trouble, as I had to kludge up an extension
>for the tap to be able to get a handle on it. Did the same thing on the
>front of the bike, too.
Thanks for the report, I'm considering such a project for my ancient conquest.
Be nice to have decent adjusters.
Ron
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