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Date: 17 Aug 2007 04:42:51
From: bicycle_disciple
Subject: powertap, old vs new
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I'm bidding on a 3 year old powertap pro system with wheels and
everything. The seller claims it works fine, but I was wondering if
this is a good idea at all. Are there any differences between older
powertap models and the new ones?
B.D
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Date: 17 Aug 2007 19:09:02
From: Ron Ruff
Subject: Re: powertap, old vs new
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Another consideration is that if the seller has excellent feedback,
then you should expect that it in fact "works fine"... and if it
doesn't then send it back to them for a full refund. That's my take on
ebay, anyway. Ask specific questions. If the sellers has marginal
feedback ( >99%) or worse, then don't bother.
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Date: 17 Aug 2007 12:06:16
From:
Subject: Re: powertap, old vs new
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On Aug 17, 4:42 am, bicycle_disciple <1.crazyboy.o...@gmail.com >
wrote:
> I'm bidding on a 3 year old powertap pro system with wheels and
> everything. The seller claims it works fine, but I was wondering if
> this is a good idea at all. Are there any differences between older
> powertap models and the new ones?
>
> B.D
Compared to a three-year-old model, the newest Pro model now has the
same bearing design and memory capacity as the SL.
Depending on how much use it got, you may start to think about
potential problems with the torque tube.
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Date: 24 Aug 2007 21:44:34
From: Bill Westphal
Subject: Re: powertap, old vs new
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rechungREMOVETHIS@gmail.com writes:
> On Aug 17, 4:42 am, bicycle_disciple <1.crazyboy.o...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>> I'm bidding on a 3 year old powertap pro system with wheels and
>> everything. The seller claims it works fine, but I was wondering if
>> this is a good idea at all. Are there any differences between older
>> powertap models and the new ones?
>>
>> B.D
>
> Compared to a three-year-old model, the newest Pro model now has the
> same bearing design and memory capacity as the SL.
>
> Depending on how much use it got, you may start to think about
> potential problems with the torque tube.
You can send the hub to saris and they'll rebuild it, replacing all
the innards if neccesary to make it like new, for I think ~ $150 worse
case, or $75 just to replace the bearings (which you shouldn't
replace, although it's possible) and calibrate the torque, which is
required after replacing the bearings. Call Saris to clarify. You
can actually talk to a very knowledgable person pretty quickly. The
older (pre-SL) ones are a little finnacky about the placement of the
hub receiver, possibly requiring you to adjust the distance from the
hub, i.e. placement on the seat stay or chainstay
Bill Westphal
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