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Main
Date: 14 Oct 2007 18:53:43
From: Matt O'Toole
Subject: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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What's the best way to make old brake levers (ca '95, for traditional
cantilevers) compatible with newer MTB brakes? Should a use a regular
V-brake with a V-Daptor, a Tektro Mini-V, or what? Good modulation is
important.
The problem is, I need a new suspension fork, but I don't want to replace
everything else -- brakes, brake levers, shifters, etc. I'm sick of
combing eBay for old Judy parts and other old forks with brake hangers.
Of course it would be great if clamp-on brake hangers were available.
Matt O.
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Date: 17 Oct 2007 13:52:23
From: datakoll
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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> New levers are cheaper than the adapters but either will work. MiniV
> have clearance issues, not always workable.
YCHYCAEIT
there you are 80mph sideways over the snow, tap the rear off the
snowbank head down the straight foot down and...
the experience comes to a stop as the floor pan slides up onto a 1'
drift
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Date: 19 Oct 2007 00:12:54
From: Tom Sherman
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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datakoll aka gene daniels wrote:
> ...
> there you are 80mph sideways over the snow, tap the rear off the
> snowbank head down the straight foot down and...
> the experience comes to a stop as the floor pan slides up onto a 1'
> drift
HEY! That sounds like my daily commute!
--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!
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Date: 15 Oct 2007 03:56:23
From: Ozark Bicycle
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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On Oct 14, 9:31 pm, Chalo <chalo.col...@gmail.com > wrote:
> A Muzi wrote:
>
> > MiniV have clearance issues, not always workable.
>
> What is the typical limitation on tire size for such brakes? I have a
> flat bar road bike with fattish slicks (about 38mm) whose crappy,
> crappy rear cantilevers I would like to replace with Mini-Vs if it's
> plausible.
>
> Does anybody here know the pivot-to-cable distance for Tektro Mini-
> Vs?
>
76mm on the Tektro 926A.
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Date: 14 Oct 2007 23:31:10
From: Hank Wirtz
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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On Oct 14, 11:03 pm, Matt O'Toole <mattoto...@letterboxes.org > wrote:
>
> I'm also thinking of making a cable hangar out of a brake booster.
There's this:
http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1805
A bolt-on cable hanger. As the disclaimer says, it should go on the
top loop of the sliders, not on the crown.
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Date: 15 Oct 2007 09:05:18
From: M-gineering
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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Hank Wirtz wrote:
> On Oct 14, 11:03 pm, Matt O'Toole <mattoto...@letterboxes.org> wrote:
>
>> I'm also thinking of making a cable hangar out of a brake booster.
>
>
> There's this:
> http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1805
>
> A bolt-on cable hanger. As the disclaimer says, it should go on the
> top loop of the sliders, not on the crown.
>
I'd be more inclined to try a powerhanger first, as this design doesn't
have the unstable equilibrium of the Tektro stop. With the Tektro the
brakes will fail if the bolt slips, as it is not designed to work with a
flat surface.
--
/Marten
info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl
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Date: 15 Oct 2007 21:52:42
From: Steve Watkin
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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What is a Powerhanger?
SW
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Date: 15 Oct 2007 23:26:49
From: M-gineering
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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Steve Watkin wrote:
> What is a Powerhanger?
>
> SW
>
>
www.m-gineering.nl/pwrhanger.jpg
--
/Marten
info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl
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Date: 17 Oct 2007 13:43:26
From: Jasper Janssen
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 23:26:49 +0200, M-gineering
<ikmotgeenspam@m-gineering.nl > wrote:
>Steve Watkin wrote:
>> What is a Powerhanger?
>www.m-gineering.nl/pwrhanger.jpg
Clever.
Jasper
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Date: 17 Oct 2007 14:19:32
From:
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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Jasper Janssen writes:
>>> What is a Powerhanger?
>> www.m-gineering.nl/pwrhanger.jpg
> Clever.
Clever in that they realized it required a 2:1 lever ratio of the
cable anchor and that its angles needed to be matched to that specific
fork spacing between anchor bolt to cantilever pivots. The two cable
anchor levers are so short that a bit of pad wear can ruin the
geometry as cosine error becomes limiting. The only plus I see is
more tire clearance for mud, but then that gets lost if you ride in
mud that causes rapid pad wear. I suspect this device will either get
a redesigned or go away all together.
Jobst Brandt
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Date: 24 Oct 2007 23:19:09
From: Jasper Janssen
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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On 17 Oct 2007 14:19:32 GMT, jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
>Jasper Janssen writes:
>
>>>> What is a Powerhanger?
>
>>> www.m-gineering.nl/pwrhanger.jpg
>
>> Clever.
>
>Clever in that they realized it required a 2:1 lever ratio of the
>cable anchor and that its angles needed to be matched to that specific
>fork spacing between anchor bolt to cantilever pivots. The two cable
Yes, exactly.
>anchor levers are so short that a bit of pad wear can ruin the
>geometry as cosine error becomes limiting. The only plus I see is
>more tire clearance for mud, but then that gets lost if you ride in
More clearance compared to what?
>mud that causes rapid pad wear. I suspect this device will either get
>a redesigned or go away all together.
And what exactly do you use *then* to hold the end of your outer cable?
Jasper
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Date: 15 Oct 2007 02:31:39
From: Chalo
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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A Muzi wrote:
>
> MiniV have clearance issues, not always workable.
What is the typical limitation on tire size for such brakes? I have a
flat bar road bike with fattish slicks (about 38mm) whose crappy,
crappy rear cantilevers I would like to replace with Mini-Vs if it's
plausible.
Does anybody here know the pivot-to-cable distance for Tektro Mini-
Vs?
Chalo
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Date: 14 Oct 2007 22:31:01
From: A Muzi
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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> A Muzi wrote:
>> MiniV have clearance issues, not always workable.
Chalo wrote:
> What is the typical limitation on tire size for such brakes? I have a
> flat bar road bike with fattish slicks (about 38mm) whose crappy,
> crappy rear cantilevers I would like to replace with Mini-Vs if it's
> plausible.
> Does anybody here know the pivot-to-cable distance for Tektro Mini-
> Vs?
Cable clears a 35mm tire on most bikes. Stud position might vary a small
amount.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
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Date: 15 Oct 2007 02:12:18
From: Matt O'Toole
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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On Sun, 14 Oct 2007 22:31:01 -0500, A Muzi wrote:
>> A Muzi wrote:
>>> MiniV have clearance issues, not always workable.
> Cable clears a 35mm tire on most bikes. Stud position might vary a small
> amount.
So it probably wouldn't clear a 2" MTB tire...
Matt O.
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Date: 14 Oct 2007 19:13:46
From: A Muzi
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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Matt O'Toole wrote:
> What's the best way to make old brake levers (ca '95, for traditional
> cantilevers) compatible with newer MTB brakes? Should a use a regular
> V-brake with a V-Daptor, a Tektro Mini-V, or what? Good modulation is
> important.
>
> The problem is, I need a new suspension fork, but I don't want to replace
> everything else -- brakes, brake levers, shifters, etc. I'm sick of
> combing eBay for old Judy parts and other old forks with brake hangers.
>
> Of course it would be great if clamp-on brake hangers were available.
New levers are cheaper than the adapters but either will work. MiniV
have clearance issues, not always workable.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
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Date: 15 Oct 2007 02:03:33
From: Matt O'Toole
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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On Sun, 14 Oct 2007 19:13:46 -0500, A Muzi wrote:
> Matt O'Toole wrote:
>> What's the best way to make old brake levers (ca '95, for traditional
>> cantilevers) compatible with newer MTB brakes? Should a use a regular
>> V-brake with a V-Daptor, a Tektro Mini-V, or what? Good modulation is
>> important.
>>
>> The problem is, I need a new suspension fork, but I don't want to replace
>> everything else -- brakes, brake levers, shifters, etc. I'm sick of
>> combing eBay for old Judy parts and other old forks with brake hangers.
>>
>> Of course it would be great if clamp-on brake hangers were available.
>
> New levers are cheaper than the adapters but either will work. MiniV
> have clearance issues, not always workable.
Do the adaptors work well, or are they hopelessly fiddly to set up?
This seems like the best solution, because if I get new brake levers I have to
get new shifters too.
I'm also thinking of making a cable hangar out of a brake booster.
Matt O.
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Date: 15 Oct 2007 23:13:46
From: dabac
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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Matt O'Toole Wrote:
> Do the adaptors work well, or are they hopelessly fiddly to set up?
I've used the Travel Agent and found the set-up a minor, but no
negligible trouble. The cable had to be "helped" some with a tool t
settle properly at the transition and you had to guesstimate how muc
slack you were going to end up with.
Still, no big deal. It might have you grumbling, but not cursing ou
loud
--
dabac
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Date: 14 Oct 2007 17:07:51
From: landotter
Subject: Re: V-Daptor, Mini-V, etc.
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On Oct 14, 5:53 pm, Matt O'Toole <mattoto...@letterboxes.org > wrote:
> What's the best way to make old brake levers (ca '95, for traditional
> cantilevers) compatible with newer MTB brakes? Should a use a regular
> V-brake with a V-Daptor, a Tektro Mini-V, or what? Good modulation is
> important.
>
> The problem is, I need a new suspension fork, but I don't want to replace
> everything else -- brakes, brake levers, shifters, etc. I'm sick of
> combing eBay for old Judy parts and other old forks with brake hangers.
>
> Of course it would be great if clamp-on brake hangers were available.
>
> Matt O.
Just get new brake levers, around $15 for some spiffy Tektros. If you
have integrated shifter/brake levers, the basic Shimano EZ-fire combos
used on cheapie mtbs and hybrids shift just fine and have a long pull
for vee brakes. Available for seven and eight speed clusters for $30-
ish.
If you're attached to your old kit, then use a Travel Agent. I saw a
new version that attaches inline in case you want to use the old
levers with cable disc brakes.
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