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Date: 13 Jun 2007 08:06:51
From: DougC
Subject: Various SRAM questions.....
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I have a 3x9-speed hybrid (light-mtb) flat-bar bike that came with SRAM
x5 derailleurs (rear=1:1) and grip shifts on it. The brakes are Avid
cable disks that I want to keep.
Basically, the grip shifts suck, for a couple reasons. They get changed
inadvertently and the indexing doesn't seem to line up very well (though
htat may just be some lubing needed).
Is there any way to put a friction shifter on these derailers? I don't
seem to find any SRAM shifters that have friction modes.
Alternately, what Shimano trigger-style shifters still have a friction
mode? The only thing I've heard of is to get a Shimano setup that uses
bar-end levers that do, and mount them with Paul's Thumbies.
~
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Date: 14 Jun 2007 17:20:01
From: DougC
Subject: Re: Various SRAM questions.....
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Okay, I have a totally different question now but it concerns a SRAM
product, so it's going in here....
I also have BB7 disk brakes on this bike.
The rear brake started squealing when I'd ride slowly and wasn't using
the brakes. I ended up taking the wheel off, taking the pads out and
cleaning the pads and disk with carb cleaner (didn't have any brake
cleaner handy). The rear brake stopped squealing and stopped
considerably harder, but the inboard pad adjuster dial is suddenly
EXTREMELY hard to turn, but I figured it doesn't need to be adjusted
much so I'd just get it adjusted right and forget about it.
I decided since the rear stopped so much better that I'd clean the front
brakes, and did all the same things. And now the front inboard adjuster
is EXTREMELY hard to turn too! I have no clue WTF I did, I NEVER sprayed
any cleaner or anything on the calipers.
The manual doesn't say anything about the problem. I'm 6'2, 290 lbs and
can deadlift 400+, and I can just /barely/ turn the fucking things by
hand. Even if I take the wheels off, the inboard knobs are still
FANTASTICALLY hard to turn, even though the pads all appear to be
sitting properly, and they can be moved around and pulled out freely......
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Date: 14 Jun 2007 19:34:32
From: DougC
Subject: Re: Various SRAM questions.....
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DougC wrote:
Well nuts, nevermind.
I pulled off the red caps and oiled a bit under them and on the adjuster
threads in the calipers. Mucho better now.
~
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Date: 13 Jun 2007 10:09:44
From: John Forrest Tomlinson
Subject: Re: Various SRAM questions.....
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On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 08:06:51 -0500, DougC <dcimper@norcom2000.com >
wrote:
>Is there any way to put a friction shifter on these derailers?
All or almost all derailleurs can be friction shifted. Those can for
sure.
--
JT
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Date: 13 Jun 2007 15:19:04
From: Clive George
Subject: Re: Various SRAM questions.....
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"John Forrest Tomlinson" <usenetremove@jt10000.com > wrote in message
news:0kuv63l3rujp0rnb0ea7q6lkdfrmqjf00e@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 08:06:51 -0500, DougC <dcimper@norcom2000.com>
> wrote:
>
>>Is there any way to put a friction shifter on these derailers?
>
> All or almost all derailleurs can be friction shifted. Those can for
> sure.
Even an ESP (1:1) mech? They need rather more cable pull than normal, so
wouldn't a conventional friction shifter run out of travel?
To the OP - if you want friction shifting, I reckon you'll need to go to a
non-ESP rear mech (eg shimano deore), and something like the new
thumbshifters which are bar end levers on a mounting.
But... I wouldn't do that. Index shifting for the back works pretty well IME
(even with the 1-gear hysterisis I appear to have on my drop bar bike due to
terminally inadequate maintenance). If you hate grip-shifts (I don't), get a
trigger shifter of some kind - SRAM if you want to keep the existing rear
mech or prefer their shifter, or shimano + new rear mech.
(do you have the full-width shifters or the 'half pipe' ones? The ones I use
are 9.0 half-width ones, and they work very well)
cheers,
clive
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Date: 13 Jun 2007 13:30:09
From: DougC
Subject: Re: Various SRAM questions.....
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Clive George wrote:
> .........
> But... I wouldn't do that. Index shifting for the back works pretty well
> IME (even with the 1-gear hysterisis I appear to have on my drop bar
> bike due to terminally inadequate maintenance). If you hate grip-shifts
> (I don't), get a trigger shifter of some kind - SRAM if you want to keep
> the existing rear mech or prefer their shifter, or shimano + new rear mech.
>
> (do you have the full-width shifters or the 'half pipe' ones? The ones I
> use are 9.0 half-width ones, and they work very well)
>
I don't know what you mean by "full" or "half", here is a picture of the
ones it has:
> http://www.cactusbike.com/store/control/product?category_id=SHIFTERS&product_id=SRAM073
cost =$16 a pair, not very much. I'm not real surprised that $16
shifters don't work perfect--but I have no idea if any of the
more-expensive ones would do much better.
The exact problem is that the shifting doesn't line up on all the cogs.
If the cable is adjusted to run correct on the 7-8-9 cogs, then it
doesn't quite line up on the 1-2-3 (largest) cogs, it skips and is
noisy. The cable had stretched to the point that it wouldn't even reach
the largest cog and I had the barrel adjuster on the grip turned out
pretty far, so I screwed it back in and re-tensioned the cable and
all..... but it still won't shift right on all the cogs.
It might need a bit of lubing, or maybe that wouldn't matter.
I'd bet the $200 grip shifters work great, maybe even the $100 ones work
great but for that much I could put a Shimano setup on it that would
have a friction option.
Can you change the cables that come with the SRAM trigger shifters? The
bicycle is longer than usual, a normal-length cable wouldn't reach.
~
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Date: 13 Jun 2007 19:22:37
From: Steve Gravrock
Subject: Re: Various SRAM questions.....
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On 2007-06-13, DougC <dcimper@norcom2000.com > wrote:
> I don't know what you mean by "full" or "half", here is a picture of the
> ones it has:
>> http://www.cactusbike.com/store/control/product?category_id=SHIFTERS&product_id=SRAM073
>
> cost =$16 a pair, not very much. I'm not real surprised that $16
> shifters don't work perfect--but I have no idea if any of the
> more-expensive ones would do much better.
>
> The exact problem is that the shifting doesn't line up on all the cogs.
> If the cable is adjusted to run correct on the 7-8-9 cogs, then it
> doesn't quite line up on the 1-2-3 (largest) cogs, it skips and is
> noisy. The cable had stretched to the point that it wouldn't even reach
> the largest cog and I had the barrel adjuster on the grip turned out
> pretty far, so I screwed it back in and re-tensioned the cable and
> all..... but it still won't shift right on all the cogs.
Sounds like something is wrong with your shifter, cable, or both. Is
there play in the shifter or does it snap back when you turn it not
quite enough to shift?
Switching to shifters with a shorter barrel *may* solve the accidental
shifting problem you mentioned. Switching to trigger shifters *will*.
A set of SRAM ESP trigger shifters plus new cable and housing is
probably the cheapest solution to your problems. If normal cables are
not long enough for your bike, you can cut a tandem cable short.
As long as all the parts are in good repair, indexed shifting works so
well these days that I don't see any reason to switch to friction. The
same thing goes for front indexed shifting on mountain bike drivetrains,
for that matter. If you really want to switch though, you may need to
get a non-ESP derailer to make it work so be prepared for that. Any old
thumb shifter should pull enough cable for a Shimano 9 speed rear, or if
you don't mind spending money you could mount a pair of bar-end shifters
on Paul Thumbies and have the choice between indexed and friction
shifting:
<http://www.paulcomp.com/thumbmtn.html >
Whatever you choose, I would definitely replace the cable and housing.
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Date: 13 Jun 2007 20:02:27
From: Clive George
Subject: Re: Various SRAM questions.....
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"DougC" <dcimper@norcom2000.com > wrote in message
news:cIWbi.14$9v5.10@newsfe04.lga...
> Clive George wrote:
>> .........
>> But... I wouldn't do that. Index shifting for the back works pretty well
>> IME (even with the 1-gear hysterisis I appear to have on my drop bar bike
>> due to terminally inadequate maintenance). If you hate grip-shifts (I
>> don't), get a trigger shifter of some kind - SRAM if you want to keep the
>> existing rear mech or prefer their shifter, or shimano + new rear mech.
>>
>> (do you have the full-width shifters or the 'half pipe' ones? The ones I
>> use are 9.0 half-width ones, and they work very well)
>>
>
> I don't know what you mean by "full" or "half", here is a picture of the
> ones it has:
>> http://www.cactusbike.com/store/control/product?category_id=SHIFTERS&product_id=SRAM073
See the link you've just given - they're the "half pipe" ones.
>The exact problem is that the shifting doesn't line up on all the cogs. If
>the cable is adjusted to run correct on the 7-8-9 cogs, then it doesn't
>quite line up on the 1-2-3 (largest) cogs, it skips and is noisy. The cable
>had stretched to the point that it wouldn't even reach the largest cog and
>I had the barrel adjuster on the grip turned out pretty far, so I screwed
>it back in and re-tensioned the cable and all..... but it still won't shift
>right on all the cogs.
>
>It might need a bit of lubing, or maybe that wouldn't matter.
Is the rear mech knackered? Shifting was duff on ours, because the
parallelogram bit was wonky/loose.
>I'd bet the $200 grip shifters work great, maybe even the $100 ones work
>great but for that much I could put a Shimano setup on it that would have a
>friction option.
Remember normal shimano doesn't have a friction option either - only the bar
end and downtube levers (fitted using the non-shimano mounts).
> Can you change the cables that come with the SRAM trigger shifters? The
> bicycle is longer than usual, a normal-length cable wouldn't reach.
Is it a longer bike than ours? The two bikes with gripshift are MTB tandems
:-)
Or to answer your question more accurately, you can change the cables on any
shifter. This is a good thing, since they do fail.
cheers,
clive
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Date: 13 Jun 2007 14:17:03
From: John Forrest Tomlinson
Subject: Re: Various SRAM questions.....
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On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 15:19:04 +0100, "Clive George"
<clive@xxxx-x.fsnet.co.uk > wrote:
>"John Forrest Tomlinson" <usenetremove@jt10000.com> wrote in message
>news:0kuv63l3rujp0rnb0ea7q6lkdfrmqjf00e@4ax.com...
>> On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 08:06:51 -0500, DougC <dcimper@norcom2000.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>Is there any way to put a friction shifter on these derailers?
>>
>> All or almost all derailleurs can be friction shifted. Those can for
>> sure.
>
>Even an ESP (1:1) mech? They need rather more cable pull than normal, so
>wouldn't a conventional friction shifter run out of travel?
Maybe, but there are ways to increase the cable pull -- for example,
putting some housing liner on the part of the cable that wraps around
the shifter.
--
JT
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