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Main
Date: 01 Jun 2007 19:42:12
From: Charles Beristain
Subject: tubular glue removal
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any tips on removing old glue from a carbon rim? The glue looks a
little bumpy from multiple applications/tire removals.
I tried acetone, but it didn't do anything. Using Vittoria mastik'one
pro.
thanks
charlieb in ct
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Date: 02 Jun 2007 20:07:51
From: john
Subject: Re: tubular glue removal
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On Jun 2, 6:02 pm, John Thompson <j...@vector.os2.dhs.org > wrote:
> On 2007-06-01, Charles Beristain <charl...@prodigy.net> wrote:
>
> > any tips on removing old glue from a carbon rim? The glue looks a
> > little bumpy from multiple applications/tire removals.
>
> Traditionally, one does not remove the glue when replacing a tire.
>
> That said, the most effective means I've tried is a brass wire wheel
> mounted on a bench grinder. About 30 seconds on each wheel and the glue
> is GONE. No messy solvents; no tiresome scrubbing.
>
> N.B. I have NOT tried this on carbon rims.
>
> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-before.jpg
> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-after.jpg
> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-cleaner.jpg
>
> --
>
> John (j...@os2.dhs.org)
Wow! That's impressive!
I've used a hand held drill w/ a wire wheel, & solvent, w/ the wheel
(bike) in a truing stand (allowing the wheel to spin) & not gotten
that good of results. Just a line of red glue all the way around the
garage including on the door that was about 10 feet away. I mean I got
most of it off but not as well as yours. If I ever have to do it
again, I'll do it w/o solvent.
John
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Date: 02 Jun 2007 20:02:43
From: John Thompson
Subject: Re: tubular glue removal
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On 2007-06-01, Charles Beristain <charlieb@prodigy.net > wrote:
> any tips on removing old glue from a carbon rim? The glue looks a
> little bumpy from multiple applications/tire removals.
Traditionally, one does not remove the glue when replacing a tire.
That said, the most effective means I've tried is a brass wire wheel
mounted on a bench grinder. About 30 seconds on each wheel and the glue
is GONE. No messy solvents; no tiresome scrubbing.
N.B. I have NOT tried this on carbon rims.
http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-before.jpg
http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-after.jpg
http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-cleaner.jpg
--
John (john@os2.dhs.org)
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Date: 05 Jun 2007 09:10:48
From: * * Chas
Subject: Re: tubular glue removal
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"John Thompson" <john@vector.os2.dhs.org > wrote in message
news:slrnf644pj.b13.john@vector.os2.dhs.org...
> On 2007-06-01, Charles Beristain <charlieb@prodigy.net> wrote:
>
> > any tips on removing old glue from a carbon rim? The glue looks a
> > little bumpy from multiple applications/tire removals.
>
> Traditionally, one does not remove the glue when replacing a tire.
>
> That said, the most effective means I've tried is a brass wire wheel
> mounted on a bench grinder. About 30 seconds on each wheel and the glue
> is GONE. No messy solvents; no tiresome scrubbing.
>
> N.B. I have NOT tried this on carbon rims.
>
> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-before.jpg
> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-after.jpg
> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-cleaner.jpg
>
> --
>
> John (john@os2.dhs.org)
Thanks for the tip. I've always used paint remover/stripper - messy job.
I have 3-4 sets of sewup wheels to clean up. They haven't been used for
many years and the glue is hard on some of them.
Chas.
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Date: 05 Jun 2007 21:30:39
From: John Thompson
Subject: Re: tubular glue removal
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On 2007-06-05, * * Chas <verktygjunk@aol.spamski.com > wrote:
> "John Thompson" <john@vector.os2.dhs.org> wrote in message
> news:slrnf644pj.b13.john@vector.os2.dhs.org...
>>
>> That said, the most effective means I've tried is a brass wire wheel
>> mounted on a bench grinder. About 30 seconds on each wheel and the glue
>> is GONE. No messy solvents; no tiresome scrubbing.
>>
>> N.B. I have NOT tried this on carbon rims.
>>
>> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-before.jpg
>> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-after.jpg
>> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-cleaner.jpg
> Thanks for the tip. I've always used paint remover/stripper - messy job.
>
> I have 3-4 sets of sewup wheels to clean up. They haven't been used for
> many years and the glue is hard on some of them.
The harder the glue, the easier it is for the wire wheel to take it off.
Fresher glue can gum up the wires, making them less effective.
--
John (john@os2.dhs.org)
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Date: 06 Jun 2007 10:12:17
From: * * Chas
Subject: Re: tubular glue removal
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"John Thompson" <john@vector.os2.dhs.org > wrote in message
news:slrnf6c72f.mjn.john@vector.os2.dhs.org...
> On 2007-06-05, * * Chas <verktygjunk@aol.spamski.com> wrote:
>
> > "John Thompson" <john@vector.os2.dhs.org> wrote in message
> > news:slrnf644pj.b13.john@vector.os2.dhs.org...
> >>
> >> That said, the most effective means I've tried is a brass wire wheel
> >> mounted on a bench grinder. About 30 seconds on each wheel and the
glue
> >> is GONE. No messy solvents; no tiresome scrubbing.
> >>
> >> N.B. I have NOT tried this on carbon rims.
> >>
> >> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-before.jpg
> >> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-after.jpg
> >> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-cleaner.jpg
>
> > Thanks for the tip. I've always used paint remover/stripper - messy
job.
> >
> > I have 3-4 sets of sewup wheels to clean up. They haven't been used
for
> > many years and the glue is hard on some of them.
>
> The harder the glue, the easier it is for the wire wheel to take it off.
> Fresher glue can gum up the wires, making them less effective.
I was thinking that may be a problem.
I bought several sets of old wheels with Clement Gutta-Rude-A and that
should come off OK. I used Pastali for years and some of that stuff is
still sticky after 20+ years.
Chas.
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Date: 07 Jun 2007 22:03:47
From: still me
Subject: Re: tubular glue removal
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On Wed, 6 Jun 2007 10:12:17 -0700, "* * Chas"
<verktygjunk@aol.spamski.com > wrote:
>> The harder the glue, the easier it is for the wire wheel to take it off.
>> Fresher glue can gum up the wires, making them less effective.
>
>I was thinking that may be a problem.
>
>I bought several sets of old wheels with Clement Gutta-Rude-A and that
>should come off OK. I used Pastali for years and some of that stuff is
>still sticky after 20+ years.
Yeah, I just tried it on some 20 yo glue. It didn't really remove it,
but the burnishing process made the resulting goo much easier to
remove with laq thinner.
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Date: 04 Jun 2007 09:18:55
From: RonSonic
Subject: Re: tubular glue removal
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On Sat, 2 Jun 2007 20:02:43 -0500, John Thompson <john@vector.os2.dhs.org >
wrote:
>On 2007-06-01, Charles Beristain <charlieb@prodigy.net> wrote:
>
>> any tips on removing old glue from a carbon rim? The glue looks a
>> little bumpy from multiple applications/tire removals.
>
>Traditionally, one does not remove the glue when replacing a tire.
>
>That said, the most effective means I've tried is a brass wire wheel
>mounted on a bench grinder. About 30 seconds on each wheel and the glue
>is GONE. No messy solvents; no tiresome scrubbing.
>
>N.B. I have NOT tried this on carbon rims.
>
> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-before.jpg
> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-after.jpg
> http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/rim-cleaner.jpg
There will come a time when I drink a beer in your honor. A beer I'll have time
for because the damn wheels are clean and done.
Ron
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Date: 01 Jun 2007 20:19:52
From: Mike Krueger
Subject: Re: tubular glue removal
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On Jun 1, 3:42 pm, Charles Beristain <charl...@prodigy.net > wrote:
> any tips on removing old glue from a carbon rim? The glue looks a
> little bumpy from multiple applications/tire removals.
>
> I tried acetone, but it didn't do anything. Using Vittoria mastik'one
> pro.
I use lacquer thinner to effectively remove Continental Special rim
cement from aluminum rims. I have also used it on Corima carbon rims,
although I do not personally guarantee the safety of doing this on
carbon fiber. I have no experience with Vittoria Mastik One.
For the record, my method is to buy a disposable aluminum foil
roasting pan and several ScotchBrite scrubbing pads from the
supermarket, and a pair of chemical-resistant rubber gloves and a
gallon of lacquer thinner from the paint store. You'll need at least a
quart of thinner and 30 min of effort to strip a pair of rims.
Do this outdoors, or in your garage with the doors open. Put down
plenty of newspaper to absorb drips. Prop up one side of the pan to
make a narrow trough. Pour about an inch of thinner into the pan.
Submerge the rim a few inches at a time and give it a few minutes to
soften the glue. Dip the ScotchBrite pad in the solvent and scrub,
scrub, scrub. When the solution becomes thick and cloudy, pour it off
and replace with fresh thinner.
Be very careful around rim decals and graphics. Lacquer thinner can
damage or obliterate decals entirely, although plastic-coated and foil
labels fare better than the old printed-ink paper ones.
You may not get all the glue out of the spoke holes, but you should
get the tire bed clean. When you are done, wipe down the rim with a
rag dampened with fresh thinner, especially along the brake tracks,
then hang the rim up to dry with the valve hole at the bottom to let
any residual solvent drip out. Dispose of the used solvent properly,
and throw everything else away.
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